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To answer the question about the location of my battery cutoff switch, yes it would be a "vintage racer" thing. For racing the switch must be mounted in plain sight outside the drivers compartment so that safety workers can find it(required decal) and switch the power off. If you were using a switch just for security I would understand the hidden location, but my setup is for the "vintage racer" look. When I leave the car in a parking lot I just shut the switch off and take the key with me. It may also have that burglar alarm sticker factor to help deter potential car theives. As far as cost is concerned, the switch and 5 feet of battery cable and a couple of terminals cost under $50. I got all of my stuff from Pegasus Racing.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=IGNITIONELEC

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I put this one both 914 and the Speedster. $11.00 bucks, 5 minutes right on the battery under the front hood. If they want to steal it, they will steal it anyway (just roll it off..........not like they can't reach in and release the brake!).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Top-Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Cut-Off-Switch_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42606QQihZ023QQitemZ360081758705QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

just search ebay battery cut off switch. Saved my life with the 914 since there is somewhere on the body the wires are rubbed off and it drains all the time.

Fred Adler
San Diego

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  • 356 Back 200 hours
Per, I REALLY like your car.
I just hadn't seen any off-track cars with a switch that obvious -- and I thought the Permobile was in the elite league -- up there with Gordon's Pearl, Dusty's silver car and Joe Soltis' bronze monster -- that is to say, a fine diner rather than a cafe racer.
It was odd to me. That's all. I have one of those switches, too, but I buried it inside the chassis, out of harm's way.
Seeing Mickey's post and reading your narrative, I get it now. Right on. I'll take my foot out of my mouth now.
You really want to make sure that you buy the four prong battery cut-off switch, it's required for SCCA race classes and events and the only one that will save you if there's a fire due to an electrical fault or crash damage.

Shutting off the battery connection does nothing if the car is still running after a crash, you need to kill the battery AND the coil hot connection to be at all effective, both as an anti-theft device AND a safety switch.

The version with the red plastic key won't pass tech at any track, so if it's for anything other than show or fun, buy the one with the aluminum lever attached. SUMMIT Racing carries a decent selection of the real deal, as does Speedway Motors.

If anyone's gonna spend any coin, spend if right the first time out.

Just saying . . .


TC


OH . . . for SCCA sanctioned racing (most PCA and club events as well) the battery cut-off switch has to be reachable from the PASSENGER'S side, not the driver's. . .
Thanks TC, You are correct on all of the technical information on the battery cutoff switch and its correct racing location. I just wanted it in a location where I could reach it from the drivers seat. As far as the question on if the switch was for show, the answer is "yes", as I have no intention to race 1SXE-TUB, after all she is too SXE for that, and I did that back in the 60's.

Per Hans

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I've installed several battery switches on both Spyders and Speedsters. In every case, the owner wanted the switch concealed.

As stated, race cars MUST have the switch mounted on the outside of the car for the safety workers, (as explained above)

I buy the switches from Harbor Freight for $5.00 or $6.00 each and I use welding wire from my local welding supply store. Usually, I have about $20.00 in parts. It serves two purposes, if you have a parasitic drain on your battery, it totally cuts power thus saving the battery and, it "deters" car thieves. (remember, if they want your car, they will get it)

So. Cal. Edison cuts power on the negative side and we've been taught to cut power on the positive side. I've tried it both ways with great success.
"as the question on if the switch was for show, the answer is "yes""

In that case, it shows VERY well! Especially cool is the aluminum backing plate for the on/off/voltage transfer.

Did you make the switch surround yourself or was it supplied? It's a sweet touch. I was planning on putting a similar switch inside the gas filler door on the coupe, I think that I'll dress it out a bit more than planned. Try to mimic what you're done there. Maybe the switch inside and an aluminum backed transfer on top of the door, a handful of blind rivets even.

NOW I'm gonna have to think this through.




DAMN your good looks and stylish ways . . .
If the switch is postioned so that it can be reached easily then ensure the switch has the necessary circuit to prevent damage to the alternator. If you just want to use it as a quick disconnect (hidden somewhere) for the battery then I suppose it's acceptable to use the simple switch on the battery earth lead, but don't use it whilst the engine is running or you'll kill the alternator.

If these switches are used a lot they do tend to wear out. Symptoms then include difficulty in cranking the engine as the starter motor in effect has a nice big resistance in the way. In track cars we change these switches every year for this reason.
I just discovered this device in the Speedway Motors catalog:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2383,331_Memory-Guard-for-Electronics.html?itemNo=91064510

You put it across the terminals on the cutoff switch and it maintains power to things like the memory on your radio. If anyone tries to start your car it blows the 3 amp fuse in the device.

It is pretty interesting to browse through the Speedway catalog and see all the stuff available for street rods.
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