Ray has a Subaru engine AND a Subaru 5 speed. He needs a stock Subaru starter, which I believe is gear reduction stock.
All you guys are yammering about something he doesn't need(or am I wrong, Ray?).
But they are the shizzle for a VW trans. I love my IMI-101.
Your right Danny, subaru engine and 5 sp tranny, so all subie powertrain Normal Atmospheric Respiration. (non turbo) 
@David Stroud IM Roadster D You might like the starter that DannyP is suggesting for your IM AC engine.
It's already installed and running, Ray. Oddly, CIP1 in Canada supplied me with a WOSP LMS1101 geared Hi Torque starter for only $279 Canuck bananas and apparently the bugger was made in England. It cranks my 2332 hot or cold very well.
Great David.
Final report —- thanks for all the tips! I got a rebuilt starter for $150 compared to $800 at the dealer for a rebuild unit. I had never replaced a starter but with the QJ and a creepy crawler one hour later and I was back on the road !
Congratulations, Ray. Glad you solved the problem!
Thanks Michael! Living in the shadow of some of you guys is hard `
Looks like art..frame it!
Now, use that starter as it was intended. 
"Living in the shadow of some of you guys is hard"
Yeah, you tend to grow a lot of mushrooms that way......
@DannyP after reading here about starters.....i cant help but chime in....plus i get in another subtle dig at john boy....dr jekyll in his infinite wisdom used a cheap gold colored china made large diameter starter in my $40K car.... along with i'm guessing a very inexpensive battery....to save costs i guess, which i can almost understand....neither of which lasted a entire year.....i replaced both with BOSCH units which i believe are a quality product and they have been turn key since...i have learned in many cases in life , you get what you pay for....just words to the wise IMHO....happy motoring
The bling was in honor of Bruce @aircooled he knows how to shine things up
Now, whenever you park, you’ll have to slide a big mirror under your car so onlookers can see that shiny, new starter under there. Appropriately aimed LED spotlights would add to the aura at night, too. 🤔
Ok, I blame this thread for my recent misfortune. Yesterday, my 3 year old Bosch SR15N starter (don't hit with hammer!!!) quit working. My cursory examination is that it's just the solenoid (no voltage drop at the solenoid connection when the starter is engaged).
I replaced it with a gear reduction, high torque IMS-1101 starter that our island's VW parts store had in stock (amazingly). Works fine so far. It was rebranded as an EMPI part.
That starter is a good one to use. I've had mine since 2006 or so. The VW one(most probably a rebuilt unit from 2002) would heat-soak when I got gas. Every. Single. Time.
That was embarrassing, getting a push start from strangers.
I’ll bet the pushers loved to help!
It only happened twice, then I bought the IMI-101 and never looked back.
So the answer is I don't remember, it was 15 years ago. I do remember the embarrassment though.
Great stuff Michael, it is a sometimes humbling experience to get pushed around
@dlearl476 posted:Can you explain? I don’t understand what this is (and I’m wondering if it’s what happening to my Spyder)
Engine heat, exhaust heat, or any other source of heat causes the starter to get really hot which affects the solenoid causing it to not work which in turn causes the starter to not work.
@Robert M posted:Engine heat, exhaust heat, or any other source of heat causes the starter to get really hot which affects the solenoid causing it to not work which in turn causes the starter to not work.
Not to work at all?
I have a recently rebuilt Bosch. (By the local auto electric guy, not a Chinese factory) When I turn my car off when it’s hot, it sometimes acts like I have a low battery. Only once has it absolutely refused to start (my battery actually was low on that one, but also hot) Luckily I was two houses away from a friend’s, so I just went and hung out for a few minutes.
I ask because this only happens when my car is fully up to operating temp.
Yes, heat soak makes the starter either not turn, or turn so slow that it appears you have a dead battery.
In a Spyder(for those with Speedys), the starter is directly above the cylinder 1-2 exhaust pipes, as being mid-engine, that's the way the exhaust must go out the back.
Changing only the starter and nothing else cured mine forever(currently at 16 years of IMI-101 bliss).
I had the heat soak problem with my Bosch SR15N starter in the speedster. It never failed to start, but it would spin very slowly and pop the breaker I have on the battery. It no longer does this because the lousy thing finally stopped working altogether.
Since I've just done the research, here's the lowdown on type 1 high torque starters:
- IMI-101 - 1KW gear reduction starter - hard to find - https://vwparts.aircooled.net/...hp-1kW-p/imi-101.htm
- IMI-101N - 1.4KW gear reduction starter - https://vwparts.aircooled.net/...-9hp-p/imi-101-n.htm
- WOSP LMS1101 - 1KW gear reduction starter - https://www2.cip1.com/acc-c10-5767-wos/
- EMPI 17-2953-0 (just the WOSP LMS1101 rebranded) https://www.aircooledparts.com...ansmission-WOSP.html
In the meantime, I think I’m going to slap a heat shield on my starter and see what that does.
I’m going to be more consistent with hooking up my battery tender, too.
@dlearl476 posted:In the meantime, I think I’m going to slap a heat shield on my starter and see what that does.
Good idea. I was also thinking about header wrap to lower the starter temps.
@Michael Pickett posted:Good idea. I was also thinking about header wrap to lower the starter temps.
That was one of my winter projects that I blew off.
