Beck Gast tank

Carey Hines might know

If not him Who?   

Ok, thanks. 

Carey WILL know.  He order them for the cars.

Do I just look on the membership list?

www.beckspeedster.com
>

Meade:

You could do that,  check the members list, or you could call him on the phone tomorrow at Special Edition in Bremen, Indiana or you could access their website and leave a message. Since they manufacture the Beck brand, they are your best shot at an accurate answer as to the origin of the gas tank.

If you are in a hurry, you might Google "characteristics of a super beetle gas tank", and compare it to what you have. There might be something that distinguishes them from other tanks.

You might try the Samba website for information.

 

I  figured that after I said that. I  cleaned out my tank for the 2nd time and I  got junk in the carbs. Maybe I  shouldn't  have put the old gas that i drained out, back in the tank...

Yeah, better to start fresh.

...I'm a little slow...

I will call Beck tomorrow.  Or email them today.

They can probably send you a tank as quickly and cheaply as anyone, and you KNOW it will fit.

Your not slow! You've been busting your hump on that car. You're doing great.

What's wrong with the tank?

I THINK there are particles (not rust) in it because, in spite of new filters, the carbs keep on getting clogged  up. The fuel lines are new/in good shape.

You think? Put a strainer under your tank and drain it or some of it again. What fuel filter are you using? Is it new?

 

The kind that's glass and has a replaceable filter.


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-------- Original message --------From: "SpeedsterOwners.com" <**************> Date: 7/4/16 1:15 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Meade <meadeduck@bellsouth.net> Subject: Reply By crhemi (Bill): Beck Gast tank

Somebody posted the process for cleaning a tank a while back. You might search it. Also, aren't there commercial places around that will refurbish your tank, assuming it is salvageable?

Not to complicate things, but those are known for leaking and breaking.  I strongly recommend metal filters.

I'm going to call around some radiator shops tomorrow and get prices. I understand they charge about a hundred and fifty bucks. I can buy a new one for $100 because I have contact with a Volkswagen place.

I already tried to fix it once Myself by using the compound called SLOSH. It usually works pretty well, but I left it puddle up, which allowed portions of the puddle to become dislodged.

the whole enchilada is that the new tanks come coated with who knows what so it doesn't rust,,needs to be professioanaly  cleaned or misery from then on with clogged jets..filters just don't get the small stuff, the jets do..

Actually, I've got the tank out and rinsed so I'm going to give it 1 more shot and see if it can keep itself clean for one more tankful.


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-------- Original message --------From: "SpeedsterOwners.com" <**************> Date: 7/4/16 2:03 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Meade <meadeduck@bellsouth.net> Subject: Reply By barncobob: Beck Gast tank

I would put some fuel in it and test before re-installing. Glass jar and a coffee filter should show any particles...

Best fuel filter I've used so far is the NAPA Gold 3031 metal fuel filter.

That's a good filter.  I'm using one very similar to it and they strain to 10-12 microns.  The glass-bulb filters strain fuel to the level of small pebbles - that's it, but Hey!  It's 75-year-old technology!  The NAPA Gold 3031 strains to the level of talcum dust.  Use whichever you like, but I might go with the NAPA one.

Also, once you have the new tank in there, flush all of the fuel lines with fresh, uncontaminated gas to make sure no contamination is left in the lines to get'cha.

If I remember correctly (it's been like, almost 20 years) I put about 100 1/4-20 nuts (They're cheap) into my 1969 VW donor tank, then strapped the tank to a farm tractor rear wheel, jacked the back of the tractor up, started it and ran it in 1st gear at an idle for about 60 minutes with dry nuts in there.  

Created one hell of a racket.  Good thing neither my wife or mother were there to hear it, so I escaped the usual self-serving explanations.  

The nuts agitated inside polished the inside of the tank, removing any remaining old sealer, rust, scale, dirt and mouse poop.  After that, I put in 4-ish gallons of water with a real good squirt (OK, about half a small bottle) of "Dawn" dishwashing detergent and ran it for another 15 minutes (with the nuts), then drained everything out and rinsed it three times, the first two times sloshed on the tractor for 5 minutes each, then a loooong rinse off-tractor with a garden hose.

Left it to sit for a week to dry with an occasional air hose put in the sender hole (every day or so)  just to change the air.  In retrospect, if I had had one of those old-style, plastic bonnet hair dryers like my Mom use to have, I could have just put the outlet hose into the filler and left it running for a couple of hours for the same effect and saved a week.  Just shows to go, NEVER throw anything out - you might...just...need...it in the future.  I should look for one to help start my "Big Green Egg" grill!!

Anyway, THEN I sealed the whole thing with a couple of quarts of POR-15 gas tank sealer, and Chris and I held the tank and rotated/angled it every which way we could think of to get that stuff everywhere inside, and then drained out what was left.  I could probably have used just a quart, but why use just one when two will do?  Left it for another week or so to cure (actually, I went off on a business trip) and then installed it.

Never had a lick of trouble with it and my rubber fuel hoses always have a nice, fresh lemony smell.

Briefly, I did the same thing, only used an old tire chain, didn’t shake it that much, but then used a bunch of degreaser mixed in with REALLY hot water, let it soak, drained it, rinsed it, dried it out, used some acetone, then used a quart of SLOSH. I turnedd it every which way but loose…then drained what was still liquid. I will try a different fuel filter.
> On Jul 4, 2016, at 4:e58 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <**************> wrote:
>

Gordon, 

I used the exact same process.  And everyone thinks I'm the only crazy one.   Lol.  

What was the tractor?  Looks like a Ferguson fender, but the wheel is all wrong.  Not too many gray tractors out there.

Regardless, the process works, even for us "Crazy" ones.

The right tool for every job, no matter what that job is.......  

Brilliant!

That is the kind of thing my father in law would have come up with. He farmed for 50 years with great success, 1000 acres of the best Illinois farm land, 1000 head of hog and a feed lot of 200 Angus cattle, and he raised all the grain he needed to keep them fed. However, based on the Rube Goldberg contraptions he devised and used on the farm, and the age of much of the equipment, you would have thought he was going broke.

By the way, some of you will know what I mean when I say the farm was all green, no red or any other color equipment. His eldest son put in 40 years with Deere and was their top welder and troubleshooter in manufacturing. Apple fell close to the tree.

You guys are the best.

 

Gordon I am LMAO at that proceedure.....i took a tank to radiator so and for $45 he boiled and did a great job cleaning it.

It is a '70 Ford 3000 diesel.  Not the correct color fenders and wheels.  I built the fenders.  Had wheels blasted and painted them machine grey because I had it.  Lol.  That was 25 years ago.  

BobG posted:

By the way, some of you will know what I mean when I say the farm was all green...

Bob,

Is this the kind of green you're talking about?  

That'd be it, James! Outstanding.

 

Gordon, I'd use your procedure, but a tractor has got to cost more than a new gas tank.

Besides, I'd put 100 1/4-20 nuts in and only 99 would come out. I'd then spend the next two weeks trying to figure out what happened to the last one. At that point, you really can't take the tank to a radiator shop and tell them you know there's a loose nut in your tank, but you just can't see it or hear it when you shake the tank. They would tell you who they think the loose nut is.

In the end, I'd just give up and buy a new gas tank anyway.

That's the difference between farm boys and city boys.

 

 

I missed the last part about the cure time. I used the gas tank sealer but I only left it cure for about two days; maybe that was part of the problem. I bought another quart of the stuff and a gallon of acetone(the SLOSH people said to rinse the tank out with the acetone to get rid of the first coat of Slosh and then redcoat with the new can). I tested the tank and it seems to be pretty solid with the first coat. I’m going to risk it and try to use the napa filter and use new gas and blow out the lines and the carbs and see if that doesn’t work. If not, off to the radiator shop I go.
> On Jul 4, 2016, at 4:58 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <**************> wrote:
>

Sounds like a plan, Meade.

Good luck.

...and...I  regis5the green car today.  My big question is, I'll come I can only drive  5000 miles a year?


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-------- Original message --------From: "SpeedsterOwners.com" <**************> Date: 7/5/16 8:49 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Meade <meadeduck@bellsouth.net> Subject: Reply By Gordon Nichols: Beck Gast tank

Cause that's the type of policy you chose...

Did you get a tractor yet?

Trust me Meade.....   Unless your another Jack Crosby, 5,000miles is a LOT.....

I'm just sayin'......

Hi Leon,  you are probl'y right,  but ...I GOT MY CAR REGISTERED YESTERDAY!!!!

A BIG thanks to Johnny Hudson in the DOR for walking my car through the process and pleading my case and getting them to drop some of the stupid extra stuff so I could get my ticket.