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Hi all,

After a 2+ year hiatus, I'm back with a vengeance and a new acquisition.
I recall @GordonNichols telling me "Welcome to the madness" when I bought my first speedster years ago, and those words stuck. Glad to see many of the experts are still around and the willingness to assist remains strong.
To that point, I would value input on the following:
1. I'm trying to get additional information on this 2011 build by Kirk@VS. (He built great cars!) Sadly, I know Mary passed away a few years ago, and I don't know if Kirk is still active in the forums. His last visit here was 11/22.
Does anyone know where general information on VS builds could be obtained?
Perhaps someone recognizes this build and/or the PO is active here.
2. What's the best way to minimize these wheel gaps and bring wheels out a bit?
Spacers? - Which would be recommended ?
How about ride height adjustment? - any recommendations?
3.- This one has AC- and the condensation drain line came loose while I was removing the radio, and now I'm not sure where/how to reconnect it. Looks like it goes into the firewall, but cannot see or access any connection point. Stumped
4. Would like to add frunk chrome handle with logo same as my last one - what's a good source?
5. Lastly, what's a good source for mats for our cars? (Coco mats?)
Thank you all in advance.
Time permitting I'll be more active in this forum again, and posting additional pictures.
IMG_7609IMG_7848IMG_7849IMG_7850IMG_7851
Nestor
Miami Lakes, FL

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Images (5)
  • Front end
  • drain line
  • wheel gap1
  • wheel offset
  • wheel gap2
Original Post

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Nice modern rendition of a classic Speedster!

Coco Car Floor Mats (cocomats.com)  They should have a pattern for VS pan based Speedsters.

I think wheels look fine.  I put 1/4" spacers (a big billet alloy washer with 4 lug bolt holes) on front of my classic Speedster so the calipers cleared the Porsche 2L rims.  I'm using 914 long alloy lug bolts so no issue with length.  Not sure how far you want to move them out but you will have to ensure you have adequate length bolts.  @Gordon Nichols uses some on his wide body that bolted on to rotors and then bolted onto wheel - I recall him saying they were quite costly.  You want them to be high quality and not China-quality alloy.  Not sure what your wheel bolt pattern is - Chevy/Porsche?  I would also check front wheel bearings as they take a lot of force from the big offset wheels.  Find NOS German ones to have as replacements.

Sparco® - Porsche 911 Series 2006 Wheel Spacer

There are three typical types of wheel spacer/adapters out there.

1.  A spacer ring of 1/8" to 3/8" thickness that accepts whatever bolt pattern you have on your hubs (you select them based on pattern and thickness.  These are the easiest if you're looking for thickness of say, 3/4" max and are very rugged (IF they come from a quality supplier, like Pelican Parts.  I might not trust EMPI spacers because I have no experience with them).  

2.   A Spacer/Adapter that takes you from one bolt pattern to another, like a 4 X 130mm VW Beetle to a 5 X 130mm Porsche.  You can select other bolt patterns, like Chevy or Ford but I have no experience with those.  These are usually custom ordered and made of high strength Aluminum Alloy and machined.  They are very strong and you can expect to pay around $150+ per pair for good ones from Pelican Parts or places like that.  You can also expect them to outlive your car.  Make sure, with ANY spacer you buy, that it is Hub Centric.

3.  Asian Wheel Spacers - Are usually made from cast Aluminum Alloy, not forged or machined Billet Aluminum like those above, then lightly machined (if at all) to true them up and then studs are threaded in.  Often, they are chrome plated steel.  They usually cost under $50 each and should be avoided like the plague.  

Sources:

Best:  https://www.pelicanparts.com/search/?q=wheel+spacer

Next best:  https://www2.cip1.com/search-r...age?q=wheel%20spacer

Of course, the best spacer to use is no spacer at all but, instead, install wheels with the diameter, width and dishing (in or out) to position your wheels in the wheel wells so that they look good.  Wheels wider than the stock 4-1/2" will improve handling.  I used to run 6" wide front wheels and 7" wide rears, all with outward dish, and they were awesome.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
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