Bench test?

I am trying to turn my engine over while outside of the car. I bought a large socket, removed the spark plugs and attempted to turn the motor over using an impact wrench on the crank nut. HAHAHA!. WOuld not budge even tho I could turn it over one half turn by hand pretty easily. HOw is that done? Do builders have a special jig with a built in starter in which they install the motor?
Please let me in on the secret.

You should be able to turn your engine over with a wrench on the alternator pully, with the spark plugs in. If you can't turn it over with the spark plugs out, we need more information. Like, when what the last time this engine was running? What's been done to it since then? Rebuild? Longer stroke perhaps?
Ron

I have seen them use a gutted transaxle with a starter mounted. The trans is solidly mounted to a frame and the engine is bolted to the transaxle. Add a tank for fuel and a fire extingusher and away you go.

Dale:
SOunds like something the average guy can't whip up in few minutes. ANd I do not think that turning by hand will bring up oil pressure.

In the shop I worked in we used the contraption described by Dale. In some of the VW mags I've seen advertisements of a purposely built unit.

From what I hear, you can do the same thing with a bus transaxle bellhousing. Supposedly the bellhousing on a type 2 transaxle can be unbolted from the transaxle and used. I have used a cut up type 1 transaxle bellhousing many times and had no problems to speak of. A word of caution though, make sure your fuel supply is secured and away from motor. If gets pretty ugly if the motor backfires and the gas is close by. One of the many valuable lessons learned.

ralph, you don't need to turn the motor to test it. you need oil or some other pressure in your galleys. you've gone this far. pop your oil pump cover off and apply air to the port in case or if your motor is full flowed use that port with a blow gun.
"laziness, the fuel of ingenuity" you'll find a way.
ps.i'm not saying you're lazy i'm speaking from the heart

Bruce, what a great idea!! Definetely goes into my file. The engine is back at the builders. He cut me a good deal on an OEM German mag alloy so we are off and running. SHould have her running in a few days.

Ralph, are you rebuilding your engine with a used case?

If so, why? New cases are cheap.

David; if the German case hasn't been align bored and it's in good shape, you're probably better off than with a new VW Mexico or Brazil one.

Old engine cases often have an accumulation of hidden defects including cracks, pulled studs, worn bearing saddles, warpage, and loose oil galley plugs. Many of these defects are only found after attempting to run your new engine - why take the risk when you can buy a new case for ~$350?

We all understand that and agree but notice that I said provided it was a known good case not having been line bored. All other things being equal, the German cases are superior.

The engine must rotate smoothly by hand,(especially without spark plugs) if not it will be very short lived.

Ricardo, not all German cases are superior to Brazilian or Mexican cases.
For example, the German H cases were too soft, and had issues with pulled studs - the B cases were too brittle, and had problems with cracks in the # 3 web area.