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Hey Guys,

I have looked at scissor lifts, 4 post lifts, etc, but wanted to ask if anyone here has a lift that just fits the speedster better than most. I have an IM, so I have full perimeter frame which will make it a little different I suppose, but I am looking for experience from anyone with a lift and how it worked with the speedster. safety is my biggest concern, then cost. I have also read the article where the original owner of my car reviews a bend-pak scissor lift, so I may end up going that route, but my druthers would be to have a 4 post lift or storage reasons (2 car garage, 14 foot ceiling).

James
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Hey Guys,

I have looked at scissor lifts, 4 post lifts, etc, but wanted to ask if anyone here has a lift that just fits the speedster better than most. I have an IM, so I have full perimeter frame which will make it a little different I suppose, but I am looking for experience from anyone with a lift and how it worked with the speedster. safety is my biggest concern, then cost. I have also read the article where the original owner of my car reviews a bend-pak scissor lift, so I may end up going that route, but my druthers would be to have a 4 post lift or storage reasons (2 car garage, 14 foot ceiling).

James
I agree, 2 post would be the way to go, but unfortunately I don't think I have the depth of concrete base to put it in. If I did get one it would be an asymetrical as well so that I could open doors and actually park something else under it. The thing I like about the 4 post though is that I can move it as it comes on castors. This way I would be able to get it out of the way if I needed to. I can get a really nice 4 post delivered to my door for about 2500 dollars, and an ok one for about 1800.

James
I have a 2 post lift with 230 volt, 1 phase motor. To work on most cars, I use it conventionally; by extending the arms to the appropriate car frame lift points.

For building the Speedster, I extended the arms as far and wide as possible with 2"x10"x8ft planks resting on the arms. I drilled the planks and arms, tapped the arms, and bolted the planks to the arms. I made 2"x10"x4ft ramps that I place in front of the lift planks so that I can push the Speedster up the 4 inches needed to get it on the lift mounted planks. It takes no more than 10 minutes to disassemble or reassemble when I work on other cars.

Once the Speedster is finished, there is nothing to prevent parking my other toy (forgroung in picture)beneath the Speedster.

Consider what to do if you have an overhead garage door to contend with.

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Another thought....If you are concerned with the thickness of your garage floor, consider that most 2 post lifts weigh about 1700-1800 lbs. They typically have base plates of approximately 2 square feet each. That means that you would spread the weight of the lift + the car over approx 575 square inches of floor. With a 4 post lift on casters, you concentrate all of the weight over the few square inches of contact between casters and floor.

Most of the 2 post lifts call for 4" concrete floors. Of course, knowing what is under the concrete would be comforting as well.
I have a two post lift. It has two swing arms on each post that extend under the car with square pads about 6 inches square that sit on a one inch threaded rod that allows them to be adjusted up and down to level the car on the lift. My SOB (Street-O-Beast) has a square tubing frame around the cockpit and allows me to lift it from the four corners of the frame and leave the wheels suspended. I can't imagine working on a project car on the floor.
Problem is....my friends and neighbors love it for oil changes and brake jobs and tire rotations.
I considered the four corner, ramp style, but opted for the two post for both space in the shop and allowing the wheels to suspend for general auto work. It is operated on 220 volts using the motor to power the hydraulic pump that lifts the car. Just be careful to balance the car on the hoist. Dropping any car from six feet or so could pose some real problems. I think the lift is one of my favorite toys--that doesn't have wheels.
So it sounds like 2 post lifts are preferred here on SOC, but one question.. who installs them for you? I couldn't find a single vendor that had an installation option for this thing... and being uncertain about how thick my concrete floor is, there a way to figure that out without drilling a hole?

James
Choose a spot the will likely be where you would place the lift and drill a small hole. There's no other way to determine the thickness.
For installation, find a friend with a loader or some kind of lift tool. It's just a matter of measuring, drilling and setting the posts. You would likely pay a hefty sum to get this done by "professionals". I found that Bud Lite goes a long way as barter.
We used my farm tractor with the front end loader to set them up. You will likely find it quite a savings to have them shipped to a commercial business that can unload them. If the freight company has to send a truck with a lift to a residential address, it'll cost you dearly. I also suspect the once on your garage floor, a small group of hefty gorillas could set them upright and inch them to their proper location. But you don't want to drop one on anyone's toe. I think three guys could likely set them upright with some effort and minimal danger.
The uprights for my lift were about 800 lbs each. I put a 4"x4" across several roof collar ties, and used a heavy duty "come along" with 3/16" cable to lift the top end of each upright. Once vertical, it could be "walked" into final position. Once there, drill and install floor anchors. Getting the crosspiece in place across the tops of the uprights could be difficut from ladders, but I had loft space on both sides of the garage bay with the lift. The most dificult part could be moving the uprights into the garage.
I have a 4 post Bend-pack lift, It was bolted into my cement garage floor. You could have it placed on wheels if you like. Installed,I believe it was $3500, with 7000lbs capacity. I can slide a full sized car underneath w/o a problem. Its the best thing, as long as you have the height. I had to reconfigure the power garage door so it would have clearance of any vehicle that is on the lift at the time. The door cost another 1200. They were able to use the Liftmaster motor I already had.
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