Beck Front Running Lights Won't Work

I've had occasional problems with the running lights, but it's always been due to corrosion of the contact or a looseness of it against the bottom of the bulb.

...........check ground by temp running a jumper ground

If the rear and license lights work, and you have power at the front, must be a bad ground at the front lights. Both sockets wouldn't go bad at once. Alan +1

Thanks Guys.

I have checked the circuit with a tester and ground one end and have checked both wires with the running light switch on yet I get no light to the tester or power.

Alan,

Not sure if that's the same as running a temporary ground.

Lane and Danny,

I don't have any power to the front running lights so it's not a connection problem but may be the ground or somewhere the hot wire is not feeding the front.

It's driving me crazy (Madness ) I spent hours on it, the hardest part was getting the stupid gasket on holly crap that was crazy. I ended up spraying it with glue then cleaning it off once I got the head lights back in. And the problem is not fixed.

Thanks Guys,

Pete

IF you are using a VW-style headlight switch (and probably if you're using something else, too) the front "parking" or running lights are on their own circuit at the switch.  

One switch tab is for the rear running lights and another separate one is for the front. Most likely, that front wire has fallen off of the switch tab.  

If I get some time this morning (we have a grandson visiting this weekend) I'll dig out a vw wiring diagram and let you know the tab number on the switch, and then you can look for an unattached wire under the dash.  I don't believe that those lights would have a separate fuse, as they rely on the fuse for the entire switch.

stay tuned.....

Front running lights and rear running lights are fused separately on the fuse block, however they get their power fed into that branch of the fuse block from the same source (the headlight switch terminal #2 runs to the fuse block #4 and is bussed to #5)  So... if you have power to the rear, then you should have power to the front, at least up to the fuse block.

Front running lights should be fuse #5 (counting from the top down if they are not labeled).  With a simple 12v test light, check for 12v on BOTH sides of the fuse.  If you have power on the right side and not on the left side, then it is a bad fuse or connection.  My bet is that the fuse popped inside the end cap and looks good, but is actually blown.

If you have power on both sides but not at the bulb socket, double check your ground wires, and check for continuity of the power wire from the fuse block to the socket with a multimeter.  I doubt you have a break in the wire between the fuse block and the socket, so check thew other things first, but if they don't reveal the culprit, then a continuity test will be required.

And if you have a Bosch-style switch, then the front parking lights are connected to terminal "57" or "58", according to Haynes.

Thanks Gordon and Carey,

I did check at fuse box #5 it's noted in your 356 book (thank you for that!) I did have power on both sides of the fuse. I'll check that again though.

Thanks Guys, I'll get it, it's just a matter of time good Idea on the fuse never thought that the cap could be bad but from my old days I do remember that happening.

Pete

"My bet is that the fuse popped inside the end cap and looks good, but is actually blown."

Carey was right! When I looked at the glass type fuse it looked good. When I popped it out the end caps were loose. I switched with another of the same amps and I now have lights!  

Cool thanks would not have given that a second thought since it looked good.

Madness lesson learned.

Thanks to all.

Pete

I've given up trying to LOOK at fuses to see if they've blown.  I've replaced all my fuses with the ones wherein the top lights up when it is bad. Very easy to see under the dash when one is bad.