beam brackets/chassis strengtheners

Anyone know where to get some of those tubular strengthening bars that attack to the front bean tubes and run rearwards to the Napoleon hat?

They look like simple bent tubes with tubing clamp at one end and either a flange at the other or bolt holes. Meant to keep the beam from moving at it's outer limits.

Can't find any for sale, but I seem to remember that they were discussed here at one point.

Any link or help or even the name that they go by is greatly appreciated, I sort of need four of them for a project.

Thanks !

TC

CIP has them - LOWER FRONT END SUPPORT TUBES for under $30

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26-413-151

There are German CSP ones that look the same but much more costly. Ouch $250!

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C31-498-001-111A

I've seen them for upper part of beam too - it attaches to the steel wheel well though so not for a Speedster without lots of work.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26-413-150


Good deal on both -
http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Offroad_beam_supports_p/frontendsupports.htm


Hoping y'all Northerners all get a nice White Christmas!

PERFECT, thanks a ton ! ! !



Sorry for the double post. Obviously a post so nice that I just had to post twice . . . .

Beetles in Thailand come stock with this, perhaps due to the crappy roads at the time? in any case they are now rusted POS and need to be replaced.

I made my own using 14mm R and L rod ends and a bit of tube.
Mounted them two ways now on different cars by using the stock clamp at the beam end with mounting tabs, and most recently by welding tabs directly to the beam.

The advantage of a rod end is that it can be installed slightly pre-loaded. Rather than running to the Napoleons hat, I welded similar tabs on the Sub-frame.

Easy, effective, cheapish, and very cool looking

Sounds like a good idea for the little Fiat for sure.

Right now I'm playing with the MGA,, trying to figure out a way to fit a VW torsion housing in place of the stock A-arm front end. The chassis rails come down into a nice neat configuration and I was thinking that I could grab up four of those strengtheners and fashion a tubular mounting set-up that welds to the stock MGA frame horns, with the upper tube running back to the diagonal upright towards the "fire wall" and ladder-like supports just beneath.

After looking at the quality of the clamps on the bars, it looks like I'll have to make my own using bits and pieces from a handful of old steering boxes in order to get tight/secure/accurate mounts to the torsion tubes. No biggie, just welding wire and cut-off blades.

I also have an old tube frame sand buggy that I could cut the front end off of and use that assembly/mounting set-up. I'd planned on making a trike out of it WAY down the like anyway, but it's also like money in the bank here in New England. Not many of 'em around.

It might seem like a lot of fuss, but I have the VW parts, know the network for getting more, and can build a beam in my sleep. The MGA set-up is like an MGB or a mini-Mustang II, but the parts are very costly, it's difficult to set things up for hard driving, few suppliers, and all of the repro rubber is trash. It arrives ruined. I don't understand these people.

So . . . thanks for the help here. I think that it's going to work out well. If it does, I'll let you know. If not, well, I make something up and post that instead.

TC

Here is that set-up installed on Terry Nuckels' Penny...

I like it !

Nice and solid and well built.

Thanks.

It certainly improves handling.
Well worth the money and it's an easy installation.

On my D I extended the frames all the way up to the beam where they and the bummper brackets share clamping bolts.. You bet ya!! its better to upgrade.

Terry - you really noticed an improvement with these?

Mango, I'd guess any additional bracing stronger than the standard frame head/shock tower combination would provide for a better cornering experience.

It looks to me like the intent is more to prevent the beam moving laterally side-to-side (like the way a hammerhead shark swims).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwyPU7BYl5E&feature=related

^ holy sh!t there must be 40 sharks there. my breathing would be considerably faster than the photographer/divers.

i get the idea behind why it should work, i guess i'm surprised the beam would flex that much. when i narrowed mine, i was surprised how thick the steel was/is.

The first time I terminated the bar at the car end like Terry but used the stock bracket with tabs for the rod end on the beam end.
The second time I terminated on the subframe 2x4 outboard of the 15mm plate that sits on top of Napoleons hat, with tabs for the rod end welded to the beam for a cleaner look.

Rod ends make it fit perfectly and one can preload it a bit.

Necessary and an improvement I do not know, but the factory saw fit to do it so I just did it a little better.

Mango, it's probably the cheapest bang for buck you can do, next to correct tire pressure.

ok - thanks.

added to list.

I really hate bolt on stuff . Sorry guys . In the chassis building industry welded joints are the best for strength and stability. TC post a few pictures of what you really want to build . I love pictures. If you were closer I'd build the dam thing for you. The front of my chassis does not move at all . I do not have to worry about the panhead failing due to fatigue stress.

Thanks for the offer Joe, I know that it's sincere !

My plan is to cut the front of the MGA chassis (A twin side rail chassis with several cross members, but no ladder or x-members.) off just at the front cross member where the upper and lower A-arms mount. I've measured things up and if I center the VW beam against this cross member, the wheel positioning and height in relation to the body and chassis will be perfect.

I'll mark and tack the beam in place and back cut the cross member to allow the very front portion (where the beam mounts) of the VW frame head to slide into place, then weld it to the remaining MGA cross member, cut the beam loose and fit it up to that welded section.

There is a second tier to the MGA chassis that helps with the bracing for the cowl and firewall, I'll run supported upper and lower end braces for the VW beam off of the top and bottom of this support structure.

All together, using the strongest portion of the MGA front chassis section and the front section of the factory VW pan, coupled with the end bracing, I ought to be in pretty good shape.

Of course, all of the reverse engineering, reverting to torsion bars from a more modern a-arms is because the MGA parts are a fortune and I have all of the VW parts down cellar. The time to mount the VW parts and pieces is about equal to the time it takes to tear down and rebuild the MGA front end, so time washes out and the money makes sense.

THAT'S what I wanna do, rest assured, all will be welded, no real need for holes, nuts. bolts or washers. Once it's in, it's there to stay.

Thanks,

TC

DU da DUda BUUUPPBBBUUPPBAAA. Were gona need abigger boat I like what Joe's done . thats pretty neat too.. how ever my extencion are out on the beam.. the driver side saddles are between steering stop and the steering box The passenger side likewise distane from the passager side shock tower.. It made it even more stable. I prably had Aaron upset in the mountians when wew were rallieing the other year near Ashville.. I stuck pretty close behind him. The car is exceptional from these extra mods It made it easy..

I think the center steer rack was the trick that put it over the top as far as handleing.

I just wish Vw still made it. It was a one year Only special option on the superbeetle in 72.. you had to special order it

But anything to stiffen and stablize the front Beam is (BOUND) to help ya. welded or otherwise.