What's the best way to fix this?
(Also trying out the picture link for fun, hope it works!)
Thanx in advance,
Jerome
What's the best way to fix this?
(Also trying out the picture link for fun, hope it works!)
Thanx in advance,
Jerome
Original Post
What's the best way to fix this?
(Also trying out the picture link for fun, hope it works!)
Thanx in advance,
Jerome
Replies sorted oldest to newest
What's the best way to fix this?
(Also trying out the picture link for fun, hope it works!)
Thanx in advance,
Jerome
I saw it, but I can't really tell where the damage is. If it's just
that gray area, and it is just the gel coat chipped out on top and
not the fibreglass mat under it having been flexed and broken it's an
easy fix. If the fiberglass structure has been compromised, then you
need to build it back up with resin, and additional underlay support
including more mat. Describe it a little more so we can pinpoint it
in the photo.
that gray area, and it is just the gel coat chipped out on top and
not the fibreglass mat under it having been flexed and broken it's an
easy fix. If the fiberglass structure has been compromised, then you
need to build it back up with resin, and additional underlay support
including more mat. Describe it a little more so we can pinpoint it
in the photo.
If that is just a porious area ? fiberglass gel or powered glass
based resin will fix it. You will still have to die grind it a
little.
based resin will fix it. You will still have to die grind it a
little.
It is the corner edge of the thrunk opening. It looks like the
fiberglass underlayment didnot go completely into the corner and the
only thing forming the corner is the gel coat. I think this hapened
when I was fitting the trunk lid and it accedently slammed down and
cracked the gel coat.
fiberglass underlayment didnot go completely into the corner and the
only thing forming the corner is the gel coat. I think this hapened
when I was fitting the trunk lid and it accedently slammed down and
cracked the gel coat.
I would probably grind a it a little and put three small lays of
Cloth. I would cut a small cardboard form to reshape the lip and yes
do the suran wrap thing it peels off very well
Cloth. I would cut a small cardboard form to reshape the lip and yes
do the suran wrap thing it peels off very well
Thanx Barry!
That or maybe build it up underneath so you don't throw the outer
finish surface off. Then on top simply smooth it back up to grade
with a glazing, "gel coat" type finish.
finish surface off. Then on top simply smooth it back up to grade
with a glazing, "gel coat" type finish.
Go look at the red speedster damaged in under "Files" then "Papa
Johns Pizza Guy Damage" Look at the fender and the area below the
door to get an idea.
Johns Pizza Guy Damage" Look at the fender and the area below the
door to get an idea.
So, what's the hot tip for gel coat cracks? Have more than I would like and would like to make them go away (long term) before painting.
Gel coat cracks are generally a symptom of stress to the panel, where the underlay flexed, but the gel coat didn't. That's typical of a gel coat that is more rigid and harder than the resin and matting. First, did you fix why it flexed there? Was it a product of one major occurance like catching 5 foot of air and bouncing a couple of time on the roadway or a minor accident?
It it's just a stress area you may need to build up that point underside to keep it from re-occuring. Kinda spread the stress out over a larger area and reduce the flexing at that one point. Some of these shells get stressed in shipping, crating and handling. Some get hit and some of the rigid frames don't spread the flex out over a great enough area.
In any case, once you've decided that you've done what can be to reduce the reoccurance, I would ligthtly open up the gel coat by lightly grinding it open to a "V" channel. Avoid going deep into the underlay of mat and resin as this is already the flex point and you really only want it to be stronger. (I'd consider backing it up underneath with two inch and a one inch mat/resin overlay.) Next, get a polyester glazing compound (putty) and fill the "V". I usually take masking tape and run it parralel about a half inch outside of each side of the V. That helps me contain the first coat to the immediate area so I can sand it back out somewhat smooth. I even leave the masking tape on while I do the next step of sanding it out with 220 grit.
Then I remove the masking tape, surface prep a wider area like 5 inchs wide of the original crack, mix up another batch of glazing compound and feather the whole area in, planning to bring it up to the original surface shape. You'll know when you are done because it will be flush and smooth to both the eye and touch. You can use some spot putty and sandable primer to get it perfect. Then paint.
It it's just a stress area you may need to build up that point underside to keep it from re-occuring. Kinda spread the stress out over a larger area and reduce the flexing at that one point. Some of these shells get stressed in shipping, crating and handling. Some get hit and some of the rigid frames don't spread the flex out over a great enough area.
In any case, once you've decided that you've done what can be to reduce the reoccurance, I would ligthtly open up the gel coat by lightly grinding it open to a "V" channel. Avoid going deep into the underlay of mat and resin as this is already the flex point and you really only want it to be stronger. (I'd consider backing it up underneath with two inch and a one inch mat/resin overlay.) Next, get a polyester glazing compound (putty) and fill the "V". I usually take masking tape and run it parralel about a half inch outside of each side of the V. That helps me contain the first coat to the immediate area so I can sand it back out somewhat smooth. I even leave the masking tape on while I do the next step of sanding it out with 220 grit.
Then I remove the masking tape, surface prep a wider area like 5 inchs wide of the original crack, mix up another batch of glazing compound and feather the whole area in, planning to bring it up to the original surface shape. You'll know when you are done because it will be flush and smooth to both the eye and touch. You can use some spot putty and sandable primer to get it perfect. Then paint.