Beck rear end problem

I have the upgraded Pro Street Upgrade Transmission w/ 3.88 Final Drive, Super Differential, Heavy Duty Side Cover. Lately when I'm driving hard around corners and stabbing the throttle, it feels like only one wheel is spinning. No limited slip where the second tire kicks in. It might be me, but it grabed really hard when I first got the car.

I jacked the car this morning after a hard drive and I have some differential fluid leaking out of my side cover. I think something broke inside rearend. How can I tell if I lost my posi traction/limited slip without lighting it up on concrete to see if I have dual rubber marks? I did a burnout on concrete when I first got the car and I had dual rubber marks so I know I had it then.

Help!

Tony

If all you have is a Super Diff, it's not a limited slip unit. The difference between a regular diff and a super diff is usually 2 more spyder gears and thicker metal.

Raise the rear of the car, if one wheel turns clockwise and the other turns counterclockwise then you have an open diff. If in fact you did have a limited slip, both wheels still would turn the same direction, even if it was broken.

If you had limited slip and it was broken, you'd know it!!!!

Additionally, just because both tires left marks on pavement or concrete isn't proof positive that you had limited slip. If both tires had equal traction, even with an open diff, both tires would spin and leave marks. If you had butter under one tire and concrete under the other tire and had a limited slip diff, both tires would turn. If it was an open rear diff, only the tire with the "least" amount of traciton would spin.

In closing, when these transmissions are built, they are usually pretty "tight" thus giving the impression that they have limited slip or equal torque.

Thanks Larry. Since I posted, I did raise the rear up and indeed as I spun the driver side clockwise the other went counterclockwise. It appears to be either leaking from the boot, or the gasket that seals the side. I tightened the boot clamp and the bolts. I'm going to take it for another ride to see if anything leaks.

Thanks for the lesson on limited slip. I didn't know any of those facts. Once agin I'm over reacting; there probably nothing wrong.

Enjoy the day Larry. It's beautiful driving weather today in Michigan.

Tony

A couple more questions Larry. Is there a limited slip unit you can purchase? Is it worth it? What kind of setup do you have and most Becks in general?

Thanks Again

Tony

It's also pretty easy to do yourself. If you so choose make sure you carefully remove everything and note how it came off so you can put it pack the same way. The kit is only about $5.00 and (unfortunately) I can now do this in under 20 minutes.

I no longer own a Spyder, I sold it a couple of months ago and bought a 2002 Carrera Coupe.

99.99999999% of all Spyders have an open differential (no limited slip)
A limited slip differential is available for a VW transmission but it's a very costly item. Plus, if you have no tear down and rebuild experience with these transmission, the labor to install the unit is also costly.

More than likely, if you have oil that has appeared on the inside of your rear wheels, you have a leak at the end cap.
The wheel has to come off, The axle nut must be removed, (usually 300+ lbs of torque) as does the rear brakes. The bearing cap is removed and a new metal/rubber seal is installed along with paper gaskets. Any competent VW shop can perform this chore.

You can buy a Quaife differential for a type 1 swingaxle for about 1200-1500 bucks. The Quaife is of the geared/torque-sensing type; i.e. no fixed percentage of torque bias. Bias can be anywhere up to 90 plus percent on one side. I've never installed one, but I'm sure Larry is correct about needing to know how to set gear lash. Can be installed with a 3.88, but that's the limit, no taller. They have a website, a guy on Spyderclub installed one, named Ed Black.

Thanks guys for all the replies. It's not leaking from the wheel. It's from the boot or the gasket on the rear differential. I tryed to tighten the boot clamp, but it appears to be dribbling again. Any suggestions?

Take a look. The bottom nut becomes saturated after a while.

Tony

It's hard to tell if the oil is coming from the axle boot or the axle tube gasket. From the looks of the photo, do you have the one piece factory style boot?

If so, and it's leaking from the boot, remove the hose clamps, cut off the old boot, install a new split boot and make sure you put the 'split" on a 45 degree angle aimed towards the front of the car. (make sure the split is above level)

If the axle tube seal is leaking around the trans, this will require removal of the axle tube.

Anthony: I had a transmission leak and the problem was the "dimples" in the transaxle side plate that the boots attach to. It looked like the paper gasket was bad, but after I replaced it, I still had a leak. I took it apart again and sealed the dimples and that solved the problem.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!

Is their suppose to be fluid in the boot? I loosened the clamps on the boot today, retightened and it is now leaking like a pig. Before I loosned the clamps, I squeezed the boot to seee if I heard any air hissing and I did. As I squeezed I could see fluid leaking. The boot on the other side, when squeezed, didn't make a sound. It was air tight. Is this how the other side is suppose to be? How do I remedy??? Help

Tony

Anthony, look at my last post which is 3 posts above this one. It tells you how to change the boots.
The boots are designed to capture any residual gear box oil and keep dirt from getting into the axle ends.

The boots should be tight, if air leaks in around the clamps, then it will leak oil.

When you change boots as described above, make sure that the split is facing in the direction indicated. It places the split above the oil line and keeps oil from surging out of the split. The new boot will not be air tight so placement is critical.

The new "split boot" is designed to be replaced without having to disassemble the entire axles. The boot fits around the trans and the axle tube with hose clamps. The split is secured by about 8 or 9 machine screws, washers and nuts.