Bagged Coupe

Unless you're talking about the differential, in which case R&P = Ring and Pinion.

 

Kelly,

 

Good info.....Thanks

 

Here are some interior shots. Notice the fine craftsmanship done on the carpet at the base of the shifter.  

 

 

 

 

Love the shot w/ the palm trees in the background.

 

Good luck w/ the sorting.  i hope it is all pretty much small stuff.  My experience w/ JPS is that he will pony up advice and parts if they are needed to make something right.  If you have to incur the help of a paid professional, John says he'll cover that, but I bet that reimbursement process will be painful.  Let's hope you do not have to go there.

 

What's the chance you will bring this beast to Carlisle??  You and it have another few weeks to get truly acquainted.  Might work . . .

Cleaned car inside and out today....then went for a short drive.

 

Blew another fuse on the air ride. I'll get this sorted real soon....gonna see a guy this weekend about it.

 

Ran and idled great today....we'll see what happens next time.

 

Car had 13.2 miles on the odo when I pulled it off the truck....contract says it will have something like 200. lol

 

 

 

The paint:  to me, its just ok...found a couple of small scratches, minor blemishes and some swirling. The biggest problem is the rear engine lid....it will most likely have to be re-sprayed. (light wouldnt allow me to get good enough pics to show it--I'll try again later)

 

Most of this can probably be fixed by a professional detailer...some paint correction will be necessary though. Let me add to this by saying a couple things.    1. I'm a very neat, clean, like my cars to look perfect kind of guy...someone else may be perfectly content.   2. Even though its a "new" car I'm well aware that plenty of new cars from major manufacturers deliver vehicles with sh*tty paint, including Ferrari and Aston Martin (my detailer does paint correction on nearly every single brand new Aston they receive from the factory..true story)

 

 

As someone mentioned earlier. "Where are you going to get a custom built coupe?" ...I went into this knowing my choices were slim and none...that I definitely had to have a coupe...and that I would receive a well built car by JPS but to probably expect some "issues"....Once I get these small things sorted out I think I'm going to really love this car for a very long time. 

 

 

Pretty slim...I just dont think I'll have enough time to get on enough miles and sort a few things out. Also to be honest, I really do not like driving long distances. (anyone in Orlando going with a trailer?   )....But believe me, I would LOVE to bring it there! 

 

 

 

You're going to love your new ride, Brandon, because you have the right attitude about it.  You are prepared to do some sorting, and hopefully, that's all it will take.  Best of luck on a sweet ride!  

Sounds like you're taking a pragmatic approach so, yes, things WILL get sorted out.

 

I've noticed that all of the west coast JPS cars picked up at his shop seem to have significantly higher build quality than anything sent to the East Coast.  Probably from people stopping by periodically to check up on progress (even though we all know he seems to hate to have anyone show up - "Don't you trust me?") but the East coasters seem to be sucking the hind teat.

 

For the two Johns.....The reality on these cars is that they are, at best, sort-of 1973 technology (when VW was running front disk brakes on all models but still had 1930's-style, trailing arm front ends) and definitely NOT 2014 technology.  You guys remember how great cars were in the '70's?  I had a new '74 Pinto wagon.....talk about "basic transportation". The only thing it had going for it was hot water heat.  It couldn't even compete with a Datsun 510 and it handled worse than my '57 Beetle sedan!

 

These cars are (barely) basic transportation with a convertible top.  No creature comforts, no on-board diagnostics and, usually, a pretty harsh ride (unless you're running less than 20 pounds pressure in your tires).  

 

Some of us are happy with this style of basic transportation, some of us not.  fortunately, there's plenty of alternatives out there (but, in my very humble opinion, very few others that can compete in the "fun" aspect).

 

Thank You!

 

 

 

Seems to me the shifter should be covered by a nice red boot.  Awesome car.

No sh** Brandon, this car is gorgeous.  From here, that paint looks perfect.  If you have a guy who can make more perfecter (?) then RAVE ON!!!

 

And I get it w/ LD rides, esp'y w/ a rod like this.  Those low ratio tires and so forth are gonna be kinda harsh, I'm thinkin'.  But hey, a decent trailer would be just as cool.  Lots of guys (G. Nichols in particular) trailer their cars all about, esp'y to Carlisle.  It could work.

Since there has been discussion on fuel tank leaks let me add my experience with my coupe. The tank leaked at the sending unit when there was more than half a tank of fuel. The screws in the sending unit seemed tight, so I got a new gasket to put in. As I was taking the sending unit out I notice one screw was cross threaded. I cleaned the threads, put in the new gasket and put it back together. No leaks, even with the tank filled to the brim.

 

On engine noise in the coupe, it is far worse than any Speedster, but there is some history here. When Porsche was developing the 917 for endurance racing (1969?) the first car was sent out on the track to get some running time and the driver brought it in after 2 hours (built to run 24 hour races) and refused to drive it until they addressed the engine noise, he said it was painful. The quick fix, so they could continue testing was to cut the roof off and make a spyder. They did, and the test drivers were happy. Porsche later addressed the noise issue, because they raced the 917 coupe.

That said, I have to limit highway driving or use earplugs, because the noise inside the coupe can be painful. A radio will not solve this, I'm looking for other solutions.

First of all, I really like this coupe. It is one man's vision, and apologizes to no one. As it should be!

 

I hope you work out the bugs with the air-ride fuse-blowing. I'd trailer it to Carlisle too, it's too pretty for interstate use.

 

@John Engfer: about the noise issues. I have/had the same issues in my Spyder. Top down was never a problem, but put the top up and you will go deaf in a short time!

 

The problem is intake noise, way more than exhaust. Trust me on this, I put in the time and research. I changed my intake/air filters and dropped almost 10dB in the cabin with the top up. I also now use active noise reduction earbuds with the top up and now it is very livable inside. PM me, we can discuss this via phone if you'd like.

One of the things that is really prevalent with many classic, replica, vintage car owners is they all want the ergonomics and niceties they have grown so used to in their daily drivers often in a car that never had such things.

 

I know tri-five owners that bitch and moan about how their newly purchased nearly 60 year old 55-57 Chevy handles and rides, the cabin noise, etc...."Dude, it is a 60 year old car, the cheapest of the GM line back then, with all the warts, good and bad, associated with it...you want a car that really handles well, is quiet, has a dynamite sound system and has comfortable seating go to your favorite dealer and buy a brand new car, but the new car won't have near the appeal of what you have now. Learn to live with it and enjoy it!"

 

That is one nice coupe! I wish you well with it...

 

I'm a firm believer in application of sound deadener in any vintage car or replica, as much as can be used reasonably. I'm glad my Speedster had Dynamat installed in the whole interior and doors, it really takes out a lot of the road noise and 'plastic' sound common in replica bodies and the doors close with a solid 'thunk' rather than the common 'plastic' sounding tink.

 

 

 

 

 

Is this gold thing the sending unit?

 

I tightened the screws and it seems fine now.

 

 

That's it. Good job.

On Wed, Apr 15, 2015 at 10:50 AM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la>
wrote:

I don't disagree.  HOWEVER I think it reasonable to strive for the best of both worlds.  I would suspect with a Chevy if you spend enough you can have everything you want in a car.  Perhaps with one of these that could be applied as well.  My feelings are at this point  with just a few things fixed this could be a so much more user friendly.  Why would the builder not put as much sound deadening in the car as would be practical or at least offer that option?   I know now that there are better suspensions available for these cars and I can't hold anyone but myself a fault for not fully understanding the handling characteristics (which are not hateful don't get me wrong).    If I can either get the transmission whine fixed or be assured it's not going to come apart in the short term I'll pretty much quit complaining.  I'll live with the noise or take on the projects to reduce it.    

 

I do understand the realities of the madness and I don't want anyone to think I don't like my car, because I do.   Like the rest of you fellows I am looking for improvements.  Isn't that the goal here?    

 

How much improving should a fellow be expected to do?  That is the question which is essentially unanswered and will remain so.  I don't think I am being overly critical of the JPS car or of the builder.  I am also not just going to say it's 100% when it's not and while I don't expect perfection I do think I am justified in my concerns and complaints.  

 

Everyone's goal is different.  One of the fellows bought his car to show and I don't think he'll drive it enough to matter.  I plan to drive mine plenty.   So I'd just like to do what I can to improve the experience.  That's all….  If I can't then I live with it or do as suggested sell it and buy something else….Or have one built to my specifications at twice the money :-).    

 

See everyone in Carlisle and we can hack it over to extreme lengths.   

Yeah, but there's a difference between working it into a fun, driveable and dependable car and trying to turn it into something it was never meant to be...

John, I'm by no means tagging you as a 'whiner'...lol. Yes you can have the best of both worlds yet it can cost dearly in striving for that. Tri-Five owners can replace their stock frames now with C-4 based ones at around $15-20K just for the frame and suspension components...I've seen such converted tri-fives sitting for sale for month on end with $50+k price tags and they sit an sit with rarely a nibble. The owner easily has the asking price wrapped up in it, yet it is not a full blown custom that can demand such high prices, the market just is not there. At some point in  any build or project you reach a point of diminishing return on investment. You may have $50k+ wrapped up in your tri-five yet you may be lucky to get in the upper 30's-lower 40's...maybe...

 

I've pretty much always followed the philosophy of "Build a car for the use you intend to use it for"... you do not want to build a front straight axle 'gasser' and expect it to be a cruiser...LOL

 

 

I agree absolutely.  

My point exactly!

I think it was someone else talking about making their car into something
else. As I said, I took out an AM/FM/CD player and put in a German AM
radio. I'm also converting from power windows to manual. I like my car
simple and as original as possible. That's the fun part about these, each
owner gets to make it just right for himself. As I stated, I love driving
this car. I have never complained about the car itself, it is just too much
fun.

On Wed, Apr 15, 2015 at 12:27 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la>
wrote:

 

Sweet!!!

John's paint and upholstery guys remain among the best in the business. Sort it and roll it.

 

Sweet is right.

John, I'll see you in a month at Carlisle. I'll show you what I did to kill some of the noise.

new tires...

 

 

 

Wow. Are those the Surepops? or the Everdings?

 

Not a lot of rubber between you and the road. 

Looks sharp tho.

Ted

^^ Nankang 185/35/17

 

Thanks....I like these much better. Fronts only though. Rears are still 195/40

Brandon, step back and take some more photos of this beauty!

I guess you don't have potholes where you live? Those look awesome but you may want to invest in an alternate set if you plan on long road trips.  That profile looks badass but is adding more noises into the cabin.  May not be an issue if you are just tooling around FL.

 

Will try to this weekend if weather cooperates.

 

 

 

 

Roads are pretty good around here. I wont be driving it long distance....just around town, meets, shows, etc.

Drove a little this weekend....up to about 150 miles (delivered with 13) ..drives pretty well, feels solid, no problems or hiccups. Still idling too high though.

 

Even though John says the air ride and AC are on different circuits and AC should have nothing to do with the fuses popping I think he's 100% wrong. After putting approx 140 miles on it the fuse has never gone bad with the AC off....I've blown 5 fuses all within 10 minutes of turning AC on.

 

 

Dropped it off at a local shop I trust to:

-  adjust the idle
-  clean up the wiring

-  wires coming out of air ride not attached to anything

-  areas of excess wiring around chassis (3-4 ft) just coiled up and zip tied instead of cutting to length and taut.

-  something rubbing on setting 1 on air ride (lowest setting to drive)

-  install stereo

-  no head unit....bluetooth to my phone

-  (1) 8" sub ....its AMAZING how much bass can be had out of (1) 8 nowadays.                  Equivalent of (4) 15's from the 90's. Most people dont believe it when they hear it.

-  (4) 6.5 components

-  Amp(s)

 

 

Then after I get it back I'll need to sort out the paint. It looks fantastic from 10 feet but there are a few issues:   scratches, chips, touch up paint , overspray on rear deck and what appears to be a buffer burn on the hood.

 

As others have said....JPS' quality control on getting the details right is Garbage!  

 

No worries though....when I'm all done it'll be TiTs. 

 

 

 

"No worries though....when I'm all done it'll be TiTs."

 

T!Ts are good! 

 

I'm using all JL Audio equipment in mine. One-10" shallow mount woofer, 2-6.5" mid-ranges, 2-1" silk done tweeters, electronic crossovers, and a 500 watt 3 channel amp.  BOOMING!!

 

NICE!  

 

 

 

 

 

How/where are you mounting everything?  I don't remember if I attached a link to my stereo install before but it shows how I did my sub.

 

I'd love to check it out if you can post the link here.

 

 

- 6.5's in the kick panels

- box will basically take up everything behind seats….continue same red vinyl on box

- 8" sub in middle

- another set of 6.5's on each side

- amp somewhere in there

 

 

 

 

Robert,

What size alternator are you running?

 

We're thinking we will have to go up to 120amp?

 

 

The alternator is a Bosch AL82N which appears to be rated at 14 volts and 51 amps if I read it right. I never run the stereo without the car running.

 

The previous owner had already installed some 5.5" coaxial speakers in the doors so instead of reinventing the wheel I just made those larger and drilled another hole for the tweeters. I buil a custom enclosure that sits on the rear "luggage shelf" that houses the sub-woofer.  In using the shallow mount woofer I was able to keep the box to a maximum of 5" deep.  Here's the link:

 

https://www.speedsterowners.com...1#421965105856661811

 

Since the original install I moved the stereo further back.  The amp is up under the dash against the "firewall".

 

Thanks for the link….looks really good and bet it sounds excellent!

 

Appreciate the info on the alternator….after speaking with them today I think I'll be fine with a smaller one as well.