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Hi all,
I am in the process of purchasing an Apal Speedster replica located here in Perth, Western Australia.
The car is a LHD model and I am contemplating a conversion to RHD. It appears to have post-69 beetle mechanicals (IRS, disc brakes etc).
I can't find much on the web about these cars other than they were constructed in Belgium, which I believe to be a European country.
Does anyone know when they were constructed, what the "speedster replica community" thinks about their standard of construction and if anyone has experience in such a conversion to RHD and any tips ?
Thanks in anticipation.
(Will post pics when I take delivery).

Phillip
1957 Apal(Speedster)
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Hi all,
I am in the process of purchasing an Apal Speedster replica located here in Perth, Western Australia.
The car is a LHD model and I am contemplating a conversion to RHD. It appears to have post-69 beetle mechanicals (IRS, disc brakes etc).
I can't find much on the web about these cars other than they were constructed in Belgium, which I believe to be a European country.
Does anyone know when they were constructed, what the "speedster replica community" thinks about their standard of construction and if anyone has experience in such a conversion to RHD and any tips ?
Thanks in anticipation.
(Will post pics when I take delivery).

Phillip
Hi Phillip,

I built an Apal many moons ago (ca. 1984). Picked the kit up in Blegny and even stayed at Mr. Perrys private house for a few days whilst he shortened my VW pan for me.

Kit was well made but is not quite correct at the rear to take a Bug air filter housing of all things! It was necessary for legislation in Germany apparently.

Most have beehive style rear lights that have been stood vertical, this was also for legislation. I cut those bits out and used teardrop rear lights, looks more authentic.

LHD to RHD can be done on existing pan or swop the pan for a RHD one (which needs to be shortened of course). If your pan is rust free then have it converted it's not too dificult.

Feel free to ask if you want any more info.

Nick
That is a rather straigh forward conversion you will begin with the beam. You flip the steering knuckle on the box and the tie rods.

Duplicate the knotch on the beam on the opposite side of beam measuring several times that the box lockes into. before spot welding it in then move the damper mount to the other side a reweld in on. And finally the steering stop has to be reversed to the other side you may have to refab that from scratch.

BUT! Thats the beam. I did a dune buggy that way..

Now your dash and instruments.. I guess you will have to mach up in cardboard/duct-tape and make a new fibeglass dash in reverse, That will be the hard messy part, then re glass it into the body after removing the old dash with a cut off wheel and feathering the edges for reattachment.

It will be a slow going job But a first rate job can be done at home..

The floor petals is another problem ..Best go hydrolic, the tunnel pipes for the clutch and throttle would be to hard for most to undertake the reversial process. I have had the bottom of a tunnel open durning a build , I drilled it off to re work it for the Audi fully automatic . If you have a lift near by and a few weeks you could reverse even that ,but its hard!! The Vw petals were made so they can be reversed .Knock out the dowel pins and flip everything ..(I think) Best just try that before you start the rest. On a old set.

Rh drives are not that commom around here. But You can do it .Just plan it well. and it will turn out perfect.
NO NO the new 16 gal tank at CIP-1 will work as is. IT HAS THE PLACES ALREADY..

Wolfgang is right about one thing it would be easyer to sell it now.

If I were you , I'd sell it and have one built the way I want it. Engine, Body color, and Ulpholstery, R.H. drive ,,Just like you want it.

And be done with all the headaches. It is a pretty big job.
Thanks Everyone,
I am proceding with the purchase.
Reasons being:
1).It's already registered locally (can be a difficult thing to do with replicas).
2).It's relatively cheap (A$26,000).
3).I have located a master German mechanic with 30 years experience in VWs and Porsches (Detlef @Swan Porsche)who has inspected the car and assured me the mechanical side is straightforward and that he can do a reversal of the dash (wont have two instrument pods-just one-original reversed).
4). Car has been built to a professional-looking standard (demisters, heater fan etc)
I just need to source some original style 356 green gauges and RHD pedal set.
I may be naive but I'm keen !

Phillip
Hi Philip,

CIP1, Parts supplier http://www2.cip1.com/

I'm in the UK with a LHD Speedster and briefly considered a conversion....But then, decided it was too much hassle. Being close to Europe means that LHD will be a bonus at sale time.

I also have an original LHD Fiat 500, and to be honest the steering wheel on the wrong side is not a problem at all, takes 5 mins to get used to it.

Cheers
Gerry
I realy like the backlited ones that Kirk Duncan sells at Vintage Speedster they are nicely lighted..Only problem is the inner werks are cheap junk and they would have to go straight to Hollywood Speedometer to be re worked with real German inners.


And If I get new ones again thats what will be done. reguardless of the cost..
Phil I'm over in Brisbane, building a speedster.... just had it painted last week and should have it on the road shortly, re the conversion, cant you just get parts from a RHD bug, there every where

The Rego is a big issue....I was told once you shorten the chassis you have to conform with current ADR's, dam near impossible, so I registered the VW before I started the project... a bit naughty but what can do, oh, I have a WRX engine fitted
Regards Bill
Hi all the steering parts will move over to the righthand side except for 3 bits. the drop arm needs to be changed to a rhd one as it is a mirror image (to do with the ackerman principle)
the other is the mount for the steering damper it needs to be cut from the beam and re welded to the other side. if the beam is a balljoint one you will also need to move the steering stop (cut off and re weld to the other side.
the pan will have to have a hole cut into the tunnel opposite the left hand one in order for the pedal assembly to pas through you will also need to weld in two captive nuts. there is a pedal support plate welded to the floor on RHD cars and this could be fabricated from flat bar. the master cylinder hole needs to be moved over but it is a case of drilling the holes in the right places. the throttle pedal needs to have a bracket welded to the floor as well. be aware that vwchanged the position of the clutch tube during the early sixties and the appropriate year of pedal assembly needs to interchange.
I am currently building a coupe using a speedster as the base and will be removing the rhd dash in the next couple of weeks. You are welcome to it if you pay for the postage from South Africa. It is brand ne and havent been drilled or cut. I do not think it will be cheap to ship it though
regards
Armand
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