Barn find 1984 CMC 356 kit car

Love the find and lift to help out with great project. 

Just saying Hi and an update of pictures.   I have a pair of weber carbs on the engine   #44  IDF   39 2B would this indicate a larger cam ?

Not necessarily; 44IDF's can be made to run on a relatively stock1600, although 40's (or even the rare 36IDF's) are better suited for a smaller engine. What did the seller tell you about the engine?

No info from the owner.  So i am flying blind.  I will set the valves at .06 and we will see how it runs. 

Thanks

Rustrodsrule posted:

I will set the valves at .06 and we will see how it runs. 

It was probably just a typo, but to make sure, the valve clearance is .006".  Also, they should be set cold.

Make sure you have aluminum pushrods...

Steel pushrods are OK but they don't get set to .006.

Chromoly pushrods get set to loose zero.

Ok up date  Have engine ready to go back in.  Just curious what I have for an engine and what HP it may have. Engine # H5568771   heads CL 119  pair of weber 44idf392b.  intake manifolds see pictures.  Spark plugs Bosch  RO 148.   valve setting 0 Distributor out of a 1974 beetle no vacuum or centrifugal advance.

Thanks for any information Mike

Appears case started as:

H5 – 1968-69 – 1500 cc w/8mm oil pump studs which would be a single port intake engine w/44-50 hp --- yours appears to have been converted to dual intake heads/tin. Is distributor 009?

H  case motors are comprised of a softer material than the AH etc  Need to be careful with female threads on that case.

As has been said, it was originally 1500 cc's, had a single carburetor, single port intakes in the heads, produced a whopping 50hp, the case itself has the smaller oil passages and is known to be "soft". It was VW's first attempt at producing an engine that would survive the rigors of higher temperatures needed for smog control, and it's common practice to install inserts for the head studs in the engine case so it won't pull the threads at a later date. It's probably been rebuilt into a 1600, 1641, or maybe even a 1776 with stock dual port heads. With a stock camshaft it'll make 65 or 70 hp and with a mild aftermarket cam somewhere between 75-85 hp. Some good porting work would add 5-10 hp. Keep it within normal temperature parameters and it will serve you well. Al

PS- you mentioned setting the valves at 0 (should be loose 0- the pushrods should spin easily between your fingers); did you check that they are steel with a magnet?

Thanks for the info.. Push rods are aluminum and they do spin.  The distributor is a JFU4  043 905205   0231170034   type 149 mj  ?????.  Why no advance ??    Ready for wiring 

With aluminum pushrods it's normal to set them at .006" Loose zero is too tight. Your 034 distributor should have both mechanical and vacuum advance.

Some has removed vacuum and mechanical advancements from the distributor ?????

Rustrodsrule posted:

Some has removed vacuum and mechanical advancements from the distributor ?????

Yeah, that got my attention too. The only reason to have a locked distributor is either an industrial engine or aftermarket electronic advance(black box).

Buy Jimmy's 2276cc and be done, sell the old motor.

Rustrodsrule posted:

Some has removed vacuum and mechanical advancements from the distributor ?????

And ruined an otherwise perfectly good 034? They could have taken the guts out of anything else. Some people's kids...

Thanks for all the information.  I will set the valves at .006  and pick up a new distributor.   More pics  or wiring

Just got the engine back in.  Wiring coming along 

It's coming along. Did the air exit tin for the cooler get installed?

ALB posted:

It's coming along. Did the air exit tin for the cooler get installed?

YES

All the gauges are in wiring is finished.  So far everything is working.  Park lights on with headlights need to change park and tail to separate terminals. Great wiring harness from Rebel wire INC.  Plenty of length and very well labeled.

@Rustrodsrule Cool! Seems that you're making good progress, and thanks for keeping us updated by sharing those pics. 

Looking good!

A ground bar would really clean up the wiring.

I agree, Bill. I installed a 1/4" x 1" copper bar with four 1/4-20 bolts as a ground bar.

I also used long lengths of various sized heat shrink as well on the harness. Really cleans it up. I think I spent $20 on 10, yes 10,  4 foot lengths of various diameters up to 1" before shrink. Harbor Freight has 30 ft. spools of smaller diameter stuff too.

It does look nice though.

Some new pictures.  New tires painted the wheels.  Color sanded  it with 2000 grit. New side trim.  Buffed it and polished it starting to take shape.  Starts and runs good had to rebuild the carbs.  Next is the interior.