I know. The person who barely started to assemble this speedster really messed up where they drilled the corner holes for the chrome corner post. Those are about two inches OFF, on my poorly molded CMC body. Also, I see my windshield had to be mounted as is, due to the massive holes already drilled in the body. I would like to have it done the normal way, but had to work with this messed up molded body and what the past owners did to it.
The hood does not fit perfectly down on the front nose of the body. I see no way to correct that and while I don't like that gap in that area, I used two layer of house self-stick insulation to help keep water out. It does lock down, after I modified and extended the latch mechanism. Again, adjustments to the hood supports and mounting would not correct this body problem. I am happy the hood does lock down. So far, when I pull the release cable, it does not pop up, but I will figure out that small problem. I know the release mechanism works, but with the gap and the hood up about 1/2 inch more than it should be, due to poor molded body section, I need to play with it, for me to pull the hood cable and watch the hood pop up, on it's own action.
I found the deck lid also had problems with fitting in it's molded hole. Nothing much seems to fit properly on this speedster body I bought. I do have the deck lid popping up on it's own and locks down good, but again, wish I had better body parts and molded car body to work with. It took me two days of playing with the doors, now they close perfectly and latch good, with one finger closing the doors. Adjustments, adjustments, adjustments seem to be the key word.
Is it not like I did not want to follow Gordon's instructions and tried, but again, if you read the fine print, this speedster body I have bought is really messed up on fit of major body sections. Also, have to work with some drilled monster holes, which placed the corner post in the wrong position. I think, on this body, which has many molded problem even with if the instructions were followed 100%, I would have some gap under the chrome strip. I tried the fender welting, did a trail fit and tried to adjust the windshield frame downward, but not happening. I am a master auto tech with plenty of experience and tools. When I try and don't get good results, like we all expect to see, believe me, it is due to what I have bought and not me overlooking the "standard" way to mount the glass.
To answer your questions. Gordon wrote to use every other hole in the chrome strip and bend it to the contour of the body. I get that and understand. Not happening with this messed up body, from God only knows, what year. I think someone had a bad day at the CMC factory, when they poured this one. I owned an IM speedster back in 1992 and the various parts fitted nicely on that one, unlike this mess I have bought. So, could not force the chrome down to the body, due to problems I bought with this car. The next best plan was to attach permanent tabs, only four small ones, to the chrome strip and if you look closely at the pictures, there are nylon spacers showing from 1/4 to 1/2 inch needed between sections of the chrome strip and the body. Yes, I am not thrilled about this, but I think it looks as best as possible and will hold the base of the window in place. Next will really shock you. Ever see how they mount windows in NASCAR race cars ? I considered following that routine, but you guys would be writing me for years, if you saw a NASCAR style windshield installation.
But, they hold up to 230MPH,so, why not, except for LOOKS.
I really like my modified mounting of the corner post. For me, having barely any threads in the aluminum frame was not acceptable to my requirements. I did it where it looks good and once the wind deflectors are in place will look super nice, clean and practical. My goal is to have this looking as good as possible, but really, I got a lemon of a body , to work with. IF you review my early post on what I did on the floor pan, you can see I really like well engineered cars and it looks great. I do lean towards function over looks, so get used to my changes. It's a fun car, personalized for me, something to drive and not close to the original Porsche, as we all know the real Porsche owners don't like a replica.
Sorry for the long post. But, told you about the IM speedster I owned back in 1992. I autocross raced it with the Porsche Lone Star Region Club. You would not believe the comments I got when doing that autocross racing, as people thought I was tearing up a real Porsche. That IM looked like the real thing, but VW chassis under the body. I mean, people would walk up to me and chew me out with words about how stupid I must be or too rich, to tear up this valuable car. It was so funny! Then, I explained it was a replica and VW powered. So, been there and know what to expect this time, with my non-perfect speedster. I only need to please myself. Please understand this .
To answer your questions. Gordon wrote to use every other hole in the chrome strip and bend it to the contour of the body. I get that and understand. Not happening with this messed up body, from God only knows, what year. I think someone had a bad day at the CMC factory, when they poured this one. I owned an IM speedster back in 1992 and the various parts fitted nicely on that one, unlike this mess I have bought. So, could not force the chrome down to the body, due to problems I bought with this car. The next best plan was to attach permanent tabs, only four small ones, to the chrome strip and if you look closely at the pictures, there are nylon spacers showing from 1/4 to 1/2 inch needed between sections of the chrome strip and the body. Yes, I am not thrilled about this, but I think it looks as best as possible and will hold the base of the window in place. Next will really shock you. Ever see how they mount windows in NASCAR race cars ? I considered following that routine, but you guys would be writing me for years, if you saw a NASCAR style windshield installation.
But, they hold up to 230MPH,so, why not, except for LOOKS.
I really like my modified mounting of the corner post. For me, having barely any threads in the aluminum frame was not acceptable to my requirements. I did it where it looks good and once the wind deflectors are in place will look super nice, clean and practical. My goal is to have this looking as good as possible, but really, I got a lemon of a body , to work with. IF you review my early post on what I did on the floor pan, you can see I really like well engineered cars and it looks great. I do lean towards function over looks, so get used to my changes. It's a fun car, personalized for me, something to drive and not close to the original Porsche, as we all know the real Porsche owners don't like a replica.
Sorry for the long post. But, told you about the IM speedster I owned back in 1992. I autocross raced it with the Porsche Lone Star Region Club. You would not believe the comments I got when doing that autocross racing, as people thought I was tearing up a real Porsche. That IM looked like the real thing, but VW chassis under the body. I mean, people would walk up to me and chew me out with words about how stupid I must be or too rich, to tear up this valuable car. It was so funny! Then, I explained it was a replica and VW powered. So, been there and know what to expect this time, with my non-perfect speedster. I only need to please myself. Please understand this .
Ten, trial fittings and that was the "fix". Nobody will like it, but it works and looks as best as possible. I tried every suggested adjustment and instructions found on the speedster web site.
It is solidly mounted, perhaps stronger than the "normal" way to install the windshield and will be water tight. I have to get the convertible top custom made as the windshield is not in the correct place, per the "normal" way , allowed by some unmolested body. Same thing for the tonneau cover, I might need to modify it, but have to add pockets to it anyway, as using real Porsche 914 seats , again, you guys just need to get used to my ideas of comfort and drive ability of my speedster. I owned three 914's in the past and know those seats are good for too many miles on the highways, very good support and comfort. I see others have used different seats in their crème puff speedsters, so tell them they are not following standard thoughts or their's no longer looks close the real thing. I cannot afford the real thing, so this is for fun driving.
It is solidly mounted, perhaps stronger than the "normal" way to install the windshield and will be water tight. I have to get the convertible top custom made as the windshield is not in the correct place, per the "normal" way , allowed by some unmolested body. Same thing for the tonneau cover, I might need to modify it, but have to add pockets to it anyway, as using real Porsche 914 seats , again, you guys just need to get used to my ideas of comfort and drive ability of my speedster. I owned three 914's in the past and know those seats are good for too many miles on the highways, very good support and comfort. I see others have used different seats in their crème puff speedsters, so tell them they are not following standard thoughts or their's no longer looks close the real thing. I cannot afford the real thing, so this is for fun driving.
Today, I noticed the original speedster and I think the Beck designed ones, have the windshield center support really close to the windshield. My CMC/Fiberfab assembly manual called for three inches to the rear of the base of the windshield and NOW I see, IF I had noticed the original design and the Beck lay out, I might have been able to pull the misplaced windshield more down, towards the body, with the help of the center support location. Oh well, too late now.
Used up four cutting disc on my angle grinder to cut off the excess metal from the plate welded by the doors, inside the car body. I mounted the 914 seats and that went good. Seats look good, thanks to Gordon's sale to me.
Put on the hood handle with "Speedster/Fiberfab" gold plated emblem. I changed out the too short 6mm stud and used a 1/4x20 1.5 inch long stud, I made from a 1/4 grade 5 machine bolt. On the small end of the hood handle, one of the 3mm studs was stripped out of the handle metal and the other one was too short in length. My body has two layers on the hood, with space between the two layers.
Some speedster owner suggested I use a dremel and cut the fiberglass to use the short metric stubs on the handle, but I did not like that suggestion. My goal is to cut as little of the fiberglass body as possible. The 1/4x20 longer bolt worked nicely and I got a good tight lock washer and nut under the hood, thought the cut out, made for mounting the hood latch. On the other end, the small narrow part of the hood handle, I could not figure out any way to put in a stud, due to the soft metal, but at least one fastener is needed on the small end to hold the handle down to the hood. Okay, here comes more complaints --- as the metal was brittle and someone had already stripped out one of the two small stud holes, I just drilled all the way thought the small end, but put a gold plated 6x32 size bolt through that one small end and that was long enough to clear the two layers of hood fiberglass and used two nuts, jammed together, so my hood handle is on , super good. The gold small top screw looks okay with the gold speedster/fiberfab emblem, below it. All gold and chrome.
I am going to test my ignition switch on the 1972 steering column I plan to use on tomorrow's work. If the present switch checks out good, I will install the cleaned, sanded and painted steering column. I already wrote I cut off the stalk of the wiper switch, as we have one in the dash to pull to work the 1972 nicely installed wiper system. How come people don't compliment my good looking work, in the pictures ?? My wiper set up looks better than most original 356 Speedsters, shown in videos have and I am sure, with 12Volts and splined attachment to the wiper arms, will work better. Also, as true back in the early 1950's and to the mid 1950's I put the wipers towards the passenger side, wanting a early style look and I don't like the wiper blades in my path of view, when looking out the windshield.
Yes, modified the wiper arms and changed the reference contact points inside the electrical motor to allow for the arms to end up on the passenger side of the car, not stop on the driver's side. Yep, I am some electrical guru, I think. Kids, don't try this at home as you need to know what you are going, before you burn up your electric wiper motor and perhaps your entire wiring system.
I mentioned my idea to put in sliding glass panes, on the side windows. I am going to contact The Thing Shop on Monday and ask for some leads on who makes up their custom side sliding glass windows. Darn things are expensive, but practical. Anyone note there is no fresh air ventilation system on the speedster ? Other than leave the top down or off ? I am thinking of some way to provide clean filtered air from the front of the car, to the inside for air movement and to allow some air flow to my hot legs. Interesting they left out fresh air system, but wonder if the REAL speedsters had some kind of vents from the outside to the dash top ? Maybe, a grill in front of the windshield with vented fresh air going to the interior ? More than defroster vents. Those can carry some heater air from heater boxes, but we are mostly using modified engine and no heater boxes, so those small defroster vents are just there, doing nothing.
Lots of ideas and it is slowly coming together. I am having problems keeping people out of my garage as they see my work in progress Speedster and wonder what kind of car I am putting together. While there are many problem areas on this one, people really like the car. Go figure !
Word was "doing", not 'going'. Sorry , I missed that one.
Silly hood does not pop up open, when I pull the release cable and I know that is doing it's job. I think the special bolt, which latches the hood down, is catching on the edge of that receiver plate. I cannot move either part around to correct, but have two plans in mind. Somehow, I will add small helper springs, somewhere under the hood, pushing on the hood on both sides and attached to the sides of the truck walls. With proper placement and proper spring pressure, I am going to get the silly hood to pop open, with one pull of the release cable. If I had a good body to work with, none of the problems should exist.
On the Beetles, used to add some washer under the existing spring to help it have more force to pop up the heavy Beetle hood, but the design on the speedster is different. With the safety hook to the left side and not lined up in front of the spring loaded hold down bolt, I think this tosses off the alignment on how the hood opens and closes. I think the Beetle arrangement is the better design of the two.
Again, it's trunk, not truck walls. Wow, have to proof read my post.
Finally, a short post.
Installed the 1972 steering column in the speedster and to my surprise, it lined up good with the rubber coupler and body parts. I had to remove the added metal bracket, they had, for using the earlier model steering columns, as not needed.
Put the gas tank in and found bolting it down was fun. The brakes now work, added brake fluid and pumped out the air in the system and have working brakes.
Put in the 914 Porsche seats and seat gliders, supports. That went good.
I have an engine ready to be installed, but will do the complete wiring on this project, first, and perhaps some of the carpet, then off to the safety inspection place, should be driving it by the end of this month.
Project, from ground up , floor pan off, speedster build up, is taking me about two months, but not working every day on it. I added more self-stick house insulation to the hood and now, it pops up, when pulling the release knob. Finally, and did not need to add some weird looking helper springs to get it to open up.
Adjusted the passenger door again and finally have it closing good and added insulation around both doors. I am following the instructions on what to use, from the hardware store, found in the CMC assembly manual.
Looking forward to driving my speedster, without top , as that will come later. My money is at an all time low, in my bank accounts. I hope Texas does not give me a hard time when I register it with the Las Vegas, NV. title in hand.
Your 3" (to the rear) windshield post position on the dash is pulling the frame up off the cowland rearward. If the post was installed correctly, i.e. 1" from the windshield frame base it would have pulled the entire frame downward the same alignment as the post bases hence a downward and secure position...This is why we ...do...... try to help you and to avoid major issues such as you now have with the windshield frame...BTW George, as you stated with the windshield up and rearward as you have installed it, a stock convertible top ( and side curtains) will not fit as designed and that too, will have to be custom cobbled some.
Post holes, you could have fabricated some polished aluminum plates that replicate the post base area with a larger diameter and that would have covered the holes and positioned the windshield correctly.
Front hood gap: You can cut a bit off the rear edge by the cowl and slide the hood to the rear ( this would have been done prior to hing and latch placements) this decreases that gap I have done this a number of times.
I remember Leon C's frustration with the 8 or so windshield post holes PO drilled either side. Think he finally fiberglassed them all and started from scratch. Years ago I had same issue - couldn't find (non-existant) scribe marks. I called CMC tech support and they faxed me a rough drawn template which I posted here. Should still be in my CLIPS.
The front hood plunger has a spring on it that should make hood pop up when released --- unless it binds in which case it can be adjusted to center it.
The CMC sales literature claims you can complete a Speedster in approximately 40 hours - all here joke that they left off a zero/decimal point and 400 is more accurate.
It would have been easier to fill the holes and start over doing it right the first time...
I did not drill the corner holes. If I had bought a new body and done all the work on it, the windshield would fit correctly. I don't think the top is off much and on the convertible top and side windows, they have to be custom made. By a slight adjustment on the rear mounting of the convertible top that can correct the wrong location of the windshield and not be noticed. Lucky me, while I got ripped off on the purchase and there are so many missing parts, I did get the front bow to attach the material to, for the top and the frame pieces and chrome top latches, which clip to the top of the windshield. I don't see any fit problems to worry about.
I am trying to figure out how to make sliding glass windows, in a custom made frame, like The Thing Shop does for the Thing vehicles. Looks good and also the unit fits into two holes in the door, just like the floppy so-so side windows fit on the speedster.
The tonneau cover fits on the same clips in the rear, as the convertible top. The cover I bought came with no holes punched into it, we can match up the tonneau cover with whatever one needs, up front, to make it workable. I don't always follow what some plans or design show and if I can think of any better or my ideal word is "easier" installation, then I go that direction. I don't like being in lines, in traffic, like an ant following another ant. Are we ants or intelligent human beings ? Why not adapt what I have to work with, for the best possible outcome ?
I have restored many Beetle convertibles, so know what VW did originally on the tops and also have suggested many different designs for those with Fiberglass Dune Buggies, wanting some partial or complete canvas top. It's not my first rodeo. The speedster does not have the body designed like the Beetle Convertible, so cannot follow the same way the VW factory did those tops, which is too bad, as they really were well made.
I see pictures of sloppy fitting convertible tops on the speedsters. I wonder why anyone would accept a sloppy fit on their otherwise like the original speedster condition ? Some things in life confuse me. People want the exact duplicate of some grille badge or emblem, but have a sloppy looking top on their car or no top, at all . Seems to me, there is a lot of room available for improvements on these speedsters. While the wide body speedster replica came with nerf bars, not bumpers, I would never drive and park in the Walmart lot, with no protection to my expensive speedster wide body replica. Not saying it does not look cool, but not practical, yet, many have speedsters with like no protection for parking lot collisions. You know that person bumping your speedster fiberglass body is going to leave you a note with their name and address and phone number. Do you really believe that ? Not happening where I live. They slam into your car and drive off. I want good functioning bumpers on my speedster. They might end up being custom made, as the body frame is strong and if someone builds on that strong body frame, that would protect my speedster in light hits, in the parking lots.
My gas tank hits the stock VW 1972 steering column I want to use and was suggested as one option in the CMC assembly manual. I hope , using some truck bed liner seals, under the edges of the gas tank will lift it up just enough to clear the nice fitting and working stock steering column. Seems like few things on this vehicle were well designed. Now, if one uses the old 1954 Oval Bug steering column with no energy adsorbing section , in the steering column shaft ( I like life saving devices on cars) I guess that old steering column might clear the gas tank. But, the manual states one can use the upgraded steering column I like, but they did not allow for enough clearance on the energy or collapsing section on the shaft. I like the steering column lock on the 1972, the ignition switch , part of the steering column and able to use the less expensive turn signal switch, which also has built in, contacts where one can switch the headlights from high beam to low beam, by the use of a relay and not some mechanical floor switch. There is no place to mount the mechanical switch, like found on the Beetles or old buses, so I guess all the speedster replica owners rig up something to use the old foot operated headlight switch.
And, I am accused of doing sloppy work ? Does your convertible top canvas fit tight and not flop in the wind ? Does your side windows reach to the convertible top and seal good ? Reading the forum post, all these seem like someone accepts a too short or not tall enough side window unit and sloppy fitting or no convertible top. I see so many , for sale, speedsters with no convertible top on them. What's the problem with having someone do a good fitting convertible top ? There is so much room for criticism of other's cars on this web site and I read it all the time. I really don't care what other speedster owner's did on their cars, unless I find it an improvement over the suggested replica assembly plans. Or, what someone did, just makes sense and adds to the usefulness of the vehicle.
You know, with modified engines I guess few have the stock heater boxes, as they would restrict exhaust flow. But, how many are using available 12V electric heaters, under the dash, like I used on many of my Beetles, which also had modified engines ? There is room to mount the electric heater and still have room for legs. Oh my, they did not have electric heaters in the original Porsche, so here I go again, doing it all wrong. I am so bad !
I am trying to figure out how to make sliding glass windows, in a custom made frame, like The Thing Shop does for the Thing vehicles. Looks good and also the unit fits into two holes in the door, just like the floppy so-so side windows fit on the speedster.
The tonneau cover fits on the same clips in the rear, as the convertible top. The cover I bought came with no holes punched into it, we can match up the tonneau cover with whatever one needs, up front, to make it workable. I don't always follow what some plans or design show and if I can think of any better or my ideal word is "easier" installation, then I go that direction. I don't like being in lines, in traffic, like an ant following another ant. Are we ants or intelligent human beings ? Why not adapt what I have to work with, for the best possible outcome ?
I have restored many Beetle convertibles, so know what VW did originally on the tops and also have suggested many different designs for those with Fiberglass Dune Buggies, wanting some partial or complete canvas top. It's not my first rodeo. The speedster does not have the body designed like the Beetle Convertible, so cannot follow the same way the VW factory did those tops, which is too bad, as they really were well made.
I see pictures of sloppy fitting convertible tops on the speedsters. I wonder why anyone would accept a sloppy fit on their otherwise like the original speedster condition ? Some things in life confuse me. People want the exact duplicate of some grille badge or emblem, but have a sloppy looking top on their car or no top, at all . Seems to me, there is a lot of room available for improvements on these speedsters. While the wide body speedster replica came with nerf bars, not bumpers, I would never drive and park in the Walmart lot, with no protection to my expensive speedster wide body replica. Not saying it does not look cool, but not practical, yet, many have speedsters with like no protection for parking lot collisions. You know that person bumping your speedster fiberglass body is going to leave you a note with their name and address and phone number. Do you really believe that ? Not happening where I live. They slam into your car and drive off. I want good functioning bumpers on my speedster. They might end up being custom made, as the body frame is strong and if someone builds on that strong body frame, that would protect my speedster in light hits, in the parking lots.
My gas tank hits the stock VW 1972 steering column I want to use and was suggested as one option in the CMC assembly manual. I hope , using some truck bed liner seals, under the edges of the gas tank will lift it up just enough to clear the nice fitting and working stock steering column. Seems like few things on this vehicle were well designed. Now, if one uses the old 1954 Oval Bug steering column with no energy adsorbing section , in the steering column shaft ( I like life saving devices on cars) I guess that old steering column might clear the gas tank. But, the manual states one can use the upgraded steering column I like, but they did not allow for enough clearance on the energy or collapsing section on the shaft. I like the steering column lock on the 1972, the ignition switch , part of the steering column and able to use the less expensive turn signal switch, which also has built in, contacts where one can switch the headlights from high beam to low beam, by the use of a relay and not some mechanical floor switch. There is no place to mount the mechanical switch, like found on the Beetles or old buses, so I guess all the speedster replica owners rig up something to use the old foot operated headlight switch.
And, I am accused of doing sloppy work ? Does your convertible top canvas fit tight and not flop in the wind ? Does your side windows reach to the convertible top and seal good ? Reading the forum post, all these seem like someone accepts a too short or not tall enough side window unit and sloppy fitting or no convertible top. I see so many , for sale, speedsters with no convertible top on them. What's the problem with having someone do a good fitting convertible top ? There is so much room for criticism of other's cars on this web site and I read it all the time. I really don't care what other speedster owner's did on their cars, unless I find it an improvement over the suggested replica assembly plans. Or, what someone did, just makes sense and adds to the usefulness of the vehicle.
You know, with modified engines I guess few have the stock heater boxes, as they would restrict exhaust flow. But, how many are using available 12V electric heaters, under the dash, like I used on many of my Beetles, which also had modified engines ? There is room to mount the electric heater and still have room for legs. Oh my, they did not have electric heaters in the original Porsche, so here I go again, doing it all wrong. I am so bad !
I fix and/or repair the similar hood latches on the Beetles. It is very close in design to the one on the speedster. Read my earlier post on assembly notes and pictures. I said my body does not line up good with the hood. I did all the adjustments one can think of and the front of the hood sticks up about 1/2 inch too much, causing me to have to extend the hold down with spring special bolt. I posted pictures of my modified latch parts, in case this helps others with the same problem. I guess, if someone knows how to cut and rework the entire front nose on my speedster, anything can be made right, but really, I don't have that much time left to live my life. My modified latch works good. It latches down easily and now with added foam insulation, pops up good. There is a damaged area on the edge of the hood I will attempt to correct, due to this "unmolested" body being sold to me. Like I said , many times, I got ripped off, on what I bought and just trying my best to correct things, where possible.
I need to post pictures of my daily driver Rat Rod VW and I think once you see it, all these comments about what am doing on the speedster assembly will stop. The Rat Rod looks weird and is a mixture of eight different years, so toss out being original , like it came from the VW factory. That is not happening. But, I get thumbs up, all the time, when driving it and people like to take pictures of it. Just not like any other car, one sees on the roadway. But, that's me, different by design.
I hope this does not offend anyone, but I have never bought or owned a vehicle to impress my neighbors or friends. I buy what I like, whether it is popular or not and modify my cars, to what I like, not what others might like. I hope someone understands this simple statement. I have been blessed with nice looking Corvettes, real Porsche cars, and some other interesting looking muscle cars, which I wished I had never sold. But, never to impress anyone. I like car shows and allow the kids to touch my car body or sit in the driver's seat, much to the shocked look on the other car show competitor's faces. I have parked my weird looking cars next to some $100,000 mint condition bought custom car and the children seem to like MINE, and look more at it, than the expensive car, next to me. They drag their parents over to look at my strange or weird and different looking cars, on display. I am a big favorite at the car shows. Never win a car show trophy, but I have 75 trophies and don't need more to clutter up my living space , those from drag racing wins.
I need to post pictures of my daily driver Rat Rod VW and I think once you see it, all these comments about what am doing on the speedster assembly will stop. The Rat Rod looks weird and is a mixture of eight different years, so toss out being original , like it came from the VW factory. That is not happening. But, I get thumbs up, all the time, when driving it and people like to take pictures of it. Just not like any other car, one sees on the roadway. But, that's me, different by design.
I hope this does not offend anyone, but I have never bought or owned a vehicle to impress my neighbors or friends. I buy what I like, whether it is popular or not and modify my cars, to what I like, not what others might like. I hope someone understands this simple statement. I have been blessed with nice looking Corvettes, real Porsche cars, and some other interesting looking muscle cars, which I wished I had never sold. But, never to impress anyone. I like car shows and allow the kids to touch my car body or sit in the driver's seat, much to the shocked look on the other car show competitor's faces. I have parked my weird looking cars next to some $100,000 mint condition bought custom car and the children seem to like MINE, and look more at it, than the expensive car, next to me. They drag their parents over to look at my strange or weird and different looking cars, on display. I am a big favorite at the car shows. Never win a car show trophy, but I have 75 trophies and don't need more to clutter up my living space , those from drag racing wins.
Next speedster, I will buy a new body. That is less work. You have no idea how molested this body is and with chips and cracks and other terrible things. When I looked over what I have bought I wanted to return it to the seller, but he refused to take it back, at my freight expense. So, stuck with a lemon and trying to make the best of it. I really do not have the time or money to rework the majority of the body and that is what is really needed. First thing, this body was poorly molded, so many of the parts do not fit properly.
Are you suggesting I melt it down and pour the fiberglass into a properly fitting shell ? I agree, that would be doing it right. If you look close at the body in the many pictures I posted, you can tell, there are more problems to deal with and many I have written about, on what I bought. It is what it is. Not worth time and money to try to "do it right, the first time". The first time, was at the CMC factory. They messed up. Then the PO messed up. Then, the guy who bought this to flip it fast and make a fast dollar, messed up. Lucky me, I found it and did not use good judgment before the purchase. I missed buying a complete running speedster, only 240 miles from my home, by three days. The man was out of town and never returned my phone calls, so I bought this pile of junk, excuse me, valuable replica car.
I have written I am not happy with what I bought, so it's going to be a daily driver, not a show car. It will be used daily, day and night, in all kinds of weather, just like a 'real' car, one buys for main transportation. You see how weird I am ? Anyone else using their speedster for daily and main transportation ? I plan to sell the Rat Rod, once this is working good and reliable for daily use. I own a 2014 Hyundai, but enjoy driving the Rat Rod and I am sure, will also get more enjoyment driving the speedster every day. It's different looking and I see no others on the roadways, where I live, so I like being "different". Nobody cares about the hood that does not fit properly or other questionable things, but they will look it over, as it is different and rarely seen in this area. Every now and then, one or two show up at our VW car shows.
Oh, please check out www.bayareavwclub.com . I am a sponsor of that local VW club. Not many speedsters seen , on display, mostly slammed Bugs and old buses. At our May, 2015 big VW meet, there were five Rat Rods on display and fun to look at. I think only two speedsters on display out of 150 cars, in the show area. One was for sale, but priced too high. I don't think it sold. Back then, I was not in the market for a speedster and did not like what I was looking at, on that one. No top, lots of stereo to make up for the poorly built engine.
Don't misunderstand me. I like looking at clean , nicely built speedsters and Spyders. If I had the money, I would have bought a new one , custom built by Beck, but I don't have the money income . So, doing my best with limited income. I priced the new ones, for sale, only partially finished, but done right, out in San Diego, but did not have the money to buy those. If you have a good paying job or were good at making money or just worked hard and make a ton of money, good for you. My luck did not go that way. I can appreciate your car. I cannot afford your car. I think I might cry, as being too nice.
Are you suggesting I melt it down and pour the fiberglass into a properly fitting shell ? I agree, that would be doing it right. If you look close at the body in the many pictures I posted, you can tell, there are more problems to deal with and many I have written about, on what I bought. It is what it is. Not worth time and money to try to "do it right, the first time". The first time, was at the CMC factory. They messed up. Then the PO messed up. Then, the guy who bought this to flip it fast and make a fast dollar, messed up. Lucky me, I found it and did not use good judgment before the purchase. I missed buying a complete running speedster, only 240 miles from my home, by three days. The man was out of town and never returned my phone calls, so I bought this pile of junk, excuse me, valuable replica car.
I have written I am not happy with what I bought, so it's going to be a daily driver, not a show car. It will be used daily, day and night, in all kinds of weather, just like a 'real' car, one buys for main transportation. You see how weird I am ? Anyone else using their speedster for daily and main transportation ? I plan to sell the Rat Rod, once this is working good and reliable for daily use. I own a 2014 Hyundai, but enjoy driving the Rat Rod and I am sure, will also get more enjoyment driving the speedster every day. It's different looking and I see no others on the roadways, where I live, so I like being "different". Nobody cares about the hood that does not fit properly or other questionable things, but they will look it over, as it is different and rarely seen in this area. Every now and then, one or two show up at our VW car shows.
Oh, please check out www.bayareavwclub.com . I am a sponsor of that local VW club. Not many speedsters seen , on display, mostly slammed Bugs and old buses. At our May, 2015 big VW meet, there were five Rat Rods on display and fun to look at. I think only two speedsters on display out of 150 cars, in the show area. One was for sale, but priced too high. I don't think it sold. Back then, I was not in the market for a speedster and did not like what I was looking at, on that one. No top, lots of stereo to make up for the poorly built engine.
Don't misunderstand me. I like looking at clean , nicely built speedsters and Spyders. If I had the money, I would have bought a new one , custom built by Beck, but I don't have the money income . So, doing my best with limited income. I priced the new ones, for sale, only partially finished, but done right, out in San Diego, but did not have the money to buy those. If you have a good paying job or were good at making money or just worked hard and make a ton of money, good for you. My luck did not go that way. I can appreciate your car. I cannot afford your car. I think I might cry, as being too nice.
George,
I think all of the CMC bodies (and probably others) have alignment issues. I have never really understood how it could be possible to bolt finished, gel-coated fiberglass panels together without some final fitting. My doors had uneven gaps, my hood had a similar issue as you describe, and there were some holes drilled by the PO that were not in the right place.
I started by fitting and re-glassing all the problem areas. This does require a re-paint, but it gives me the chance to correct all the problems at once and pre-fit everything before painting.
Still have a few things to do, but getting close.
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You really have to build the whole car like you build the engine--to close tolerances. Where things don't fit, you replace or re-work. 'glass is easier to do this with than a crankshaft or a mag case. amirite?
Yes, urite.
I agree with you on what you are doing. I get impatient, when putting together a vehicle and want it finished so I can drive it.
There are the many holes, let's see, count twelve of them, where someone tacked welded in the roll bar, which was shown in the ads. Happy it was only tacked welded as I used my angle grinder and cut most of the welds, then beat on the pipes with a big hammer and finally removed all the roll bar tubing. So, I am going to cover up those twelve holes with fiberglass.
In one corner, you know, the spot to the rear of the doors, they really chopped up the body for the two cross bars on the roll bar assembly. I am still trying to figure out and read somewhere, how to made some kind of "frame" or "support" in that corner, then place the fiberglass over it, for the same rounded contour of the body. I am not some expert with fiberglass and can lay it on flat surfaces, but large rounded ones ?? I will find out how good my skills are on this body.
I cannot afford a paint job at this time. The gel coat is not too bad, as I am very forgiving on this poor CMC body and later on, there are three bad area, where it looks like someone hit the body with a hammer. Nasty looking cracks, like you might see in a windshield, when a rock hits the glass, the spider shape and I can see those three areas extend to the underside, so they also need to be fixed.
I am going to find some books on fiberglass work on cars as on those three places, I think I have to grind down the surface , the diameter of the extended crack lines, then built it up again with the new fiberglass. It should take several layers and also need to do the same under the car. They are where I can get to the underside on the rear and one on the deck lid, so even with the car in running condition, later on, will fix those three spots. Going to patch up the twelve holes before I put in carpet or any material on the rear "seat" section and other area, before the carpet is laid down. You see, lots of work needed on this one.
I received the mess of parts ( call it an unfinished vehicle and it was barely together enough for shipment0 on August 1. I would like to be able to start driving the speedster by Oct. 1. But, had a 1600cc single port engine, which was up for sale and complete and was not having luck selling it, so planned to put it into the speedster, just to have some engine in it, for any kind of driving experience. But, sold that today, so NOW, I have to build a complete engine for the speedster and have the parts for a 1641cc with dual one barrel carbs, but need time to put it together.
I have a complete 2.0L to build for a customer for their 78 Bus, so work pays the bills, not me working on my speedster project. I did not have any repair work for 1.5 months, so really made some good progress on putting the speedster together.
A man called me and asked me if I would assemble his old CMC unfinished speedster . Ha, if I ever get mine finished, I will have some experience doing that, for him, but I hope he has a lot of money, as this is so time consuming work. I told him I would think about it and call him back, once I have my speedster in running condition. I understand nothing has been cut out the body, on his, so it might be a virgin old CMC body. The man said he has had it sitting in his home garage for 15 years. Wow !
Good luck on your fiberglass repairs. I used to work in a surf board repair shop, back in the 1960's, but that is slightly different than doing work on a car body. Owned a few Corvettes in the past and did some repair work back in early 1970's on one of them, but cannot recall what I did.
If you were going to place fiberglass around a large corner, which is open and there is nothing there, but air, what do you suggest I use, behind the fiberglass to support it, while it dries ?
There are the many holes, let's see, count twelve of them, where someone tacked welded in the roll bar, which was shown in the ads. Happy it was only tacked welded as I used my angle grinder and cut most of the welds, then beat on the pipes with a big hammer and finally removed all the roll bar tubing. So, I am going to cover up those twelve holes with fiberglass.
In one corner, you know, the spot to the rear of the doors, they really chopped up the body for the two cross bars on the roll bar assembly. I am still trying to figure out and read somewhere, how to made some kind of "frame" or "support" in that corner, then place the fiberglass over it, for the same rounded contour of the body. I am not some expert with fiberglass and can lay it on flat surfaces, but large rounded ones ?? I will find out how good my skills are on this body.
I cannot afford a paint job at this time. The gel coat is not too bad, as I am very forgiving on this poor CMC body and later on, there are three bad area, where it looks like someone hit the body with a hammer. Nasty looking cracks, like you might see in a windshield, when a rock hits the glass, the spider shape and I can see those three areas extend to the underside, so they also need to be fixed.
I am going to find some books on fiberglass work on cars as on those three places, I think I have to grind down the surface , the diameter of the extended crack lines, then built it up again with the new fiberglass. It should take several layers and also need to do the same under the car. They are where I can get to the underside on the rear and one on the deck lid, so even with the car in running condition, later on, will fix those three spots. Going to patch up the twelve holes before I put in carpet or any material on the rear "seat" section and other area, before the carpet is laid down. You see, lots of work needed on this one.
I received the mess of parts ( call it an unfinished vehicle and it was barely together enough for shipment0 on August 1. I would like to be able to start driving the speedster by Oct. 1. But, had a 1600cc single port engine, which was up for sale and complete and was not having luck selling it, so planned to put it into the speedster, just to have some engine in it, for any kind of driving experience. But, sold that today, so NOW, I have to build a complete engine for the speedster and have the parts for a 1641cc with dual one barrel carbs, but need time to put it together.
I have a complete 2.0L to build for a customer for their 78 Bus, so work pays the bills, not me working on my speedster project. I did not have any repair work for 1.5 months, so really made some good progress on putting the speedster together.
A man called me and asked me if I would assemble his old CMC unfinished speedster . Ha, if I ever get mine finished, I will have some experience doing that, for him, but I hope he has a lot of money, as this is so time consuming work. I told him I would think about it and call him back, once I have my speedster in running condition. I understand nothing has been cut out the body, on his, so it might be a virgin old CMC body. The man said he has had it sitting in his home garage for 15 years. Wow !
Good luck on your fiberglass repairs. I used to work in a surf board repair shop, back in the 1960's, but that is slightly different than doing work on a car body. Owned a few Corvettes in the past and did some repair work back in early 1970's on one of them, but cannot recall what I did.
If you were going to place fiberglass around a large corner, which is open and there is nothing there, but air, what do you suggest I use, behind the fiberglass to support it, while it dries ?
In my VW repair shop and in my ads, I show doing everything, except body and paint. Some things, I am not good at doing. It takes patience to do the body work right. Building engines, I see results, every time one part going into the case, so I have more patience doing repair work on engines, brakes, etc.
Except for the body issues, I am doing a bang up job on putting other things on this speedster, as you suggested. As close to perfect as possible and like the chassis work I did, those other areas are looking good. Too bad, it does not go together like some Lego set. ---George K. ---
Except for the body issues, I am doing a bang up job on putting other things on this speedster, as you suggested. As close to perfect as possible and like the chassis work I did, those other areas are looking good. Too bad, it does not go together like some Lego set. ---George K. ---
Try mocking up the area with thinner cardboard (cereal box weight); you might be able to find it in larger sheets at a hobby or craft shop. Maybe some thin wood strips for supports to keep it's shape? Don't worry about glassing in the cardboard, as you can peel most of it off and then sand the rest away when you do the other side.
Hope this helps. Al
Thanks for the tip. It will be covered with carpet, but want it strong enough so if some fat person leans on that corner spot, it will not break my repair job. ---- George K. ----
George,
If you don't require a template larger than 12"x14" The Post Office supplies a 'Flat Rate Priority Mail' shipping box that is a stiff pressed cardboard about 2mm thick.
Being of a durable construction it would hold its shape during glassing, and being pressed two-ply it would easily peel away afterwards.
Try aluminum foil as it can bend and conform to contours needed. Commercial grade is stiffer. I saw you had some large corner area in rear "seat" area. Just be sure to taper both sides (back & front) of area for good adhesion. Put layer of cloth/resin on one side and once hardened remove and do layer on other side. Do as many layers as needed for strength. If you have hunks that were cut out, it's easier to use them and patch them in. You might want to mold pods for recessed speakers in that back seat area.
Wax paper works well as a release surface. There are micro balloon fibers that can be added to make your resin a peanut butter consistency.
I've used the automotive resin/bondo with glass and it worked well as far as holding form and not running out..
All the suggestions above will work very well. I have also used screen wire or hardware cloth to form a shape and then lay fiberglass cloth and resin over it. Build up both sides with multiple layers of cloth and resin.
Also, you can use the foam board insulation that can be found at Home Depot or Lowes for making forms. And plastic sheeting works like a release agent.
Make sure you grind away the gel-coat around the repair area and taper the edges around the area several inches. Build up the tapered area around the repair in overlapping steps to tie the new material into the existing area.
Originally Posted by James:
All the suggestions above will work very well. I have also used screen wire or hardware cloth to form a shape and then lay fiberglass cloth and resin over it. Build up both sides with multiple layers of cloth and resin.
Also, you can use the foam board insulation that can be found at Home Depot or Lowes for making forms. And plastic sheeting works like a release agent.
Make sure you grind away the gel-coat around the repair area and taper the edges around the area several inches. Build up the tapered area around the repair in overlapping steps to tie the new material into the existing area.
The Urethane foam board works a treat if shaping is necessary (NOT Styrofoam). Stick it with a little Bondo to the underside with some protruding on the finish side and sand to shape. A double layer of 1-1/2 Oz matt is applied, then break it away from the underside and lay-up at least two more layers. This will give you a quarter-inch of material to play with. If that's not enough, go for more underside layers (about 1/16th inch for each layer finished. Make the patches progressively larger.
Seems like a plan, to use free USPS boxes.
I mounted the rear view mirror and since my support rod is only 1/4 , not 5/16, the device to clamp on both the mirror and the support does not match up. Desperate to see the rear view mirror on the car, I had to resort to two small screw type hose clamps. I think EMPI makes some spark plug wire plastic clips, to hold the wires apart. The spark plug wires are not more than 1/4 inch, I think, so that might work better to hold my mirror in place. The screw clamps are doing the job, but look tacky.
Does anyone know the trick to adjusting the angle on the fender mirrors. Mine say on the back of them, Made in Germany. But, while there is some weird looking multi-holed screw towards the front of the car, on the mirror, I see no way to adjust the angle, as needed. It will turn up and down, but not change angle for viewing out the back end of the car, from the driver's seat position.
What I am overlooking on these mirrors and they came with the car and there were no boxes or instructions with them. Can you loosen the weird looking holed screw, then more the mirror, then retighten it ? Seemed like I attempted that, but got no results.
Help, how to adjust German made mirror. Should I learn how to speak German to it ?
---George K. ---
I mounted the rear view mirror and since my support rod is only 1/4 , not 5/16, the device to clamp on both the mirror and the support does not match up. Desperate to see the rear view mirror on the car, I had to resort to two small screw type hose clamps. I think EMPI makes some spark plug wire plastic clips, to hold the wires apart. The spark plug wires are not more than 1/4 inch, I think, so that might work better to hold my mirror in place. The screw clamps are doing the job, but look tacky.
Does anyone know the trick to adjusting the angle on the fender mirrors. Mine say on the back of them, Made in Germany. But, while there is some weird looking multi-holed screw towards the front of the car, on the mirror, I see no way to adjust the angle, as needed. It will turn up and down, but not change angle for viewing out the back end of the car, from the driver's seat position.
What I am overlooking on these mirrors and they came with the car and there were no boxes or instructions with them. Can you loosen the weird looking holed screw, then more the mirror, then retighten it ? Seemed like I attempted that, but got no results.
Help, how to adjust German made mirror. Should I learn how to speak German to it ?
---George K. ---
I will do the fiberglass inside and out. Boxes and/or aluminum foil. I also figured out using some 1/2 wide window screen wire, like they put on chicken or rabbit home made gages, will give me a rounded contour to lay on the fiberglass. I have some of the original pieces where were cut off my car and will use them in a few places, to fill in holes.
Got the gas tank installed with camper shell insulation tape, two layers under the part, closest to the windshield, to get the tank to clear the steering column shaft. That worked and used one layer on the other three sides of the tank, to prevent movement or the tank wearing it's way into the fiberglass body. It looks good and 'just' cleared the stock dual chamber brake fluid reservoir as I am using a two piston master cylinder, for safer brakes. Actually, he assembly manual suggested this brake fluid reservoir and I installed it where they suggested. To put the gas tank into its pre-cut hole in the body, I had to tilt the tank to clear the brake reservoir , but once down to the body, the tank clears everything.
Ran the positive and ground cables and tomorrow will start on the wiring. I do have the complete kit wiring harness and already installed the fuse panel and one relay for the horn, as they suggested. I have wired many fiberglass dune buggies and they are a bitch to work on, under the tight fitting dash area. On the speedster, there is more room to work in, so think this will go smooth, if the wiring harness was made correctly.
One thing, they don't suggest, which I do on all fiberglass bodies, is install a long grounding strip. The sell these at the auto parts places and it is just a metal strip with places to attach wires to it, for grounding purposes. On the rear, I use one long 1/4 bolt, for the ground for all the lights and devices I put on the rear of the car. That way, all the ground wires go to the same spot, not to 10 different places and you can make it look nicer and a cleaner wiring job. The long 1/4 inch bolt is attached to the body frame, which is already grounded, with the ground strap ,up front, from the battery. The speedster, with it's built in frame inside the body really helps to have a good ground location.
Seat belts are installed. Seat slider are in and adjusted, only need to slide the 914 seats in, which is easy and fast.
The last thing will be to install the engine and do the carpets. I am going to try to do the carpet work nicely and that should really make a big difference on how the car looks.
From 10 feet away, with a couple of beers, it looks good as one cannot see the cracks in some places, on the fiberglass. Outside mirrors went on easy, just don't know how to adjust them.
For anyone needing to attach some device, like a portable GPS to the support rod on the windshield, the EMPI part number for those spark plug spacers is --- 8747 , wire separators. That number is for the chrome ones.
Oh, those ground strips I buy from the auto parts stores are copper, good quality. Maybe, I found those at some electrical place or Marine retail store. It really looks good and makes for one place, under the dash for all the ground wires. You attach one wire from it to the steel frame, then there are six to ten places for attaching ground wires.
---George K. ---
Got the gas tank installed with camper shell insulation tape, two layers under the part, closest to the windshield, to get the tank to clear the steering column shaft. That worked and used one layer on the other three sides of the tank, to prevent movement or the tank wearing it's way into the fiberglass body. It looks good and 'just' cleared the stock dual chamber brake fluid reservoir as I am using a two piston master cylinder, for safer brakes. Actually, he assembly manual suggested this brake fluid reservoir and I installed it where they suggested. To put the gas tank into its pre-cut hole in the body, I had to tilt the tank to clear the brake reservoir , but once down to the body, the tank clears everything.
Ran the positive and ground cables and tomorrow will start on the wiring. I do have the complete kit wiring harness and already installed the fuse panel and one relay for the horn, as they suggested. I have wired many fiberglass dune buggies and they are a bitch to work on, under the tight fitting dash area. On the speedster, there is more room to work in, so think this will go smooth, if the wiring harness was made correctly.
One thing, they don't suggest, which I do on all fiberglass bodies, is install a long grounding strip. The sell these at the auto parts places and it is just a metal strip with places to attach wires to it, for grounding purposes. On the rear, I use one long 1/4 bolt, for the ground for all the lights and devices I put on the rear of the car. That way, all the ground wires go to the same spot, not to 10 different places and you can make it look nicer and a cleaner wiring job. The long 1/4 inch bolt is attached to the body frame, which is already grounded, with the ground strap ,up front, from the battery. The speedster, with it's built in frame inside the body really helps to have a good ground location.
Seat belts are installed. Seat slider are in and adjusted, only need to slide the 914 seats in, which is easy and fast.
The last thing will be to install the engine and do the carpets. I am going to try to do the carpet work nicely and that should really make a big difference on how the car looks.
From 10 feet away, with a couple of beers, it looks good as one cannot see the cracks in some places, on the fiberglass. Outside mirrors went on easy, just don't know how to adjust them.
For anyone needing to attach some device, like a portable GPS to the support rod on the windshield, the EMPI part number for those spark plug spacers is --- 8747 , wire separators. That number is for the chrome ones.
Oh, those ground strips I buy from the auto parts stores are copper, good quality. Maybe, I found those at some electrical place or Marine retail store. It really looks good and makes for one place, under the dash for all the ground wires. You attach one wire from it to the steel frame, then there are six to ten places for attaching ground wires.
---George K. ---
Okay, overwhelmed with fiberglass repair suggestions.
Thanks for the many suggestions. ---George K. ---
Thanks for the many suggestions. ---George K. ---
George, if you are already considering a bit of body work in other areas, you may want to consider moving your mirrors from the fender to the front of the doors. You may not have sat exactly in the driver's position yet and some who have mirrors on the fenders say the view from the Driver to them is obstructed by the windshield / posts etc.
Either way, no matter what make of mirror you have, the trick to getting the mirrors into a usable position is to take a Dremel tool or similar to the inside edge of the mirror stem, thus allowing a tighter angle of the mirror head towards your skull. But, then understand that the mirror head will not really like the loose fit and will hang loose until you install a shim, ( a C shaped plastic washer or similar works well) into the opposite side of where you removed material with the Dremel tool.
"What I am overlooking on these mirrors and they came with the car and there were no boxes or instructions with them. Can you loosen the weird looking holed screw, then more the mirror, then retighten it ? Seemed like I attempted that, but got no results."
Yes, put a small punch or other stiff metal rod through the holes and loosen the nut. Adjust the mirror and retighten the nut. If the mirror won't adjust enough, see David Stroud's suggestion.
Okay, never saw a screw with holes in it, before. That will take a small punch or scratch awl to tighten it. I will look for the other persons suggestions. I guess, somewhere in the forum topics ?
---George K.----
---George K.----
Okay, will try some of those ideas. I considered the location and it is close to what CMC assembly manual suggested and already mounted the outside mirrors on the fenders. Ouch, too late. I am only five foot, six inches tall. I might be using a pillow under me, if I find I am sitting too low or could possibly lift up the seat rails/gliders with shims. The 914 seats are firm enough and will tilt back , so just need to get the speedster where I can drive it and see what is needed for better vision. I know, once the convertible top is up, that really limits rear vision. I don't think too much consideration went into making this a rain proof car. With a short wheelbase, it should be easy to turn and park. Parking lots scare me.
The dremel tool idea sounds good. The hardware store sells nylon and rubber washers, which might be needed to hold the mirror in place, once adjustments are made to it. I can see I will be using the windshield mirror more and that , once I correct the mounting of mine, should work good. I see the outside mirrors more as there for looks.
I drive an old Beetle which never had a mirror on the passenger side, so used to turning my head, before I change lanes and move to the right lanes or back out of my drive way. I look several times, by turning my head and so far, that works. Well, I think my head works.
Thanks for the Dremel suggestion. I have a good one with many attachments.
--George K. ---
The dremel tool idea sounds good. The hardware store sells nylon and rubber washers, which might be needed to hold the mirror in place, once adjustments are made to it. I can see I will be using the windshield mirror more and that , once I correct the mounting of mine, should work good. I see the outside mirrors more as there for looks.
I drive an old Beetle which never had a mirror on the passenger side, so used to turning my head, before I change lanes and move to the right lanes or back out of my drive way. I look several times, by turning my head and so far, that works. Well, I think my head works.
Thanks for the Dremel suggestion. I have a good one with many attachments.
--George K. ---
Originally Posted by George4888:
Okay, never saw a screw with holes in it, before. That will take a small punch or scratch awl to tighten it. I will look for the other persons suggestions. I guess, somewhere in the forum topics ?
---George K.----
---George K.----
Okay, I'm not exactly sure which mirror you have. If it looks like mine it'll be just like this:
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Your windshield installation looks too good. I have the same mirror and your suggested Dremel cuts, did the trick. Just was a little touchy doing the cutting, but that allowed the mirror to adjust more angle. Those holes are where you have the Allen wrench placed. Sorry, I did not know how to describe that .
I think , after the mirror modification, it will stay in place, without any need for a nylon or rubber washer between the two parts. If road vibration moves it, I did buy two nylon washers and two rubber washers I can place between the two parts.
Thanks for the suggestion and that worked good . My mirror came with this old speedster, unfinished body and the mirror glass only has part of the plastic band still there. I think part of it dry rotted and fell off, but maybe, it will hold up, until later, I might buy new mirrors. A drop of super glue should do the "deed" to be sure the glass does not fall out. I need to polish the chrome and they had some of the old packing material stuck on the surfaces of the chrome, like some spray on protection, they had, for shipping purposes ? I guess.
Started on the wiring and I have the three sections mentioned by the assembly manual, but the main wiring harness looks too short to extend from the dash to the rear of the body. I have rewired many cars, doing my OWN harness work, and know exactly what wires are needed, so I might try to use some of the wiring harness which came with the kit, but also I don't like the small gauge wire, they used.
VW used 12ga. wire to the headlights, not 16ga. as the harness came with . My opinion is that the wire gage seems too small in size. 16 to 18ga. is okay for one bulb filament, like on the tail lights, but not enough for headlights, which pull up to 8amps. I see they did add ground wires in various places on the harness.
These speedsters are simple on wiring as there are not that many things to hook up. I am using an alternator, so that requires less wires, no external regulator. They mention a ampere gage in the assembly manual and I never use one. The "charge" light or alternator idiot warning light, on the one gauge is enough to show things are working. A volt gauge tells more information about a charging system and that is what is used on commercial trucks. Ampere gauge only shows how much the system is using, so it varies. The volt gauge shows charging volt amount and that is what is important, to know the battery is getting a nice amount of charge from the alternator or when the engine is off, the volt meter works like a test device to show the condition of the battery, before the car is started. Just the better choice, I think.
---George K. ----
I think , after the mirror modification, it will stay in place, without any need for a nylon or rubber washer between the two parts. If road vibration moves it, I did buy two nylon washers and two rubber washers I can place between the two parts.
Thanks for the suggestion and that worked good . My mirror came with this old speedster, unfinished body and the mirror glass only has part of the plastic band still there. I think part of it dry rotted and fell off, but maybe, it will hold up, until later, I might buy new mirrors. A drop of super glue should do the "deed" to be sure the glass does not fall out. I need to polish the chrome and they had some of the old packing material stuck on the surfaces of the chrome, like some spray on protection, they had, for shipping purposes ? I guess.
Started on the wiring and I have the three sections mentioned by the assembly manual, but the main wiring harness looks too short to extend from the dash to the rear of the body. I have rewired many cars, doing my OWN harness work, and know exactly what wires are needed, so I might try to use some of the wiring harness which came with the kit, but also I don't like the small gauge wire, they used.
VW used 12ga. wire to the headlights, not 16ga. as the harness came with . My opinion is that the wire gage seems too small in size. 16 to 18ga. is okay for one bulb filament, like on the tail lights, but not enough for headlights, which pull up to 8amps. I see they did add ground wires in various places on the harness.
These speedsters are simple on wiring as there are not that many things to hook up. I am using an alternator, so that requires less wires, no external regulator. They mention a ampere gage in the assembly manual and I never use one. The "charge" light or alternator idiot warning light, on the one gauge is enough to show things are working. A volt gauge tells more information about a charging system and that is what is used on commercial trucks. Ampere gauge only shows how much the system is using, so it varies. The volt gauge shows charging volt amount and that is what is important, to know the battery is getting a nice amount of charge from the alternator or when the engine is off, the volt meter works like a test device to show the condition of the battery, before the car is started. Just the better choice, I think.
---George K. ----
Electrical Installation
Been working slowly on the wiring of my unfinished CMC speedster. I have no idea what the seller sold me on the wiring harness he sent with the collection of parts. Like so many of the advertised parts, they are questionable or wrong. The front harness and rear sections look correct, but the middle section, which goes under the dash looks more like something one would see in a Cobra kit car, which has more gauges. The number of wires make no sense to me and also, none of the colors match with my CMC/Fiberfab wiring diagrams or follow their color coding.
I have used the front and rear wiring harness sections as they were easy to figure out, even with incorrect colored coded wires. I am not happy with the way the wiring harness was put together as I know VW used separate fuses to each headlight, one for low and one fuse for high beam, on each headlight. This wiring harness only has one wire, which feeds both headlights and no fuse set up for doing the low and high beam on separate fuses. Also, the wiring gage seems small, compared to what VW used originally. But, I am going to bless it and pray it works. I put one 15amp fuse from the fuse box to the light switch. Does anyone besides me note there is no adjustment on the replica light switch to dim the instrument lights ?
Perhaps, some speedster owners use the original VW light switch and that does contain the rheostat to dim the dash lights. Not a big deal as I prefer the full bight lights on the instruments.
Okay, I said I found the main wiring harness wrong or just a big mess to work with. I found two old 1970's Beetles, pulled off the main wiring harness and using two of the front fuse box ( on the VW Bug) to the engine compartment, as the length of the wires were not long enough from the stock Beetles. But, I have color coded wires, which follow the Bentley wiring diagram and makes troubleshooting in the future easier. The original VW Bug wiring harness worked really good and has large gage wires. Only missing was the few wires needed to connect the three 914 gauges I have on my speedster. Those are simple to wire up, so no big deal . On the need for wires for the tachometer, oil temperature gauge and any other sensor I put on the engine, I am making up a four wire cable, running it from the dash//fuse box area to the rear of the speedster. That should complete all the needed wires to have all things working.
Since I used a steering column from a 1971 Bug, connecting the ignition switch to the fuse box and to the wires going to the rear of the car was easy. And, using the turn signal switch from the 1971, in the steering column, also made the wiring easy. The arrangement or design of the fuse box, which came with the kit seems to be wrong. VW used at least 12 fuses in their 1972 Beetles. Few of those are joined together, as the replica fuse box has two banks of joined together fuses. It makes poor sense to not have the fuse arrangement the same as found on the Beetles, as the speedster has the same light set up, uses the VW switches, etc. I would rather see a separate fuse for each side of the car on the park or tail lights. The same way VW did it on their Beetles. Not, one fuse for the entire light circuit.
The joined bank of fuses, on the passenger side of the fuse box, the four fuses, those are okay, as they are on, all the time, so can be joined in that ON section, and do provide separate fuses for each circuit or device, like the horn, wipers, etc.
There is a lot of room for improvement on this speedster wiring. Using the bullet proof original VW wiring harness, from the dash fuse area to the rear, provides me with some degree of hope that all will last a long time. I could never figure out the "mid" section of the wiring harness assembly, sent to me with the collection of speedster parts and tossed it completely in the trash can.
Wrong color coding ? How do you figure out which wires goes where ? I used my VOM on continuity setting to test each and every wire on all the wiring harness, before installing it. Picked out wire colors which made some sense to me and tagged them with labeled masking tape. Once installed, I removed the tape. Both ends were labeled to speed up the installation of the wiring. Also, having worked and repaired wiring problems for 40 years on Beetles, really helped me. I have all the VW Beetle color codes in my brain, so that really helped speed up the wiring.
Two days , once I had the wiring harness assembled, as I liked it was the time frame needed to wire the entire speedster. I have pictured a nice grounding strip I bought from O'Reilly Auto Parts. As one needs on a fiberglass body, a place to attach up to 10 ground wires, this is a quality product and easy to install. I used two number 10 sheet metal screws to hold it to the fiberglass under the dash, close to the normal fuse box location. I ran one 10 gage wire from the ground strip to the front metal frame to connect the strip to the car's grounded frame.
So, my suggestions if you are putting together your own complete speedster replica is to use the simple and VW factory colored coded wiring, from some old 1970's Beetle, you find in the savage yard. Or, buy the complete wiring harness for a Beetle and you only need to add four wires, for the added items found on the speedster, so often used on the engine. For me, the "speedster" wiring harness seems fragile and weak, by design. Original wires, from the VW factory last 40 plus years with no TLC. I inspected and tested the VW factory harness, cleaned off the housing and it's good to use.
If any fuses blow, I am replacing the front and rear "speedster" wiring harness, which came with my replica kit with original VW gage wires, with more fuses.
---George K. ----
Attachments
Images (5)
IMHO the Vintage Speedster's harness is so easy to decipher and install, all you need to do is the additional dash wiring and relays....
I guess my wiring harness was not from Vintage Speedster.
Just trying to work with what I have and my money income is low.
Like I said, what I used was low cost and worked for me. Also, I did install it as neat as possible, not show quality, but functional and wires are all in wires covers and tucked away under the dash. If I ever put together another speedster, I will use your advice. ---George K. ---
Just trying to work with what I have and my money income is low.
Like I said, what I used was low cost and worked for me. Also, I did install it as neat as possible, not show quality, but functional and wires are all in wires covers and tucked away under the dash. If I ever put together another speedster, I will use your advice. ---George K. ---
CMC/FF had a 5 gauge VINTAGE gauge package which would explain all the extra dash wiring - plus their wiring kit would all the extra grounds that you need on a fiberglass car.