Assembly notes and pictures on my CMC Speedster

George - I found these shots of the front end support when I was looking for butt sag repair pictures.  Hope they help.  Simple angle iron welded up.

 

 

 

Thanks for the pictures of the front body support. I bought some 3/16 inch thick angle iron today and only need to cut it , weld on small pieces on the ends, then wait until I have my speedster body on the chassis, to figure out those small pieces between upper and lower angle iron.

Looks simple to make my own.

On the question about the thin fiberglass panels adding to the strength of the front body, I went into my Bosch Engineering guide, put out by the Society of Auto Engineers and read about strength of fiberglass, under various uses. They really do not like fiberglass , except for sprayed on thick stuff in molds. Any fiberglass which is less than 1/4 inch thick has very little strength and will flex and bend and not add to the support of the body front, as one person thought. Blame the SAE for this information, not me. Vibration is also a key factor in how fiberglass holds up on vehicles. In boats, there is a lot of added braces with fiberglass covering those braces. Also, the stuff is thicker on boats, than we have on our speedster bodies.

On the subject of reinforcement on the rear of the body, again, they added the fiberglass panels to help keep dirt and water off the electrical items, found on the rear of the car, like reverse light, license plate lights, tail lights. There is very little to no added reinforcement to the body up front or in the rear, but those panels do a good job of keeping water and dirt out of the body and interior. So, they are important to use.

I realize others know some or all what I post. But, every now and then, someone writes that what I said made sense and made working on their car easier. I am all about doing things easier.

Interesting about the photo process. I had never heard of Grease Pencil and most people at the various hardware stores, where they sell them , had no idea what I was asking for. I should have asked you guys, first. See, I am learning.

Since the owners all have either a speedster or 550, this web site has lots of good knowledge about what I am building and I have often thanked people, when my "feelings" were not hurting. I need to ask more often, before hitting my head against a brick wall, trying to figure out things, for myself.

Let me tell something which most will find hard to believe. Every VW engine I have built over the past 40 years only comes in second place to the birth of my human children. I get very passionate about my engine work. Very passionate. Nothing is perfect, but I build as perfect an engine, as possible. When anyone insults my engines or my work, it is like you insulted my own human children. Can anyone relate to this comment ? I am sure, my engines will be around, after I die. Some of the restored cars I have done will outlast me. It's a weird thing to consider.

It's hard being Green ---said Kermit Frog.

Five hours non-stop work to install the deck lid.  The assembly manual wrote there are plastic brackets which the aluminum deck lid hinges pivot on, but none were included with my purchased parts.  I made the firewall brackets for the deck lid out of 1.5 inch angle iron.  Should last forever.  Cut the hole out for the grille.  Then, black paint on underside.  Then, hours to put the latch stud in position and the deck lid latch. 

 

I wish I knew how old this CMC/Fiberfab is.  The body molded metal/fiberglass where the deck lid latch mounts, is thicker than what the assembly manual indicated.  About one inch thick for where one cuts the two inch circle hole to access the two 3/8 inch bolts which hold on the deck lid latch. But, the deck lid was molded off measurements.  And, the position of the latch body mount area was also molded off center, causing me a headache. 

 

The tube, which the deck lid pull cable goes through is copper tubing.  Had to clean it out and run universal "choke" cable I bought from O'Reilly Auto Parts through that tube.  I used two flat fender washers, 5/16 hole, thin ones, but drilled them out to fit the 3/8 size needed for the pull end of the deck lid release cable. 

 

So, now, the deck lid opens and closes and latches.  Problem, when I pull on the deck lid cable to open up the deck lid, said deck lid does not pop up.  I find pulling the release cable and using a small Vise Grip pliers hold that cable back, then I can pull up the deck lid.  But, am going to try adding a small 10 inch long hydraulic rear door shock, like found on SUV's.  IF I get the deck lid shock installed correctly, that might push the light weight deck lid, up and open, once the release cable is pulled.  This would be cool, if I engineer it correctly. 

 

The range of operation for the deck lid shock is only three inches, so where it is mounted is critical.  I found the hardware store PIN, which holds the deck lid open, if one does not have the small hyd. cylinder installed.  I see, it is commonly used to safety lock drawers or doors, keeping children out of damage.  Easy to find at most hardware stores, if you need some nice way to hold open your deck lid. 

 

So, the adventure continues.  Since I sold my nice looking 1641cc, I am going to build another one and having stock heads reworked.  Also, waiting on Gordons' nice 914 Seats, Porsche gauges still owned me by the seller, dual 34mm ICT's from Clip1, and parts for windshield and glass from Beck.  It's only money !  My pocket 

wallet is hurting.   

 

Rain, rain , rain.  We are really getting too much rain.  Galveston streets were all flooded on Tuesday, Sept. 1,2015.  I had a Doctor's appointment and barely got out of that city without flooding out my sedan car. 

 

One last fabrication.  I looked at Gordon's photos of his front body brace.  Did my own, not welded, but using grade eight 1/4 bolts to hold the angle iron pieces together.  Only need to mount the body to figure out the needed length of two small pieces, to connect top and bottom brackets.  Mine look nicer and painted with rust preventive paint.  That brace or bracket will add needed support to the front body section. 

 

Did I mention I sanded all the body frame and painted it with professional grade gloss black ?  Well, I did.  I want this speedster to last many years.   

 

Next, front hood mounting and I hope the fiberglass was molded better than the deck lid and fiberglass mounting pad for that rear latch.  The lower hood latch is already installed on the body, so one less challenge. The fiberglass on this body is very thick and I guess, that is a good thing. 

Here's an idea for you:

 

https://www.speedsterowners.com...tic-rear-deck-opener

Thank you for the link. The strut the person used is longer and takes up too much space, but the product does work. A customer of mine came in with his speedster and might have had two small struts to hold open his deck lid and I wished I had taken a photo of his set up. So, now, know of at least two ways to get the deck lid to pop up on it's own and stay up, without the PIN.

I am opting for the smaller device and only 10 inches long and has a three inch movement and 20 pounds pressure. This one is larger than the two my customer had on his speedster, yet, smaller than the one in the 2012 video. Maybe, a compromise and I can buy it, mount it, without drilling more holes and see if my own engineering works.

So, it's trial and error time, to find one single smaller one, with correct mounting position which will hold up the deck lid. Mostly, I need the deck lid to at least POP up, once I pull on the release cable. I don't have a problem with the PIN . But, video did mention that in case of a fire, you cannot hold the deck lid up and use the fire extinguisher at the same time.

VW used a spring on their front hood release and a spring to hold the deck lid open, but manually, one had to lift up the deck lid. On the hood, also manually and more springs to hold that heavy metal hood up. Hmmm, wonder if the front hood VW engineering might work on the speedster ?

If you want the lid to pop up a bit, tack weld a horizontal tab to the side of the latch housing adding a dime size spring that will push against the underside of the deck lid...

 

You can use a small electric liner actuator, ($29 on eBay) mount that vertically to the 2 x 2 just below the latch, you extend the piston by adding a  1/4" rod and bending it 90 degrees so that it slips into the deck lid where the 1/4 latch rod would normally go.

 This does two things, allows for opening the deck lid an inch or so on very hot days and when it is lowered, the motor is some-what more secure against prying fingers. Todd E. and I have done this and it works great

Regretfully folks have recently had engine fires --- fighting it is greatly hampered if engine lid is stuck or too hot to open.  At least if it pops open a bit and you have a fire extinguished, you have a fighting chance.

Should a helping sole arrive in the moment of need... promptly tackle him so that you protect him from possible harm... then, review your insurance policy ~

 

Not being around many speedsters, I do not know the track record on fires. On Beetles, I have seen many, range from only carb and some wires burned to the entire car burned to the ground. The number one cause is someone not using good fuel hose or the fuel hose is old and brittle on the ends. Once the end of the fuel hose starts to crack ( Gates suggest replacing rubber parts every two years) then gas can leak out and on our VW engines, that means onto a 200 degree engine with distributor spark close and exhaust very close. I would guess the gas ignites on the 300 to 350 degree exhaust pipes.

I have always carried a fire extinguisher in my cars. Once, almost burned down my Corvette while working on it, in the garage, due to being stupid. We had the engine out, car jacked up a little bit, but open gas lines. Welding about 20 feet away, with arc welder, seemed far enough . We lowered the front of the car, forgetting the gas line was not plugged, gas pours out and boom, the welding sparks ignite it , so now there is gasoline pouring from the gas line , burning under the front of the Corvette. I had and the garage I was at, had fire extinguishers, so we saved the car. It burned some of the top paint on the fenders and some wires, nothing more. The fire was so big, next door neighbors saw flames and called the fire department, but we had it out, before they arrived. Since then, carry good charged up fire extinguisher and you never know. Might save someone's life, on the side of the highway, one day.

I completely agree, having the deck lid open any amount might save the car, due to fire. See my creation in my CMC Assembly build up topic for what I came up with, for $2.00. Under my posted george4888.

Not finished , so carry no insurance. It is not a car, yet. Just parts. I have six fire extinguishers in my shop, all recharged each year. At night, there is zero electric power on, in the shop. I mean zero. The number one cause of house fires and commercial fires is due to faulty wiring. No electricity, no problems at night. Trash is removed several times a day, certainly at the end of the work day. No gasoline stored inside. No water heater in shop/garage. No wash or dryer machines. Three smoke detectors in shop. I live next door and would hear them, more so, if all three are making noise.

Here is my $2.00 cost deck lid spring set up.  I used one used hood support spring , complete from any 1964 to 1979 Standard Beetle.  Maybe, the ones from the Super Beetle will also work this way.  The only change to the VW parts was I cut about one to two inches out of the spring you see. Installed without drilling more holes in my already hole ridden CMC, under constructions.  I have plenty of these laying around my VW shop, but think if someone wants to try this approach, for one or two dollars, some junk yard should sell you one of the supports. They bolt on the car, so bring a small flat screwdriver to remove one external clip and a 13mm socket or wrench to remove the two bolts, holding the assembly to the hood.  Most hoods are in bad shape or missing, but they leave the hood supports on junked out cars, hood or no hood. 

 

The jury is out, until I put the body on the floor pan and install the engine, but think I have needed clearance, as I kept the spring as close as possible to the deck lid aluminum support.  Besides almost no cost, you can pull the deck lid release cable and as one picture shows how open the spring pops up the deck lid.  Ready for fire problems.  Or, no fire, then use the PIN and that pushes the deck lid up as much as possible, until it hits the body.

 

You know this VW parts is perhaps 40 years old.  I guess it will outlast me.  Oh, besides the shortened spring, had to enlarge one hole slightly on the end of the spring assembly.  Spring is preloaded on the stock set up.  I only used a very slight preload on my set up, just enough to prevent noise of loose parts.  Time to install and modify the stock hood spring was about two hours.  Trial and error to clear the aluminum support and the body.  The brackets with 1/4 holes in them were some scrap metal pieces I had laying in my junk collection.  Some welding shop probably has some small pieces they will give you. Used 1/8inch thick, 3/4 inch, wide flat bar.  About six inch long piece.  I had to buy the 1/4 inch bolts, washers and nuts. 

I would like to shot the person who did not think to drill the four holes in the cross bar, located under the speedster dash.  This is on my CMC/Fiberfab project, doing a complete, ground up , assembly.  The hood support brackets bolt to the under dash cross beam or bar.  With the fiberglass body and dash surrounding the cross beam, the only way one can drill the needed four 5/16 inch holes to bolt the hood support bracket onto said beam is by drilling upward, which through 1/8 old steel , two layers, is not easy. Four holes had to be drilled up, into the two layers of metal. The cross beam is 2X2 square steel tubing, on my speedster.  Very tricky work. 

 

And, you have to figure out where the predrilled holes are located, which you cannot see, which are in the brackets to be bolted on the cross bar. The T looking brackets for the hood aluminum supports are bolted to the top of that cross beam, so they did have pre-drilled holes, but impossible to see them, up under the dash, on top of that cross beam.   

 

Not fun doing that part of the assembly, but now, hood is on and lined up and only need to attach the end of the hood release pull cable and it should work.  I have finished all the hood area, drilled the drain holes and holes for battery tie downs and put on the hood support rod and still need to mount the brake fluid reservoir, but don't see any problems with that item. 

 

I would guess anyone buying a new speedster with a custom made frame ( chassis) that hopefully ,  the manufacturer drills all needed holes in the frame for the various needed mounting brackets.   Or, the frame is made where one can drill out the needed bolt holes, then drop the body over the frame. 

 

Another interesting and challenging job was cutting a 1X5 inch slot in the end of the hood for access to the hardware, to attach the hood latch.  I found working with long needle nose pliers helped to hold the washer, lock washer and nut, inside that slotted access hole.  I got luck and lined up the hood latch just right. Not in the instructions I have, was how to go up through the lower hood receiver latch and use a marking pen, to mark where the PIN on the upper latch part is. That gives you a good mark to line up the upper latch parts, which then you need to drill three holes and bolt on that part.  Got it right ! 

 

I think I will have the body parts all assembled on it, and next is mating the body with the chassis.  Which I think will be easier than drilling those four holes in the cross beam.  This body has been abused, though never assembled.  I will have a lot of work ahead of me, doing fiberglass repairs, filling in cut holes, someone did for the roll bar and closing in too big of openings in various places. Then, there is the windshield installation, all the interior parts and wiring.  Lots of work ahead of me.  But, it is fun to see results as I finish what they show on each page of the assembly manual.    

I think the word should have been "shoot" the person who did not drill the four holes.  Grammar and spelling are not my best traits. 

 

Nightly update :  Please read my topic posted on hood latch modification. 

 

Finished off the installation of the hood, battery and pull cable.  Next comes trying to figure out how to install the hood handle as the studs, which are on it, look too short to go through the fiberglass thickness on the hood. 

 

Here are a few pictures which show the latest progress and details. Please note I am going for "good" compared to perfect results as working with un-perfect body and missing parts is a challenge.  Of note is the use of a 1/2 inch galvanized conduit pipe clamp, bought from a hardware store and cut and shaped and taped to hold the hood prop rod. I think it looks good.  Next, see the vinyl material used in place of suggested seals around those aluminum hood supports.  Did that to close up some of the gap one sees inside the trunk area.  The enclosed parts have some fiberglass pieces one is supposed to glass on the body, under the dash, but I am leaving those out. Just looks like too much work to fit them and fiberglass them in place.  Impossible to make a water tight seal around the aluminum hood supports, so did use some good weather stripping around the hood/ trunk on the body, so 80% or more of the hood should be sealed, if caught in rain.  The assembly manual does say to drill two "drain" holes by the battery, up front, so the manufacturer must have known it is impossible to keep out 100% of rain water. 

 

Note not using rubber tie downs with hooks on them, as shown in the assembly manual, for the battery .  I went with cheap auto parts universal hold down parts for keeping the battery in place.  Tossed out the cheap piece of metal that came with the hold down kit and used galvanized sewer pipe hanging strap material, the 1.5 inch wide stuff with holes in it, with duct tape wrapped around it, to prevent movement of the battery and no shorting out.  Red duct tape to match the red color of the body.  So clever !   Still the battery seems like it would move forward and rearward, as the car goes bumping along the roads, so put in some wooden pieces to stop that movement.  I am considering making an aluminum support stand, which will fit under the battery and that will look more professional and really hold the battery in place.  Enjoy the photos. 

Anyone know if Santa and his elves work during the summer ?  I need someone to put together all these engine parts.  Just kidding, but neat looking picture.  Add dual 34mm ICT's and tuned exhaust to photo and you have the engine going into my speedster.  It's only time and money, they say.  Can't take it with you . 

 

Don't you just love it, when someone tells you these little engine are simple to work on and should take only a few hours to assemble ? I know, I appreciate their comments. Add time and cost for power coated sheet metal, ceramic coating on exhaust to those "few" hours. Time to install the carbs and set up the carb linkage.   Yes, record time is less than three minutes to pull and install a VW engine.  I do not hold that record time.  My brother could assemble a complete running VW engine in eight hours, but they seldom lasted much longer than the time it took him to build one. 

It's been 15 years but I still remember drilling those front hinge bracket mounting holes!  Definitely not predrilled - assume since body mounting to the steel subframe was not precise from one car to the next.  I used a black plastic ATTWOOD batery box for holding my battery.  It comes with 2 plastic clamps and nylon cinch strap.  Even a little extra room in the box for few tools.

 

Mounting and fiberglassing those hinge boxes looks like real fun.  I do not like applying fiberglass resin upside down.  I suspect in addition to preventing water in cabin they also help with stopping air intrusion. 

 

 

Just tack weld the brackets in place with the hood weather stripping already in place have a helper confirm the 3/16 gaps and lightly push down on the hood to compress the weather strip , tack weld and be done with it in 5 minutes....

For the cowl oval hinge holes, instead of fussing with the fiberglass / composite hinge boxes just glue a piece of black carpet to the inside cowl and cut a slit in it for the hinge movement, this way it doesn't look like a cardiac patch from the trunk side.  

I agree, each fiberglass body will vary from others. On the T metal mounts for the hood supports. I looked again at that arrangement and on mine, as I had to grind away some metal on the mounts, to get them to fit, at all, under the body, I see there is no room for the fiberglass rain or dirt boxes. I had not considered doing fiberglass work upside down. Good point ! Not would not be easy work. So, if I wanted to fight the fiberglass job, the parts have no space to fit between the T mount and the hood supports. Oh well, let the air flow through the holes. AC should work good in the winter time, ha, ha.

Really thick black vinyl already glued on, inside trunk area, where you can see it. Sorry, your idea is good, but late. Also, was easy to glue the pieces you see in my photos. I did a neat job, I think. Rounded the edges, etc.

Thank you for thinking I have good welding skills. Also, only have a cheap mig welder and there is not room enough to get the end of the wire feed up and over the cross beam and clear the under side of the dash. I did think about welding it, but would have to do that from under the lip on the T mount. My welding skills stink ! Not possible to have some "real" welder come over and do the work with car body suspended from cables. My friends and relatives who did welding all died. Not a joke and I miss them, for their welding skills and as friends and relatives. My only brother, only siblings was a certified welder. He passed away in year 2000. Nice guy and could have done anything I needed on this project. But, life goes on, without them.

Do you know of any source for the missing brackets, which bolts to the rear cross beam and you bolt the rear bumper support to it ? Also, missing the clamp on metal assembly for the front bumper mounting. I see bumper brackets, but they only go from bumper to bolted in brackets. Missing both front and rear metal bracket sets. Help ! I can have a welding shop fabricate some, but easier to find new ones, I hope.

Here's the front bumper brackets. Not sure they are worth $50 +$15 shipping though plus if you add a sway bar they will need modification.  Picture is of mine modified (flipped upside down).

 

http://vintagespeedsterparts.com/bumperfront.aspx

 

I have run my Beetles for 30 plus years without sway bars and find no problem on handling. VW only used the sway bar on the rear suspension in 1967 and 1968, not in earlier years. on the front I cannot tell any difference with or without swap bar. Now, I do not autocross or sports car race, just drive on the roadways.

The center of gravity is low on the speedster vehicle. I did autocross an IM , I owned back in 1991, now I recall, without sway bars and it did very good on the courses. I will look at your picture. Where do the bumper brackets bolt on the frame ? In my assembly manual, the brackets used U-clamps to the upper and lower torsion beams. ---George K. ---

The photo of your bumper bracket is what I am missing.  I see in the vintagespeedsteparts, they only sell the support brace, which goes from bumper to this bracket.  Not the needed one, you show in photo.  I can have it fabricated as had a similar brace made for my 1970 VW Rat Rod bumper. 

Yes, they use large (diameter of the H-beam tubes) Muffler clamp U-bolts - upper and lower.  They mount at the very ends of the H-beam - outside (if I recall) of the grease fittings.

 

I can trace mine on paper and send you it if that would help fab.  Just dialog me your address. Photo is before I modified the bracket --- collision with anti-sway bar!

 

You will be driving your Speedster faster than a VW bug on curves plus your engine is larger --- plus the MADNESS of "front and rear anti-sway bars look cool".

 

The bumper bracket support on the front bolts to the beam with a large u-shaped bolt.

I didn't have the brackets either, so this is how I solved the problem.  Same basic concept, just a little different execution using what I had on hand.

 

 

Thanks for the suggestions on the bumper supports. ---George K. ---

Driving my speedster faster than my Beetle ?  I doubt that !  My 1970 Rat Rod has at least 120hp with a very expensive 1776cc, which used to be my all out race engine.  The Bug has no swap bars , yet for a top heavy car, handles very good on curves.  I have small 135R15's up front and 205/65/15's on rear, stock height.  I never lower my cars, as I like driving OVER 4X4's on Houston's highways. 

 

I drove my IM speedster, back in 1992,  without sway bars in many autocross events.  The lower center of gravity made up for the lacking sway bars.  Now, I was not trying to set a course record, mind you  . And, it had swing axle rear suspension, which really impressed me on curves.  I think I was running 165R15's tires, on all four wheels.  Only had a mild 1641cc engine. 

 

On the "new" speedster, putting in a 1641cc, basically stock engine and it might have 70hp.  When my Uncle Sam gives me money, as Obama promised me, being the middle class, I will build up another 120hp 1776cc.  Many have questioned the HP rating on my engines.  I have built 1776cc, dyno tested to 210hp, but those were race only engines.  On the street, had many with up to 150hp, from 1776cc. Now, that said, it requires really good heads and the right combination of parts.  My VW Rat Rod, I kept talking about has Brother's race quality 42X37.5mm valves in the ported heads, but only a Engle 110 cam. Bottom end is all Berg with expensive Pauter rods, good for 11,000rpm, not kidding.  I ran the bottom end parts for three years in drag race car up to shift point of 10,000. 

 

Sorry got off subject, but point is, I drive like the old man I am and will have somewhat low horsepower engines, in my speedster, just enough for the flat land I  drive on, by the Gulf Coast of Texas. I will rarely , if ever, drive up  large hills or mountains.  Really, don't miss the sway bars.  The majority of my VW Beetle customers do not have sway bars on their cars and they never complain about missing them or needing them.  Seriously, with IRS rear suspension, why does anyone need sway bars on the rear.  With gas filled front shocks, those keep the body from shifting in curves.  Well, just my opinion.  Certainly, putting on front sway bars will not hurt anything. 

George, My name is Jim Hoban and I live in Seabrook, Tx.  I used to work at your local Toyota dealer and sold you a Tacoma about 2006.  I have an unfinished CMC and I have the  [I think] complete manual.  You are welcome to borrow it. More important, it is time to finish my car and I need some one to that.  Are you still in the VW business?  Give me a call at 281  799 6442

Slow progress, but this week should finally mate the body with the chassis. 

 

Did some work on the windshield, just getting some of the various things lined out. I put on temporary panels on the doors.  Now, please don't write me, as these are only because I got tired of having to vacuum out the inside of the doors, each time I did grinding on the fiberglass and there is much left to do on the body.  I found some plastic cardboard looking pieces at Lowe's and cut and fitted them and put them on with number 8X3/4 sheet metal self tapping screws.  Then painted them some color to cover up the white they were made with.  The good news is that I will go with aluminum door panels, and paint them either red or black.  I can use these "cardboard" type temporary panels as templates for the final aluminum panels and then will add ( hold your comments) VW Beetle arm rest, from a 1973 Bug, attached to the aluminum panels.  I wanted a strong arm rest and some easy way to close the doors without reaching on top of them.  It's not Porsche like, but will function. 

 

Installed the 914 gauges and they look good. Still have to wire up everything, but doing some pre-work, as the assembly manual states.  I installed the dash grab handle and it is on super good.  Not sure if other have done this, but I put stainless steel washer between the grab handle and the dash and this looks good.  It also adds strength to the grab handle as I have some fat friends.  Both sides of the dash are with large washers , to help protect the dash from cracking with hard use by my fat friends. 

 

Finally, noticed the metal plate under the doors, does not line up from front to rear with the floor pan holes.  Seems like some of the floor pan holes will go into the square body frame and other bolts will go into the thin metal plate.  Not sure if that clears the seat rails or it this arrangement is normal on the speedster, as all I see have carpet covering up the floor areas.  Attachment of the body to the floor pan will take me days to complete.   I do have some professional grade RTV black sealant going between parts, once all the holes are drilled and tapped and parts are aligned. 

 

You know by now, this is not going to be show quality, unless we are talking about the local super market parking lot shows on Saturday nights.  People bring anything in any condition to these local shows.  Once this speedster is finished enough for daily use, I might sell my Rat Rod, but consider putting it's 120hp 1776cc and Rancho modified transmission, into the speedster, if Rat Rod is sold.  That would make for a fast car.  My rpm limit on the 1776cc for shift point is set at 8000.  No kidding ! 

I am going with a 1971 VW Beetle steering column.  It has both the turn signal and wiper switch in it, but as I already installed the CMC pull switch for the two speed wipers, I cut off the stalk of the wiper part of the factory column switch, put in a new turn signal switch and cleaned, sanded and painted the column, so it looks pretty. I also cleaned all the parts which attach to it and to the steering box. Lots of detail work.

 

Since I sold the nice looking 1641cc I had advertised and was going to use that engine in my speedster, have to build another engine.  I gathered up the needed missing parts, stuff I did not have in my shop inventory and have an original VW case, from 1972, which is all standard in sizes.  This is a rare find and should make a good base for my "new" 1641cc.  I will again go with the 34mm ICT's as only need 70 to 80HP, for testing out the car and being sure all the parts I put on it, work.  Later on, might build a mild 1776cc which would have about 100hp. 

 

People talk about how great type four engines are.  I find the heads do not last any longer than those on the type one. The type four has a few advantages, like you never loose the fan operation due to a broken belt, they had alternators and oil filter.  I have modified a few in my time, but find the parts three times more expensive than the parts used in either stock or modified VW type one engines.  For the money, looks like a type one can have as much HP at a much lower cost.  So, I have a very small fixed income.  The Beetle type one engine will last the same 100,000 miles, if you maintain it and the VW factory recommended a valve job be done on both the type one and type four at about 50,000 miles.  So, no advantage on the heads for the type four.  Parts being three times more expensive for stock stuff, I have to stay with the little type one. 

 

When I build the 1776cc for the speedster, I do have a type four oil cooler and modified type one fan shroud I am going to use, to keep down the oil temperatures.  With some clever ducting I plan to use, from under the car, to the engine compartment, I might not need any external oil cooler.  Oil filters are nice, but if you change your car's oil every 2000 miles, the inside of the engine will stay clean. Oil is cheap, well, my Walmart brand is cheap and does a good job, based on many years using it and tear downs.  Few people  will agree with what I like.

 

Oh, saw a nice looking complete windshield washer kit, EMPI has , part number

15-2060.   I might go with that, as we get too much dew on our cars, where I live and pollen from the trees.  

About 1.01pm, September 15,2015 I decided it would be easier to shot myself, then get the windshield installed.  After 10 pre-trial fitting, grinding, filing, cursing, swearing and only one hit my finger with a hammer, events the darn thing is still not installed. 

 

I am following my old brilliant ideas, the instructions in the CMC/Fiberfab assembly manual and also, Gordon's six pages of "How to install a windshield in a Speedster", Doctoral thesis.  I mentioned in earlier post I really did not like the design of the 1/4 inch 10-24 oval head machine screw,  carefully inserted into the top threaded hole of the corner chrome post and only grabbing one to two threads on the aluminum windshield frame. Same goes for the lower threaded hole on the chrome corner post, as you have about 1/2 inch of threads on the corner post, but only grabbing carefully and delicately, that thin aluminum windshield frame.  Again, Gordon tells us to be gentle and not use much torque or you will strip out the small amount of threads on the aluminum windshield frame.

 

So, I was not a fan of the standard engineering design for the attachment of the corner post to the windshield frame.  I drilled both holes in the corner posts to 1/4 inch.  Marked the aluminum frame, as shown in the "normal" assembly instructions and with the glass and channel installed and this put on the speedster, marked the location for the needed holes in the aluminum frame. Note, not threading it for 1/4 inchX20 threads.  Took all those items apart and drilled 1/4 holes through the windshield frame.  Next, used a small countersink hole cutter on my drill and inside the aluminum frame channel, made as deep a countersink or tapered hole as possible.  I used 1/4X20 flat head Phillips machine screws , Stainless Steel, cut each side on the head of the screw somewhat flat, to allow clearance when it sits inside the frame channel.  The process ended up with barely 1/32 of the flat head of the ss 1/4x20 screw sticking about the aluminum frame, looking at this from inside the channel. The screws goes into the channel from the inside to the outside, going through the chrome corner post.  Of course, it sticks out of the corner post, but really liked the 12 ft. lbs. of torque and with basically the same as having two 1/4x20 ss bolts and nuts, on each corner post, there is no way that assembly is going to come apart.

 

So, for looks, as we are all crazy about how things look, with the 1/4 threads sticking outside the corner post, put on a nice shiny 1/4x20 nut, then what is called a "cap head " nut.  Looks like a nut but has a rounded cap on it, closed in and looks like chrome.  Well, you are all dying from this not being the standard "pray it holds" set up with the 10x24 oval head screws, which look pretty on the chrome corner post.  But, I also plan to invent some nice wind deflectors, and use the same extended 1/4x20 threads on the outsides of the corner post to mount the wind deflectors.  Then, it will look cool !   For now, with the 1/2 inch of the 1/4x20 machine screw threads with the one nut and one cap head nut, it looks nice. 

 

Certainly is strong and no way, the aluminum frame is coming loose with vibration from driving and/or if someone accidently holds onto the aluminum frame when they get in and out of the speedster.  I read most passengers are buried somewhere in the Arizona desert whom pulled on the aluminum frame of the windshield and perhaps cracked the glass.  

 

Gordon got it right about taking a feeder washer and grinding it, whereby you can put it under the dash, against the fiberglass, when you put on the chrome corner posts.  I used a 5/16 hole fender washer as I wanted something thin to grind on. The post on my speedster measured 9/16 diameter, where it goes through the body.  I used a step drill to enlarge the hole in the custom made washer we need, to 3/4 inch, as the taper or angle of the post , you have to use a bigger hole or the washer will not laid against the underside of the body fiberglass.  Then, grinded off two sides to flat , not rounded edges on the custom made washer.  Really easy , using a bench grinder and vise grips, on the modification of the washer. 

 

I like the 3/8 inch diameter bolt holding the corner post in the body and Gordon's instructions worked on making the spacer and lining up the parts to give one a solid assembly of the corner post to the body.  Consider, that is pretty strong, so with my improved attached aluminum frame with machine screw and nuts, not just threaded into the thin aluminum windshield frame, I feel confident all the windshield frame will hold up to some abuse. 

 

I cut some of the rubber U-channel to be sure I was clearing my machine screws, as they are placed inside the alum. frame, not threaded into the frame.  As there is some thickness to the rubber windshield U-channel, only cut just enough to clear the heads of those ss 1/4x20 flat screw heads.  Note, they barely stuck up from the surface inside the alum. frame, due to the countersink holes and some grinding on them.  On the windshield center support , followed Gordon's instructions perfectly and did no clever design of my own.  I did cut away some of the U-channel, to clear the tip of the center windshield support as there is plenty of U-channel holding the glass in place.  I had to grind off a lot of the tip on my center support for the windshield frame and 1/32 left from the grove in the tip to the edge of that support bar, inside the alum. frame is about it.  Getting the angle right and drilling the hole in the dash was fun.  Gordon's use of reverse on the drill worked nicely.  Thanks for all the good tips. 

 

So, I did not take any pictures of the modification on the chrome corner post, but will probably have some later on, once the windshield installation is complete.  I am waiting for the glue on the rubber gasket, on the bottom of the glass to dry and will attempt to line up the lower chrome strip on my speedster body.  There seems to be a problem with fit of the lower chrome piece and the contour of the body in that area, not matching and leaving two large gaps under the chrome bottom piece, between it and the body.  I am afraid, if I rivet that lower chrome piece to the body and eliminate the gap, the lower windshield rubber gasket will then want to pull away from the glass.  I don't see any simple solution to this new "fit" problem.  Using the fender webbing, Gordon suggested and I am doing that, makes up for "some" of the gap between the body and the lower chrome strip.  Only makes up for "some" of the gap problem.  Well, will sleep on this problem and think of some clever engineering design, nobody else has, to get my windshield attached to the funny contour of my speedster body and make the windshield attached good and solid. As one tightens on the center support rod, that does pull the windshield down to the body, but as someone already drilled the corner post holes, slightly off, as they did not follow Gordon's instructions and the assembly manual is misleading, I again have a problem with possibly no solution to get it perfect.  I see, on my 10th. trail fitting of the glass, I can tighten up on the center glass support and if the corner post are left loose, they allow the glass to move down more towards the body contour.  Seems like my problem is that someone already drilled the holes at the wrong angle and I cannot correct them, or will have too big of a hole for the corner post.  Buying an old body, which was only partially assembled is a challenge to resolve messed up areas, like the glass is causing me. 

 

On a more positive achievement, look at how I attached the front of the floor pan to the body frame.  The floor pan was not close to lining up with the frame, so make some angle iron and alum. pieces , then attached the floor pan with grade eight bolts and nuts. I have all the floor pan held up good to the body frame and used industrial black RTV sealant and this floor pan to frame is not going anywhere or leaking water through the seams.  I used grade eight bolts from the body frame extension metal to the floor pan and grade eight 1/4x20 bolts threaded into the frame through the floor pan holes, on the rear most three bolt places.  All this came out really good.  On the out of line hole they drilled in the rear frame to rear suspension stock mount, I made a metal extension and used the stock mount threaded hole closest to the shock, then attached the other end of the added metal angle piece of metal to the body frame, so that should be strong enough. 

 

Too bad someone drilled the corner holes in the wrong place and that is causing me unwanted problems with installation of the windshield.  I really like my improved mounting method for the chrome corner post to the alum. windshield frame and with the wind deflectors, it will look great !  With my through the windshield frame method, putting on a wind deflector will not weaken the attached corner post to the alum. window frame.  it's all about having industrial strength in how I build my cars.  Got that from building off road oil exploration equipment for use in the North slope of Alaska, the Deserts of the Middle East and we also used our equipment in four foot deep mud, in the jungles of Brazil. Not planning to drive my speedster in those places, but perhaps, with my industrial engineering, it might hold up. 

 

I wonder how the speedster would looked jacked up four feet with monster tires on it ?  

In this post, just going to let the photos do the talking.  Pictures of finished windshield installation and wiper arms and motor ( not pictured is motor under dash).  You get to see a close up of my modified corner post.  Now, before you complain, I will be adding custom made wind deflectors, which will bolt to the extended threaded screws, so wanted the post to aluminum frame on super good, so I can add a serious working wind deflector on said corner post. A big thing with this CMC body was someone had already drilled the corner holes in the wrong place, so I had to work with what I had, as correcting that mistake would be very difficult.  I think, over all, the windshield looks good enough, is certainly mounted with a solid feel to it and the wipers are from a 1973 Standard Beetle, the 12V ones with the better electric wiper motor and splined wiper arm shafts and wiper arms.  Really a solid set up which will work in rain.  I plan to drive this car as much as possible in all kinds of weather, so good working wipers were needed.  I modified the wiper arms to place the seated position of the wiper blades on the passenger side, not on the driver's side, as they did on the 1968 and newer Beetles.  Lots of engineering changes and for the better. 

 

If one wanted the better mounting of the corner post to the aluminum frame, you could leave off the one nut, cut the threads on the 1/4x20 machine screws shorter and only use the cap nut, which would look rather good, like a chrome nut on the end of the bolt through set up.  I was able to get 12ft. lbs. torque on the stainless steel 1/4x20 flat head machine screws.  No problem or worry about stripping out the fragile aluminum windshield frame.  Or, for a fit, use this method.  I think I described in detail, what I did, in the previous post.  You need to have good tools and skills or have a mechanic who has the same skills and tools.  It does require some accurate drilling and grinding and cutting off the excess of the threads on the machine screws.  Hope you enjoy my progress on my speedster.  It's starting to look more like something one might want to drive.  ---George K. ---

..."just going to let the photos do the talking"

 

          DUH?

Each picture is worth 1000 words. Really ! That is the saying.

I had to explain why I did what I did, otherwise everyone would wonder why I did not follow "normal" assembly instructions. In this case, the previous owner, who started this speedster project really messed up many things on it. I am trying my best to correct their mistakes, while putting the car together. Some explanation was required. Duh !

" Duh" is my favorite word. Thanks for using it. For real, named my only daughter Danette and she uses Duh as her nickname.

Does anyone know if four gage battery cable is big enough , going from the positive side of the battery all the way back to the starter solenoid ? It's the biggest the auto parts store stocked .

---George K. ---

Making great progress George!

 

What kind of foam/rubber did you use under the windshield posts? It looks like open cell. Is it?

 

Not that any of these cars are water tight....but I think open cell foam is going to allow water through. I used it as trunk sealer on a non-speedster...and I might as well have left it off.

I believe the bottom windshield frame is supposed to bend with the contour of the body and the glass actually floats a bit in the whole surrounding frame.

Bill you're right and you win a special prize selected just for him :~)

George - Trying to figure out the 4 or so clamps on the windshield lower aluminum trim are. The worth 1000 words misses there. Assume its just temp?  DrClock uses a strip of black VW vinyl fender beading under that trim to make it look more finished and I believe around the windshield posts (although there is an OEM rubber gasket for around the posts).

It appears that the windshield sat high and that, was ....the fix ?

It is some very dense form, used in truck seat cushions, from long ago. Not open . I just wanted some cushion between the corner post and the body, to prevent the metal from cutting into the gel coat, etc.

The self-stick house window insulation I had to use, under the lower windshield chrome strip, is waterproof. So, able to keep the water from coming under the windshield. I still need to use a small amount of industrial grade RTV black sealant, in a few spots, on the corners of the windshield and if I figure out how to smear it on those dense form pieces, that will add to the water proofing.

My experience with any old convertibles is they are hard to get 100% sealed up, when fighting driving rain. I read the side windows are too short, but going to have my own, custom made from Lexan so once the convertible top is done, which I hope will look half-way decent, then the side windows can be made, to fit my car, as needed. The wind deflectors, which will go on before I start driving it, will also help prevent water from pouring into the interior, from any gaps in the side window.

I saw one customer's speedster, which has power operated glass door windows with fitted gaskets where the glass meets the windshield. I have not seen this done on other speedsters, probably due to cost to greatly modify the door for the glass mechanism . The man's replica is valued at $50,000 plus.

I drove a street legal VW sand rail, for 1.5 years, every day , round trip of 100 miles, back and forth to work, in rain and shine, cold and hot weather, wearing a suit and tie. I did some custom aluminum panels on the sides, made a hood, Lexan windshield, and learned from that experience some tricks to keep the water from pouring through the windshield on me, the driver. It has an aluminum roof, rear section behind the two seats with Lexan rear window and zipper and snap on side curtains, with plastic windows. Only problem I had was stopping on wet streets. Too light of a car and the front tires would slide, with water on the roadway. I think the front end weight was only 250 pounds.

You are right in thinking I probably will not get my speedster 100% rain proof, like a new sedan car. By design, I don't think this is possible. Has anyone looked at the side windows on The Thing, custom made and sold by The Thing Shop, in Arizona ? These will not fit the speedster, but I like their engineering ideas and how they made their side windows, with sliding real glass , yet, the unit will slide into the tops of the doors, JUST LIKE on the speedster. Perhaps, my side windows can be based on those , for The Thing, and made for my speedster, real sliding glass, when side windows are installed and yet, they just mount into the tops of the doors. Great idea ---right ? ---George K. ---