Beck speedster rear fenders spacing

The frame is bonded to the body and can't be moved.  I had an issue where the thrust angle at the rear of my car wasn't correct, meaning that a line between the two rear wheels was not perpendicular to the center-line of the car, but was off by a couple of degrees, causing a little "crabbing".  Carey Hines made a slightly shorter spring plate for one side that allowed it to be corrected.  Check to see if your wheelbase is the same on both sides.  Mine is an earlier (2006), Brazilian made car.  Since production moved to Indiana they've eliminated such quality issues.

Carey will have more info and car probably help you out.

Yes the wheel is definitely a few degrees tilted, the top part of the wheel sticks out further than the base of the wheel. Having it straight could be a solution.

 

I will be patient and see if M. Hines chime in on this thread.

Common problem on CMC/FF too - but usually on driver's side.  You can reduce the inside of the fender lip.  A real Porsche 356 doesn't have that lip hardly at all. 

Krusty posted:

Yes the wheel is definitely a few degrees tilted, the top part of the wheel sticks out further than the base of the wheel. Having it straight could be a solution.

 

I will be patient and see if M. Hines chime in on this thread.

I would just call him and talk to him directly.

Better to email him via their website because he frequently has his hands dirty. He's extremely responsive to emails www.beckspeedster.com
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Looks like you also have long axles and our old 50mm offset Spyder wheels, which will have your wheels/tires sticking out as far as humanly possible.  I've never seen that much of a gap difference, so make sure both sides have the same width wheels and size tires.  The wheel part number and specs will be stamped on the inside lip.

I'd verify alignment of the rear toe and lower the rear a bit to get some slight negative camber.  Once that is all done, then check your spacing.  No point in trying to determine the exact gap until he suspension is properly set.  It is not uncommon to have one side slightly tighter than the other, especially on the old Brazilian production, but I'd say 3/8" is about the most I've ever seen...    That said, we make a "rolled" lip around the wheel wells by building them thicker when laminating, so there should be plenty of material there if you need to clearance some away.

I did play with the spring plate adjustment nut to get the back of the car a bit higher to compensate for the quality of our roads up here.

 

I will check tire specs and try to lower it again to see if it helps.

 

thanks all for the help.

 

jc 

Raising the rear also has the unfortunate side effect of reducing caster, making the car feel less stable.  If you raise the rear you should also raise the front.