Given the cost and availability of Dell 45's I am considering FI for my new engine. Still trying to find the best way to approach the hardware side but Megasquirt seems the logical ECU to use. It can do fuel only or both fuel and ignition.
Was considering using the 009 for spark as in interim step, but would love if someone offered a plug and play DYI kit for ignition control. Better yet a shopping list using Jap parts so I can source them here in Thailand as a Ford is just not on - Mazada might be though
Soooooooo, as Gordon asks, "can someone that has done this please post a DYI shopping list of the required parts"
For those interested in Megasquirt for fuel, spark, or both, go to www.megasquirt.info. On that site, scroll down the left index to MegaSquirt-II/Ignition and click on the Ford Edis link. The system is explained in detail there and contains a link to Boost Engineering, which provides all of the parts required from a donor car. For our 4 cylinder cars, the ignition system is provided from early 1990s Ford Escorts.
I purchased my parts from Boost Engineering several years ago, and the cost in 2006 for the toothed wheel, pickup, coil pack and control unit was $110.00. Bound to be a little more than that today.
For MegaSquirt-II and the other ECUs, they can be purchased as completed units or as DIY solder together. I had never soldered on a printed circuit board before, but decided to take the plunge. I like learning new skills and the ECU worked fine upon completion. The great benefit is that if something should ever go wrong with my unit, I now have the skills to troubleshoot the system. The MegaSquirt site also has links to individuals who will troubleshoot the ECU for a small fee. Having said all of this, if I had it to do over again, I would just buy a completed ECU since they cost very little more than the bag of parts.
Once you have your Edis ignition system installed and mapped, you can then sit by the fire the next winter and ponder how to install the fuel system. This is more daunting, but doable for anyone with some fab skills. For me, the hard part was trying to understand the concepts necessary to make the adjustments in some of the bins. Since I installed my system in 2006, the MegaSquirt gurus have added some interface programs that are of great value in doing the fuel mapping for you. Also, the forums are filled with some wonderful people willing to answer your questions.
It is madness, but many speedster builders fit right in with this upgrade.
I have kept a detailed list of parts and their costs to complete both the fuel and spark MegaSquirt install if anyone is interested.
I purchased my parts from Boost Engineering several years ago, and the cost in 2006 for the toothed wheel, pickup, coil pack and control unit was $110.00. Bound to be a little more than that today.
For MegaSquirt-II and the other ECUs, they can be purchased as completed units or as DIY solder together. I had never soldered on a printed circuit board before, but decided to take the plunge. I like learning new skills and the ECU worked fine upon completion. The great benefit is that if something should ever go wrong with my unit, I now have the skills to troubleshoot the system. The MegaSquirt site also has links to individuals who will troubleshoot the ECU for a small fee. Having said all of this, if I had it to do over again, I would just buy a completed ECU since they cost very little more than the bag of parts.
Once you have your Edis ignition system installed and mapped, you can then sit by the fire the next winter and ponder how to install the fuel system. This is more daunting, but doable for anyone with some fab skills. For me, the hard part was trying to understand the concepts necessary to make the adjustments in some of the bins. Since I installed my system in 2006, the MegaSquirt gurus have added some interface programs that are of great value in doing the fuel mapping for you. Also, the forums are filled with some wonderful people willing to answer your questions.
It is madness, but many speedster builders fit right in with this upgrade.
I have kept a detailed list of parts and their costs to complete both the fuel and spark MegaSquirt install if anyone is interested.
Bob, I thought that was what I just gave, a shopping list. Mine is for ignition only, if you're looking for EFI help I would suggest you start another thread. Also, you can click on the link in the fourth post from the top. All the info you may need is there, as well as a forum with plenty of info. I am DannyP over there.
I have soldered up one Megajolt, and will be purchasing at least one other soon, when M2 is out for real. That one eliminates the EDIS box. I made a harness for myself, plus one other for a friend.
I would be happy to assist anyone seriously interested in doing Megajolt ignition, the EFI I am not knowledgeable enough.
If you wait for M2, the only parts you'll need other than the M2 unit will be a coilpack or coil-on-plug(aftermarket easy), a VR sensor and wheel(also available aftermarket), and maybe a TPS, easy to grab at a junkyard or parts place.
I hope that Brent has the M2 available soon, I can't wait to get one(or two) for my twin-plug 911 motor I am building.
I have soldered up one Megajolt, and will be purchasing at least one other soon, when M2 is out for real. That one eliminates the EDIS box. I made a harness for myself, plus one other for a friend.
I would be happy to assist anyone seriously interested in doing Megajolt ignition, the EFI I am not knowledgeable enough.
If you wait for M2, the only parts you'll need other than the M2 unit will be a coilpack or coil-on-plug(aftermarket easy), a VR sensor and wheel(also available aftermarket), and maybe a TPS, easy to grab at a junkyard or parts place.
I hope that Brent has the M2 available soon, I can't wait to get one(or two) for my twin-plug 911 motor I am building.
Another ignition system I'm looking at is the DIS4 by Compu-tronix
http://www.compu-tronix.com/DIS4009.htm
The DIS4 replaces the 009 distributor with a electronic one.
I like it because it looks easy to install (important to someone with my limited mechanical stills). I don't like the price: $400 or $500 with a rev limiter, but it's close to the Megajolt lite Jr. kit ($416.99). I believe Jake is doing some testing with the DIS4 Dual ignition model.
Ron
http://www.compu-tronix.com/DIS4009.htm
The DIS4 replaces the 009 distributor with a electronic one.
I like it because it looks easy to install (important to someone with my limited mechanical stills). I don't like the price: $400 or $500 with a rev limiter, but it's close to the Megajolt lite Jr. kit ($416.99). I believe Jake is doing some testing with the DIS4 Dual ignition model.
Ron
If you're staying with a distributor-based system, I honestly think the Pertronix is the best bang for the buck. Much less than a comparable MSD or Computronix, and all the folks who have had experience with them that I have talked to love 'em.
Ron, who quoted you over 400 for a Megajolt? That is pretty greedy, since you can buy a kit for 90 bucks, and probably get all the EDIS parts for way less than $100. A little machine work, soldering, and done. NO WAY it would be more than 300 if you paid someone to do it all for you. Hell, send me your crank pulley and wire lengths, I'll build you one, test it and load it with a map for $300 American!
http://www.autosportlabs.com/megajolt-lite-build-yourself-p-39.html
http://www.autosportlabs.com/megajolt-lite-build-yourself-p-39.html
Now you've got me thinking of replacing my HPV-1 system with something like the Megajolt...even before I use the HPV-1. The HPV-1 is not computer programable which would seem to make the MJ system more tunable. Any other thoughts? I suppose I could still use my trigger wheel and pickup that I already have installed, right?
You probably know this but it's worth repeating::
If you remove your distributor to use a crankfire ignition then it's imperative that you also remove the distributor drive gear.
When you do, make sure you also remove the shims located under the gear.
You'll need a pair of "expanding pliers" to be able to grip the inside of the drive notch that is milled into the gear. When you grip the gear, pull up while gently turning the gear. (It has a spiral cut gear and needs to be rotated slightly to remove)
If you don't remove the gear, then it will rotate and eventually drive itself "up" and break either the "driven gear" (distributor drive) or the "drive" gear on the end of the crankshaft.
If you remove your distributor to use a crankfire ignition then it's imperative that you also remove the distributor drive gear.
When you do, make sure you also remove the shims located under the gear.
You'll need a pair of "expanding pliers" to be able to grip the inside of the drive notch that is milled into the gear. When you grip the gear, pull up while gently turning the gear. (It has a spiral cut gear and needs to be rotated slightly to remove)
If you don't remove the gear, then it will rotate and eventually drive itself "up" and break either the "driven gear" (distributor drive) or the "drive" gear on the end of the crankshaft.
if you are considering megajolt - check out my site. i documented it all in pictures.
megajolt build, wiring, edis, vr, vr mount, trigger wheel, etc
megajolt build, wiring, edis, vr, vr mount, trigger wheel, etc
Yes, 2 shims. I've always had luck getting the drive gear out with expanding pliers but that's unimportant, the important thing is that you got the gear and shims out of the engine case.
Larry, two washers, and only two, right? I needed the special puller for VW, borrowed it luckily. My dist. drive wouldn't move without it.
Brian, only if you have the 36-1 wheel. I think M2 will support others though. Brent is working on the M2, housing is done, and I am pretty sure he is testing the board for heat/stress/interference etc.
My build is documented at autosportlabs.com in the community tab under "powered by Megajolt" section. Mine is under Porsche 550 Spyder replica, on page 2 of the section.
Brian, only if you have the 36-1 wheel. I think M2 will support others though. Brent is working on the M2, housing is done, and I am pretty sure he is testing the board for heat/stress/interference etc.
My build is documented at autosportlabs.com in the community tab under "powered by Megajolt" section. Mine is under Porsche 550 Spyder replica, on page 2 of the section.
Daniel, I took the price off of Boost's website (see my first post).
I'll switch to crank fire only if the switch is fairly straightforward (for me). As soon as I have to start fabricating parts I'm hooped. I'll pay more for a kit, if it makes the install easier.
Ron
I'll switch to crank fire only if the switch is fairly straightforward (for me). As soon as I have to start fabricating parts I'm hooped. I'll pay more for a kit, if it makes the install easier.
Ron
My wheels are 60-2 so I guess I wait.
Danny, as I mentioned, most distributors have 2 shims. If you ever have to remove a distriutor gear again, rotate the engine slightly clock/counter clock wise ever so slightly while pulling up of the distributor gear with expanding pliers.
Danny,
Are you still using the 911 fan shroud? Which version do you have? How does it do regarding cooling? I keep hearing about how badly they cool, but I know your car has been running well for a long time, so I figured you were the right person to solicit for information. I have a pent roof block with also high decks so many of the conventional shrouds do not fit well....requires a lot of carving of the shroud as well as the cylinder tins, and my DTM does not fit under the rear engine cover of my Speedster...fit ok on the Spyder, just not on this car....
Are you still using the 911 fan shroud? Which version do you have? How does it do regarding cooling? I keep hearing about how badly they cool, but I know your car has been running well for a long time, so I figured you were the right person to solicit for information. I have a pent roof block with also high decks so many of the conventional shrouds do not fit well....requires a lot of carving of the shroud as well as the cylinder tins, and my DTM does not fit under the rear engine cover of my Speedster...fit ok on the Spyder, just not on this car....
Jim, it cools just fine underway and on any normal day. I have an early 11 blade fan, 55 amp alternator, one wired.
Idling on a humid, hot day, the cylinder head temps go way up until the engine is kept above 2K for a while.
Idling on a humid, hot day, the cylinder head temps go way up until the engine is kept above 2K for a while.
Boost are selling EDIS-4 kits on EBay right now for 70.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-EDIS4-EDIS-4-module-coil-36-1-wheel-vr-sensor_W0QQitemZ300388409617QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45f08b6111
I bought one and am going to use it on the now motor I am building in conjunction with Megasquirt FI. The ignition looks easy enough and sounds almost too simple. I wonder if the trigger wheel would be nicer on the rear of the pulley, and how to keep the VR sensor out of harms way if the belt is thrown
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-EDIS4-EDIS-4-module-coil-36-1-wheel-vr-sensor_W0QQitemZ300388409617QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45f08b6111
I bought one and am going to use it on the now motor I am building in conjunction with Megasquirt FI. The ignition looks easy enough and sounds almost too simple. I wonder if the trigger wheel would be nicer on the rear of the pulley, and how to keep the VR sensor out of harms way if the belt is thrown
Danny, thanks for the information. It sounds like I had best avoid the Porsche style shroud. I have only had one engine with it (engine I got from RescueDiver, wonder where he is today?) and I replaced it with the DTM immediately. Given the summer temps in Houston and slow moving traffic on ocassion it sounds like I need more cooling....sorry for the thread drift guys, back to crank fired discussions.....