Back Fires

I've been living with a backfire since last fall (now back on the road this spring) that I have been thinking mixture. So I have been getting pretty knowledgeable with my dual Kadrons. Playing with mixture, volume etc... I did notice that the right Kadron wasn't dripping enough fuel.

But the POW was still there when I over accelerate and let off the throttle. In first, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. So today time to check the timing. I wanted to static time. I rotated the rotor and checked my graduated flywheel to see I was 15

Also check your intake and exhaust gaskets

Make sure the heads are torqued down correctely too. I had the same issue and it turned out to be loose heads.

Larry's advice on checking gaskets is the most likely cure....I don't know how many deceleration backfire problems I've fixed by just replacing, or tightening exhaust system flanges.....Check for cracks in the header welds also......

Good Luck....

I like the copper exhaust gaskets sold by CB and others. I have never "lost" one of those, nor have they loosened up and started leaking....

i had a dodge motor that backfired, we tried everything. pulled the heads and it had a burnt valve.

Mike--I had exactly the same problem when I drove my car home with 700 miles on it from Monroe, LA to Hot Springs, AR.

Local smart mechanic replaced the exhaust gaskets and properly tightened the exhaust and bingo---no more backfiring.

Later I had acceleration backfiring---same fix; new carb manifold gaskets and proper tightening.

--Jack

Mike.....CB Perf's copper gaskets will do an excellent job, and if you have a realy "BAD" mating problem, they sell a composite gasket that would seal just about anything.....

what kind of distributor? 009?

It sounds a lot like timing...

Mike, Timing is everything....the P***Y fart is something you can deal with, but the exhaust type is something you would prefer NOT to deal with...There is a fine line or area between the two....

Went for a drive yesterday with tools and played with the timing. It took 2 stops and now pulls great (no farts) and decelerates (no farts). I set the timing on eyeball about 8

If you have a 009 distributor, get a timing light and with a warm engine, rev the motor up to 3500 RPM's and check your timing. It should be 30 degree's before top dead center. If you exceed that, you run the risk of detonation. If it's less, you're losing power.

ther mechanics set it at 31 or 32 and extract a bit more power but with today's crappy gasoline (but expensive) I suggest 30 degree's maximum at 3500 RPM's.

By revving up the engine and holding it at 3500 you've made sure that all the mechanical advance is in and it can't exceed that setting

Ditto what Larry said. Every distributor might be different, some have 15, some have almost 25 degrees of advance. You really need to set it at 3500-4000 to make sure all the advance is in. Give the diameter of your pulley and I can tell you what measurement from TDC to make a mark to let you time it at 30 degrees.