Battery Installation

Man, nothing is straightforward with these cars! I changed the battery in my Vintage today, and while the actual battery installation was a snap, getting it tightened back down was not. It is held in place by two poorly designed bolts that (are apparently) wingnutted into the body, with a cheap rubber stap that goes over the top. I had to remove one of the bolts to get the battery out, and now I can't get it to stay back in. My condenser (damned AC) is blocking me from seeing anything.

I don't want to drop the condenser, but it looks like that's my only option. Does anybody have any advice? I'm considering just putting a couple of rubber blocks in the battery compartment to wedge it in place.

Go to the local parts house and look at their battery mounting kits. I have seen them that have bolts with 90deg ends that you can put into a hole and then position them vertical. They don't rotate when you tightnen the hold down nuts.

I took a couple of my old leather belts and made tie downs with those.

It gives the cars a little vintage / old school racing look. Size 32 worked without having to cut them.

Todd

Use Dale's method, the bolts slide in from the bottom of the battery box...I use fender washers for add'l support.
They also carry a black plastic piece that sets across the top of the battery and is secured to the long bolts mounting with wing nuts.

I like the finished look of using a black plastic battery box (they come in white with red top and all red too). These are available from marine centers for $10-12. They prevent battery acid corrosion from eating any carpet you may have in the "trunk". If you have room for a larger one than the actual battery it makes a good spare parts (bottle of oil, coil) or as a small tool box (just put tools in a sealed plastic baggie). These come with plastic hold down clips and a plastic strap.

http://www.nextag.com/Rubberqueen-M300-Hvy-Dty-531514140/prices-html

Although I never had to remove and replace the battery on my VS, I would have thought that it would be an easy task. The same operation on my rear-mounted battery in the Tubaru is a little more of a challenge due to its location and having to work inside the cabin behind the seat (folded forward) and with the top up.

Like anything else, after the first time, it's not a daunting task at all, but one that never the less makes you hope for long battery life ;-)

Johnny,

It wasn't the actual battery replacement. It was the re-installation of the two cheap, crummy poles used to hold the battery in place. The AC condenser makes it a real pain. I like the "old belt" method that was suggested, and will probably fix it this weekend.

Brian

Brian, I used to have the same headache. I agree with the idea of reinforcing the bolts from below and the alternative of using the belt. I like the belt idea better.
I'd contribute two things; one, I'd make sure to put a piece of hide leather or neoprene under the battery while you have the option, just to separate it from the bottom of the compartment (unless your hood seals are good and you don't get standing water when you hose the car off) to cut down on corrosion and crusty stuff down there.
Second, I'd make sure that chromie spare of yours is tight up inside the hood. I used to have to replace my battery every few months because they had what appeared to be Battery SIDS.
I had a perfectly good generator and didn't understand what was wrong until I looked at the placement of that spare -- it was sliding down and touching both terminals, creeping closer to the battery every time I drove the car.
You could also visit a speed shop for a battery box and mount it higher in the fiberglass bucket so it doesn't touch the bottom where the eye bolts are at all.
This battery box cost me about $20.