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My battery goes dead if I leave it for 2-3 weeks.  For the past several years I could leave it for the entire winter and the battery would not die.

 

Here is what I have done:

 

1.         Replaced battery, didn't solve the problem.

 

2.         Found that my sub-woofer was drawing power all the time and so Car Toys put in a relay.  That didn't solve the problem.

 

3.         I removed the negative cable from the battery and put a test light in the circuit and it was burning dimly.  I removed all 7 fuses from the fuse block and the 3 fuses coming off the positive battery terminal (amp, sub-woofer and fog lights) no change.

 

4.         I took the car to Car Toys again to have them check the amp and sub-woofer again and they found that the car is drawing .085 amps (less than 1/10th of an amp) all the time, with all fuses removed. We turned the kill switch by the battery and it still draws .085 amps.

 

5.         I took the car to Interstate Battery and had them check the battery and alternator.  The battery is good and they said that the alternator is acting oddly.  It doesn’t start to charge until about 2000 rpm and even then, it's only producing 13.4 volts.  When it's under 2000 rpm it's actually drawing from the battery.  They said it should be charging all the time and at around 14.5 volts.

 

So, what do you make of all of this?  How can there be a draw when all fuses are removed?

 

I figured it would have to be something that is drawing power from an un-fused line.  Or a wire that's shorting out somewhere.

 

But after testing the alternator and seeing the odd results, I'm wondering if this .085 amp draw is somehow related to the alternator?

 

Any thoughts?

 

Cole

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Old Yeler had my idea. I would try pulling the lead and seeing if you still have a draw.

Just to keep the battery up on my speedster when I'm not driving it, I bought a solar panel charger.  It was under $20 on one of the deal-a-day sites.  Does a great job of keeping the battery charged if I don't drive the car for a few weeks.  I know, I know, half the members here will just say "drive the damn thing", but that's hard sometimes.  I mounted the solar panel outside the garage and the cable is long enough to connect to the car inside.

-=theron

Great! While you're at it; if I were you I'd check into having the alternator fixed. Not sure if the smaller 356 pulley that's used in the VS's kills them quicker. I had mine go in less than 9,000 miles. Turned out to be the ball bearings; those were replaced and I kept it as a spare because I went for a Bosch remanufactured unit from Auto Parts Warehouse. Still working good. Also; when I won't use the car for some time I just disconnect both battery cables.

I'm having a small problem with what appears to be inconsistent or dirty power.  My radio will suddenly lose it's settings, my iPod will freeze up and I'll need to reboot it, I'll occasionally get very loud pops through my sound system, and I keep having this nagging feeling that it's something to do with the alternator.

 

I've had a battery place and my mechanic check out the alternator and they say it's okay, but I'm wondering if it's intermittent and they just don't see the problem when it's happening.

 

Any ideas on how to check for this?

How is your iPod connected?  Just through a 1/8" earphone plug or via a docking plug on the bottom of the iPod?  I suspect the latter, because using just the earphone jack won't affect the programmed operation of the unit and I suspect that you have an IP cable running from the back of the radio to the iPod, supplying power to the iPod and audio to the radio.  When you hear the "POP!" in your speakers, do you see anything else haoppening?  Like a flash or something with your lights?  The needle gauges (fuel, temp and tach) jump momentarily?  A lightning bolt and smoke coming from under the dash? (just kidding).... 

 

Soooooo..........

 

Kinda sounds like either the power lead running from the battery to the fuse panel is loose (but that would cause your lights to flicker, too), or the connection from the fuses to the radio/iPod is loose. It might be on the ground side to the radio, but I would bet on the power side.  If it is not an external power issue to the radio unit, I would then suspect something inside the radio, because it is affecting the audio amplifier (the POP!) as well as the slaved power feed to the iPod and THEN my guess would be a failing capacitor in the radio's power supply.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Cole: I feel your pain.  It can be a bear tracking down minor electrical issues.  In fact we were here until midnight last night tracking down a weird backfeed issue in a Spyder which turned out to simply be a bad 1157 socket in the taillights... go figure.

 

Since your head unit is losing settings I'd look at the yellow power wire (it is constant power) and start tracing back from there.  Also, from my experience, a voltage spike is often time translated as a "pop" through the speakers.

 

For what it's worth, we have seen a bunch of alternators (even new "Bosch" labeled units) that have been outsourced to China and they have changed the gauge of several of the internal regulator wires from (I believe) 16 ga to 24 ga and the internal regs can start to act crazy before failing.  Older remanned units seem to be better, or you can go to places like Century Dist.  Roger from Century modifies new units to correct this short coming.

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