from firewall back to pan..was hoping to use white grease or something.
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from firewall back to pan..was hoping to use white grease or something.
Stuff some grease in the tube, be sure to have a good size rag at the gas pedal end and blow in a BIT of compressed air into the tube a Bit at a time until you have grease at the pedal end.....
tie a long piece of string to the end (carb end) and pull it back under the car, then load up the tube with lubricant of choice (insert witty comment here) and pull the string (carb) back - pulling the grease / KY with it.
I shoved a polyethylene tubing in the tube.
Kano Labs has a product called "Gearope" especially for cables. Unsure of how to apply (think WD-40-style applicator tube or equiv.); perhaps a little creativity here! Also, they indicate a no-cost trial offer (don't believe a purchase is req'd). May be too low a viscosity for your needs but, if free, can't really lose.
Add: General cabling issues-saw this:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/nylaflow.php
Add: General cabling issues-saw this:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/nylaflow.php
Just a thought... it only takes a couple of minutes to pull a cable you don't have to loosen the pedal assembly to do so.
I have a needle-point grease gun tip for use in Universal joints and such (shows how long I've been messing with this stuff). That tip, on the end of a flexible grease gun hose, is placed into the accelerator cable tube at the front (the end protrudes from the tunnel just behind the pedals) and pushed gently so that it sort-of seals the end of the tube, then pump grease into the tube until it comes out the back end (15-20 strokes). Lube it once every five years or so.
Those tips are available from Carquest, JC Whitney and NAPA, maybe Autozone and Advance, too. It has a nipple on the back to plug into a normal grease gun end, and the working end is a needle (3/16" dia). Cost is under $10 bucks.
gn
Those tips are available from Carquest, JC Whitney and NAPA, maybe Autozone and Advance, too. It has a nipple on the back to plug into a normal grease gun end, and the working end is a needle (3/16" dia). Cost is under $10 bucks.
gn
Go to a bicycle shop and by a bicycle chain dry lube such as White Lightning. It comes in a bottle with a small tip on the end that lets you drip, drip it into place.
Rag on the low end, dribble the lube and work the cable. Then move onto compressed air and continue. When it comes out the other end, you're done.
Bicycle dry-lube is viscous enough to travel through the cable but has a fair amount of paraffin in it. Collects very little dirt at the exposed ends. The paraffin tends to keep it in place inside of the sheath. Don't forget to lube any ball and socket joints.
angela
Rag on the low end, dribble the lube and work the cable. Then move onto compressed air and continue. When it comes out the other end, you're done.
Bicycle dry-lube is viscous enough to travel through the cable but has a fair amount of paraffin in it. Collects very little dirt at the exposed ends. The paraffin tends to keep it in place inside of the sheath. Don't forget to lube any ball and socket joints.
angela
Anyone know if they still make DrySlide? It is a moly-disulfide lubricant quite popular with motorcycles. Comes in a squeeze bottle with a hyperdermic needle attachment. Squeeze out the stuff onto a cable and it easily flows the length of the cable (by gravity). The dispersant evaporates and you're left with a "dry lube" which lasts for years. I still have an old bottle in the garage, but the newer bikes come with sealed cables that don't seem to fail anymore.
I was at my local VW parts store and they had white lithium grease in an aerosol can like wd40. It was a little pricey but that could work also.
Dave
Dave