Been offered a 356 1600 engine but stuck- suggestions?

I wouldn't touch it for $15K. But if you were to buy it, for sure try to get it to turn over. Use some transmission fluid in the spark plug holes and let it soak for a week. Then try to turn it. If that doesn't work try Coke, as it will eat the rust and likely make it easier to break it loose. Plan on new barrels and pistons for sure, and maybe more depending on the mileage of the motor and how long it has been sitting. Lots of other options for $15k out there.

Coke is a good idea. Maybe offer $? Don’t see these too much Thanks

I’ve heard of using Coke, but a better solution is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and Acetone.  With the engine on a work stand, pour a tablespoon or two of the mix into each spark plug hole on one side, replace the plugs and then rotate the engine to put those cylinders straight up, so the mix will flow towards the piston rings.  Let it sit a day or two, then treat the other two cylinders the same for two days.   If it’s still seized, just repeat the process till it frees up.

Personally, I wouldn’t expect a real 356 engine to increase the value of a Replica.  A well-built type 1 engine offers more power for WAY less than half the cost of a 356.  

I would pass on it.

Of note: I have a set of pistons and cylinders from a '61 S90.  These would be the dimpled Nichrome cyls  and aluminum alloy fins.   Nothing wrong with them other than age -- they have been sitting for many many years. Recall that brand new, these piston/cyls would burn a qt of oil every 500 mi, as they were designed for racing. I swapped them out for the "standard" cast iron Super pist/cyl set to get away from all that burnt oil.  Further note: I have always thought that these cyls could be machined out and  steel sleeves heat shrunk in to get away from the oil burning dimples.  If you could use these, or know of someone who could do the sleeve machining to modify to fit your block, they could be yours for cost of shipping from MD.

if it is a replica .... Ask Pat Down to build you a new engine for that price.... unless of course you have the rest of the car that is also original

I'm a hard NO on this. I MIGHT buy a fresh or nearly fresh 356 motor for 15k, but probably not. You'd need a real 356 to put it in.

But since the engine is locked up, it's worth maybe $1000. You could sell the generator, shroud, oil filter, carbs, linkage etcetera if the engine turns out to be JUNK. Absolutely NO way to tell without a complete teardown.

Maybe it doesn't turn over because the rings are rusted in the bores. Maybe it won't turn over because it ran out of oil and welded the crank to the bearing shells. Maybe it won't turn over because a rod is broken in half and jammed into the case. Maybe it won't turn over because somebody over-revved it, floated the valves, and jammed one of them into a piston crown.

As Danny says, you don't know until you tear it down. At this point, unless I hear an engine run, I assume it can't/won't run and is worth (to me) whatever the parts that can be removed and sold are worth (on the open market). $1000 seems generous.

... but, a thing is worth whatever the buyer and seller agree it's worth. There are way, way, way less expensive ways to go, but the heart wants what the heart wants. If you want it for $15k, buy it for $15k.

I asked my best friend, ChatGPT, what it saw on the interwebs about Porsche 356 1600 engines and this was the response (similar to most above):

"Here are some general price ranges based on recent listings: Seized Engines: Typically range from $3,000 to $7,000. These prices can vary depending on the condition and the seller's reputation. Rebuilt Engines: Fully rebuilt engines are usually listed between $14,000 and $20,000. These prices can fluctuate based on factors like the engine's history, any included documentation, and the current market demand. If you're considering a purchase, it's a good idea to compare multiple listings and, if possible, consult with a professional to get a better understanding of the condition of the engine."

Buyer beware -- and informed.

Way too expensive. I don’t shy away from stuck engines if they were stored out of the weather and the price is right. I just unstuck a 1955 Vw engine that has been sitting 40 years. Turned out to be two valves were frozen in the guides. I got them free, inspected the rest of the engine, and buttoned it up again. Now runs, very smooth. No rebuild required.

Love that story!

Me too, but more often than not the motors are seized due to burnt rod and/or main bearings.

@edsnova posted:

Love that story!

Really?

@DannyP posted:

Me too, but more often than not the motors are seized due to burnt rod and/or main bearings.

All day long.

FWIW, I couldn't drive an engine that was seized and I got running with miracle goo and acetone. I did a lot of that sort of thing when I bought cars for $50 and drove them until they quit, then sold for $35 in scrap... but then again I was 19 and flat broke.

This is a car somebody should care about. If you had a stroke, and couldn't move anything on your left hand side -- would you get it checked out and try to recover some mobility, or would you say, "good enough" and move on?

Dude it’s not your brain it’s a lawnmower engine.

I'd tear the lawnmower engine down too.