anyone running 2 oil coolers

where did u locate them and what brand/model did u use, fans?

We run dual coolers on occasion. Always with fans. I only use Setrab brand oil coolers.
When we run dual coolers, we also run dual thermostatic switches.
For us we hang them in the rear, under the "back seat" area. Not sure what space is on your car.

According to your profile, you only have a 1915cc in there - it shouldn't be running hot. (are the heat shields installed below the engine?)

If you feel that it needs a second oil cooler because it is running hot, then you should check it with a calibrated dip stick thermometer to see what temperature it really is running at.

If it really IS running hot (over 225F consistently) then you probably have something seriously awry going on that should be addressed before you band-aid it with a second oil cooler. You may cool the oil and end up cooking the heads.

Two 16 pass Derale coolers with fans behind the front horn grilles.

Bob's new motor: It's a 2387!

Oh.....THAT explains it! A MONSTER Motor!!

OK, in that case, sounds like a pair of coolers mounted up front might be the best way to go for that Bad Boy.....Fan assist them no matter where you place them, but get as much air flow through them as you can.

Get some decent-sized coolers, too...the big Setrab or a pair of 16-pass DeRales should do it. Either of those would work up over the transmission if you can duct fresh air up to them and exhaust the heat out efficiently.

? on front mounted oil coolers. I had always thought that the oil pressure drop from engine in rear to cooler in the front was too great for even the supposedly high performance Melling oil pumps. Then there's the lag in build up of oil pressure and possible drain back of oil (and where extra oil would go - like out push rod tubes to the heads). Would also thin one would use copper lines to further dissapate heat vice rubber hose. I know racing 911's have coolers in front but they are dry sump engines - with racing oil pumps. Seems oil starvation or low pressure would quickly destroy and air cooled engine. Is this an urban legend or something to be concerned with?

Wolfie:

All Urban legend.

Coolers up front work just fine with a Melling or Berg pump (in my experience) and probably a number of others built to tight specs. It's important to run a deep sump so you'll have a decent reserve for the pump inlet (especially on hard cornering) but that's easy.

You're not building a head of oil by pumping it up any height, all you're doing is moving it around a loop at roughly the same height.

I've seen guys in 356's and some 911's run copper pipe front to back in the central tunnel and then put fittings on each end, supposedly to reduce the fluid resistance within the pipes, but then seen others running braided teflon hoses the whole length of the circuit. Both seem to work, so whatever floats your boat. I would not recommend running oil lines under the tunnel under the car - had some bad (and very expensive) experience doing that once, til I learned...

BTW: Oil pressure (measured at the end of the oil gallery, just like on our engines) comes up in 1 - 5 seconds, depending on outside temp and viscosity of the oil, so that's not a problem.

Even more important than cooling the oil with that size engine is getting GOBS of air into the fan inlet to cool the cylinders, too.

You should probably contact Paul Harford to see what he had to do on his moosey engine to cool it.....

gn

Thanks for the info Gordon. I've tossed around the idea of running a stock dog house oil cooler and a front cooler for extended highway use.
Ron

Ron O:

Here's an article I wrote showing how I mounted my cooler in the Driver's rear wheel well:

http://www.speedstershop.com/viewtopic.php?t=349

gn

>semi-hijack alert<


Gordon,

Got a tips on a means of lowering the oil pressure on start-up and then letting it come back up as operating temps return to normal? We have a Berg pressure relief pump cover in place, but still peg the gauge on start-up and grenade the filters.

Tried the higher pressure filters, but still have a occasional problem. I thought that an aluminum filter cover might act as a girdle, but the filters are letting go at the crimped seam.

Would a longer, more circuitous oil line line to the cooler and back help? We always prime the engine before lighting it up, so initial oil starvation wouldn't be an issue at all.

Any help?

Thanks.

Longer oil lines won't help - oil doesn't compress, so while you might expand the oil lines a little, they're probably rated for 600 lbs. and should send that pressure right along to the filter.

I'm surprised if the Berg cover is letting the line pressure get over 125 lbs. That's where they're supposed to cap the pressure to the outlet. You might give the Berg boys a call and tell'em what's happening and see if they'll send you another (and tested) cover.

Lastly, you shouldn't be seeing anything more than 200 lbs. pressure during cold startup in the Summer, especially if you're running 40wt or under oil visc., and I wouldn't run anything over 30wt in the Winter, anyway. Maybe you're running weaker filters? Try a Wix/NAPA 51515.

gn

Gordon is correct regarding the pressure at the filter. He recommended a WIX 51515 Add the letter "R" to end of that number to read WIX 51515R
(WIX makes filters for NAPA and in this case, both NAPA uses the WIX part number)

Actually the pressure rated filter is the 51515R

Thanks guys ! ! We were using the high performance filters meant for 5 liter Mustangs, probably be better to give the one that you're recommending a try.

TC: Those Mustang filters are rated for something like 85psi with a safety of 25 lbs., so putting 125+ through them makes them balloon and pop (ask me how I know).

Now that I'm back in New England, I'll try to get over to Kingston and see ya!

Thanks, Larry, for the "R" on the Wix. (still recovering from two days in the saddle driving North). Those are great filters and not all that pricey, either.

gn