I am in the process of replacing the boots on my ball joints.
When I removed the old boots I saw another rubber piece around the shaft under the boot.
What is that for and how essential is it. One was a bit mangled.
Thanks.
I am in the process of replacing the boots on my ball joints.
When I removed the old boots I saw another rubber piece around the shaft under the boot.
What is that for and how essential is it. One was a bit mangled.
Thanks.
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I don't know the answer to that Mike, but where did you get the boots? I need to replace mine, but the joints are in good shape, just need new booties....
I got the boots from CIP1. I added some oil drain plug washers to bring the order above $25.
This tool works great to separate the ball joints: http://www.harborfreight.com/3...separator-99849.html
Put a cap nut over the threads.
I used safety wire around the big end of the boots instead of the hard to install springy thing. Don't get the wire too tight so you cut the boot.
Cool ball joint tool.....And I just happen to be going near my local Harbor Freight this Friday!!
Be sure to take your 20 or 25% off coupon.
This worked great for the tie rod end too.
Now I have to figure out how to tighten up the lock nut on the tie rod end without the thing turning.
Nice find, Mike. I bought a "pickle" fork wedgie type tool at Napa to separate my ball joints which requires a good whack or two with a big hammer and your tool here looks like a more elegant approach. Does your tool still require a bit of a tap when screw pressure is applied ? When you say "put a cap nut over the threads", what threads are you referring too ?....I haven't done this in a while. Thanks.
They also have a pickle fork that you can plug in your air powered muffler tool that makes very short work of ball joints.
I have a pickle fork that I tried first. Even with good whacks it didn't separate.
Put the cap nut on the threaded end of the ball joint. This protects the end of the ball joint and the rounded top of the nut works well with the curved part of the tool.
Grease the threads of the tool.
This tool is also better than a pickle fork when you want to save the boot.
When I started taking things apart I didn't know I would be replacing the boots. the original plan was to remove my drop spindles and put back the standard ones.
I didn't need to do any tapping but it could be needed. Screw a little and tap, screw some more and tap again.
You can use a jack to lift up on the bottom of the ball joint or tie rod end. This upward pressure will keep it from turning as you tighten the nut
Thanks for the clarification, Mike. Now schu....an air powered muffler tool? Never heard of that so are we talking about a pickle forked device that fits into the end of my air driven solid rivet gun ?
Thanks for the clarification, Mike. Now schu....an air powered muffler tool? Never heard of that so are we talking about a pickle forked device that fits into the end of my air driven solid rivet gun ?
David didn't describe it fully; it needs a zenon powered muffler bearing made of super unobtanium to keep the assembly straight and work properly....
I used the pickle fork and a BFH for mine. Took the rod ends and ball joints apart but ripped the boots. May be visiting Harbor Freight for this one.
I'm with you on that one, Ed....screw the boots, eh ? It makes ya feel real good when the bugger comes out. Could you imagine how you'd feel or who you'd call if you beat on the pickle fork like a Son of a bitch, everything is mangled and it's still stuck in place? The BFH worked for me too....but a bit scary. The pickle fork sure won't care or give any good advice either way.
Hey, Al...nice try. Zenon is an inert gas....could it propel anything ? Just guessing here...let's ask Kelly Frazer....Kelly ?
Anyone remember the five inert gases from their high school chemistry class ?
H
A
N
K
X
I know what the first two are good for but not the rest.
Anyone remember the five inert gases from their high school chemistry class ?
H
A
N
K
X
I know what the first two are good for but not the rest.
Helium
Argon
Neon
Krypton
Xenon
What do I win? (took me a bit to remember krypton...)
Ted
Between my three dogs they produce all 5.
Here's tool Shu mentioned - $9.90 less a 20% off coupon. You need the air muffler chisel tool too - another $10.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1...separator-66315.html
David- No points for creativity?
Between my three dogs they produce all 5.
David,
See Wolfgang's post above - great tool - it plugs into the front of a air powered muffler removal tool ( air chisel? ) that most people use in their garages for removing pans and metal etc. They sell that tool as well -
I had the hand powered version of the pickle fork ( never worked well for me ) and saw the air powered one on Wheeler Dealer on night and picked one up the next day. Took me about 3 seconds each to remove the ball joints - very cool.
Never saw the one above that Mike mentions but that looks great as well.
Can anyone answer my original question about the rubber thing inside?
I assume it's the little rubber seal which would be trapped under the boot, but around the threaded shaft or 'stem' as seen in the cutaway below?
I *think* that's to keep the grease from oozing out from around the shaft/stem after you fill the pocket with your grease gun via the Zurich fitting.
Maybe I'm wrong,
Ted
Zurich fitting, oh, that's priceless! But only on German cars, right?
I like the air chisel pickle-fork idea. I use the pointed(really a dull point) air chisel tool to get tierods out of steering arms, as well as ball joints. Leave the nut partway on and have at the threaded end, they usually come right out. If they don't, add a little torch heat and hit it again, it will come out!
You like that? Most people miss my silly humor.
I'm glad someone gets it. You complete me. (Zerk/Zurich)
Regarding ball joint ends: An old salt one time old me that you didn't need a 'fancy tool' to bust 'em free. He said "see the end there... right even and inline with the shaft? Smack it with the hammer right there on the end a few times and it will pop free..." - So I did. It's always worked for me. *shrug*
Ted
Ted, when a person is short on experience with a big ignorant gap between the ears (as I have) they tend to be gullible.
I searched Google for info on what a Zurich Fitting is and came up empty...so
I made a note to myself to keep my eyes open for some used ones on the Samba since I'd probably need them in the future!!
Ted, when a person is short on experience with a big ignorant gap between the ears (as I have) they tend to be gullible.
I searched Google for info on what a Zurich Fitting is and came up empty...so
I made a note to myself to keep my eyes open for some used ones on the Samba since I'd probably need them in the future!!
OMG. I'm sorry.
It's spelled 'zerk' - i was being a goof ball last night.
T
I was being a Yellow Jacket myself....
I've a compressor and a nice selection of variable strength rivet guns and that "air muffler chisel tool" sure likes it would fit my guns. It's now on my list.
You can get the tool with a blunt end and all that's necessary is a hammer if you don't want to buy the air chisel tool
You can get the tool with a blunt end and all that's necessary is a hammer if you don't want to buy the air chisel tool
I used the correct size pickle fork and had to really whack on it with the BFH.....I think I'd be happier with the impact tool.
Ted, that looks like it but I couldn't get it shoved down to where the ones are in your pictures.
Also, the stem is in an oval slot and the round "seal" wouldn't seal anything.
I don't have zerk fittings on my ball joints. My boots were full of grease when I started to install them but some came out while I was struggling to fit the big end of the boot in position.
Humm.... well, I'd like to say the aren't critical, but I just don't know.
Sorry, Michael.
Ted
David:
Is that you standing on the corner in Winslow, Arizona. Your such a fine to see. Was there a girl in a flat bed ford slowing down to take a look at you?
Used to live in Flagstaff and spent some time in Winslow. That Eagles song is my favorite song of all time, bar none. It attracted a lot of people to that little town.
Yup, that was us, Bob. Kinda corny I guess but we tried to take in as much as we could. Can't seem to cut and paste the photobucket pics anymore here but the run included the Cali coast up to Vegas, down thru the Hoover Dam to Kingman, Az, backtracked into Oatman, then back out to 66 hitting Hackberry, Peach Springs etc to Williams, up to the Grand Canyon and back down to Flagstaff, over to Winslow, Holbrook, Gallup up to Corez, Mesa Vere Park, Cortez, Durango, Taos, NM, down to Albuequerqe and East thru Amarillo etc. to Carlisle then home. If you haven't seen the pics you could email me dstroud at xplornet.com and I'll send the link. Some real memories there. Sorry for so off topic.
David, you're making us unadventurous 'stay-at-homes' feel badly
You too Rich!!!
Carl, all you need is weed, whites, and wine...and of course...a sign...
Hey Rich,,, How's that VW running?
Rich, that place looks cool. I am thinning about the 66 trip with my son next year when he is 18.
David:
Wow! You pretty much did it all. You had to pass through Twin Arrows and Two Guns on the way as well. If you'd have gone to Tuba City you wouldn't have been able to find a Tuba. The trading post at Cameron, where you turn off to head up to the Grand Canyon is one of my favorite Arizona places.
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