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I got the boots from CIP1. I added some oil drain plug washers to bring the order above $25.

 

This tool works great to separate the ball joints: http://www.harborfreight.com/3...separator-99849.html 

 

Put a cap nut over the threads.

 

I used safety wire around the big end of the boots instead of the hard to install springy thing. Don't get the wire too tight so you cut the boot.

Nice find, Mike. I bought a "pickle" fork wedgie type tool at Napa to separate my ball joints which requires a good whack or two with a big hammer and your tool here looks like a more elegant approach. Does your tool still require a bit of a tap when screw pressure is applied ? When you say "put a cap nut over the threads", what threads are you referring too ?....I haven't done this in a while. Thanks.

I have a pickle fork that I tried first. Even with good whacks it didn't separate.

 

Put the cap nut on the threaded end of the ball joint. This protects the end of the ball joint and the rounded top of the nut works well with the curved part of the tool.

 

Grease the threads of the tool.

 

This tool is also better than a pickle fork when you want to save the boot.

 

When I started taking things apart I didn't know I would be replacing the boots. the original plan was to remove my drop spindles and put back the standard ones.

 

I didn't need to do any tapping but it could be needed. Screw a little and tap, screw some more and tap again.

Last edited by Michael McKelvey
Originally Posted by David Stroud Ottawa Canada '83 IM Soob:

Thanks for the clarification, Mike. Now schu....an air powered muffler tool?  Never heard of that so are we talking about a pickle forked device that fits into the end of my air driven solid rivet gun ?

David didn't describe it fully; it needs a zenon powered muffler bearing made of super unobtanium to keep the assembly straight and work properly....

Last edited by ALB

I'm with you on that one, Ed....screw the boots, eh ? It makes ya feel real good when the bugger comes out. Could you imagine how you'd feel or who you'd call if you beat on the pickle fork like a Son of a bitch, everything is mangled and it's still stuck in place? The BFH worked for me too....but a bit scary. The pickle fork sure won't care or give any good advice either way.

 

Hey, Al...nice try. Zenon is an inert gas....could it  propel anything ? Just guessing here...let's ask Kelly Frazer....Kelly ?

 

Anyone remember the five inert gases from their high school chemistry class ?

 

H

A

N

K

X

 

I know what the first two are good for but not the rest.

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D
Originally Posted by BobG / 2110cc '57 VS:

       

Between my three dogs they produce all 5.


       


Ha! Good one.
I used to think dog farts were the worst. That was right up until the first time our new cat farted in my lap. Chemical warfare grade tear gas had nothing on this cat! I swear I think my eyes were burning.

What are we feeding these animals!?

David,

See Wolfgang's post above - great tool - it plugs into the front of a air powered muffler removal tool ( air chisel? ) that most people use in their garages for removing pans and metal etc. They sell that tool as well - 

I had the hand powered version of the pickle fork ( never worked well for me ) and saw the air powered one on Wheeler Dealer on night and picked one up the next day. Took me about 3 seconds each to remove the ball joints - very cool.

Never saw the one above that Mike mentions but that looks great as well.

 

I assume it's the little rubber seal which would be trapped under the boot, but around the threaded shaft or 'stem' as seen in the cutaway below? 


I *think* that's to keep the grease from oozing out from around the shaft/stem after  you fill the pocket with your grease gun via the Zurich fitting.

 

 

Maybe I'm wrong,

Ted

 

 

Zurich fitting, oh, that's priceless! But only on German cars, right?

 

I like the air chisel pickle-fork idea. I use the pointed(really a dull point) air chisel tool to get tierods out of steering arms, as well as ball joints. Leave the nut partway on and have at the threaded end, they usually come right out. If they don't, add a little torch heat and hit it again, it will come out!

Last edited by DannyP

You like that?   Most people miss my silly humor.

 

I'm glad someone gets it. You complete me.   (Zerk/Zurich)

 

Regarding ball joint ends: An old salt one time old me that you didn't need a 'fancy tool' to bust 'em free. He said "see the end there... right even and inline with the shaft? Smack it with the hammer right there on the end a few times and it will pop free..." - So I did. It's always worked for me. *shrug*

 

Ted

Last edited by TRP
Originally Posted by Carl Berry CT.:

Ted, when a person is short on experience with a big ignorant gap between the ears (as I have) they tend to be gullible.

 

I searched Google for info on what a Zurich Fitting is and came up empty...so

I made a note to myself to keep my eyes open for some used ones on the Samba since I'd probably need them in the future!!

OMG. I'm sorry.

 

It's spelled 'zerk' - i was being a goof ball last night.

 

T

Yup, that was us, Bob. Kinda corny I guess but we tried to take in as much as we could. Can't seem to cut and paste the photobucket pics anymore here but the run included the Cali coast up to Vegas, down thru the Hoover Dam to Kingman, Az, backtracked into Oatman, then back out to 66 hitting Hackberry, Peach Springs etc to Williams, up to the Grand Canyon and back down to Flagstaff, over to Winslow, Holbrook, Gallup up to Corez, Mesa Vere Park, Cortez, Durango, Taos, NM, down to Albuequerqe and East thru Amarillo etc. to Carlisle then home. If you haven't seen the pics you could email me dstroud at xplornet.com and I'll send the link. Some real memories there. Sorry for so off topic.

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