Best Tool to turn Flywheel nut for valve adjustments

Are you planning a tune up too?   If so, just pull all the plugs and relieve the compression.

I have been doing tune-up's on Type 1 engines going back over 25 years.  I have always used the alternator/generator pully nut to rotate the engine.  

 

If it is a high-compression monster, then @rstoll45 is correct in removing the plugs to reduce the compression.  Especially if your tune-up entails new plugs.  Start there.

 

Use the top nut on the alternator turning counter clockwise and pull the belt a little as you turn...I think the top nut is 19mm.  Maker sure car is in neutral.

Remember to turn the alternator/generator nut counter-clockwise. That way you can adjust the valves 1-2-3-4.

If the belt slips while turning just put some pressure on the belt with your finger.

Make sure the car is in neutral before turning the nut.

Jack up one rear wheel, put the car in second gear and leaving the other wheel on the ground. Turn the raised wheel and the engine will turn pretty easily

Terry-apparently we graduated from the same vw book!

I torched and bent a dog leg in a long handle open end wrench to get at the crank nut while clearing the protruding engine lid locking mechanism. Easy-peasy.

I've used a seriously big wrench on the crank pulley nut for years and never had a problem. Mind you, I don't keep my face right above the wrench while I'm turning the crank pulley.

True story: I knew someone that had the ignition on and attempted to bring the motor up to TDC with a wrench...happened to be on the compression stroke and not pretty when the engine actually fired up.~.

Fellas,

 

Thanks for the great tips.  I'll work with the Alternator nut, put pressure on the fan belt, and if necessary pull the plugs.

 

Do you normally use a jack on the rear wheels to gain better access to the valves? My car has been lowered about an inch and there isn't a lot of room to work.

 

Thanks again for the great tips. I am sure you saved me time and money!

Bill- What ever makes it easiest; if you lift it up remember to take the time to use jackstands. Al

One of mine friend commented on my 1.5 ton Harbor Freight jack the other day.  "Hope the car doesn't fall on ya".   I replied..."It might fall on the jackstands, but it won't fall on me".

If the belt slips when you turn the alternator nut, then the belt is too loose and needs to be tightened.  Download "Rob and Dave's Aircooled Volkswagen Pages" and print it.  It has the world's easiest valve adjustment method, which is what Terry suggested, but with a good step-by-step procedure, plus how to tighten your belt and about 100 other fix-it ideas.

 

With the proper belt tension, I never had  to remove the spark plugs.  Likewise I don't have to jack up my car to adjust valves--and it's a VS, like yours.  Just slide under the rear of the car, remove the valve covers and get 'er done.

 

Google "Chirco maintenance" for really good exploded views of all things VW.  My rear bearing seals failed and the Chirco info was used to replace the seals and bearings. (Failed rear seals is one of the messiest troubles as your rear brake pads will be ruined and the rear tires become slathered on the inboard sides with Xmission oil).  That ended well though thanks to Chirco.

 

 A good idea is to get an Owner's  manual for the year that most closely resembles your Type I engine---I believe for Vintage it's a 1972, but call and ask them.  It's also a good idea to get an owner's manual for the year of your pan for lube points, alignment, etc. These can be found on Ebay and aren't expensive either.

 

Doing your own maintenance is satisfying plus you will save a bundle of cash.  

 

Congrats on scoring a VS at Carlisle!

 

Bonne chance! 

  yikes

I know someone who forgot to remove the wrench that was on the alternator nut before starting the car.  It made quite a racket.

OR...  You could go buy a 30mm wrench with one end as a open-end wrench and the other as a ratcheting closed-end wrench.  Makes it very easy to spin the engine to wherever you want.

 

... or have a little space to roll the car backwards as you move from cylinder to cylinder. I once ended up a 1/4 of a mile away from my house because I had to adjust the valves several times...

 

 

Probably a good idea to disconnect the coil as a safety measure aye?

I just turn the generator with my hands. x2 on the "belt's too loose" advice. When my hands turned the gen and the engine didn't turn, I replaced the belt & tightened it by one shim.

 

No jacking the car either. Lie down on your side, put a shop light or flash light on the subject, walk off the valve cover bail with a couple 13mm wrenches, & get to work. 

 

Remember to make sure your disty is pointing at the number 1 wire when you set to TDC for the first valves. I didn't and readjusted them 180 out. Could not figure why/how they got so damn tight in just a few thousand miles. . . . 

Fellas,

 

Thank you for the advice. I just bought a jack from Harbor Freight, and I will be purchasing a couple of manuals on e-bay. This forum is absolutely Awesome! Great advise.

 

Bill

 When seting your valves.

   A 30 mm box end with a little bit of a goose neck is the best tool for turning a crank    I only pull plugs when I replace them  I start at Number one with the cap off  Starting a TDC note the rotor over  1 plug wire on the cap,  rotate backwards so I can go  1-2 3-4 at 1/2 turn  incruments.

 

Not so much a joke as you may think.

 

When I got my first (of three) BMW 1600's and 2002's in 1968 and tried my first tuneup, I was gouging the back of my hand trying to turn the crank pulley, as it was smack up against the radiator.

 

I asked a mechanic at the dealer how he did it and he said pull the plugs and the disty cap, leave it in gear, and rock the car forward slowly, watching the cam in the disty until it opened the points.

 

That's how I gapped the points and set the valves for the next 30 years.

For those who can count backwards you can do 1-4-3-2. Then there is no chance of loosening the pulley bolt.

 

I use a ratcheting box wrench.

To add what Mike said above, I turn the engine forward (Clock-wise) past #1 to set #4 (BDC) then to TDC for #3  change sides rotate to BDC for #2 then to TDC to get #1....get it...4-3-2-1. I still refer to the rotor for what cyl. I'm setting. And you don't stand the chance to loosen the pulley bolt.

I'm the tool that almost lost an eye adjusting my own valves.  Update, about a year later and the nerve damage has almost healed.  The headache stopped at about 7-8 months, but there are some numb spots on the top of my scalp still.  Almost ready for another adjustment, but I'm too manly to outsource it.  I'll be in a full-face helmet this time! 

My new favorite dodad is a crankshaft pulley bolt that has a 3/8s drive built into it like this one,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-TYPE-1-STAINLESS-BROACHED-CRANK-PULLEY-BOLT-/400540197594?vxp=mtr&hash=item5d420e62da

 

I use a long 3/8 wratchet , I also adjust in order 2,1,4,3  . Adjust both valves on one side , put the valve cover back on and then do the other side. While I have it in the air I change oil and give it a look over. Mike McCarthy

That is really nice!

 

Can it be installed with the engine still in the car or would the clutch slip?

I see no reason why you can't but it is a awkward position to work. Mike McCarthy

I'm with Mike's 9 June post; a ratcheting box end makes it easy.

You guys don't own big wrenches?

Lane, even so, I just ordered one of the broached bolts.

I just use a big f'n box wrench & turn it counterclockwise.  I tried ramps & jack, but found that I prefer leaving it on the ground.

Check that.  Clockwise.  I don't want to loosen the nut.

Stan you will have to ask my wife that question,hahahahah  Most of the guys on here do not know me , Alan, Lane and a few others may remember me. I am a mechanic , have been for over 40 years. I build VW race cars for a hobby and do almost everything myself including the bodywork and paint , so the answer is yes I have some big wrenches but I am always looking for cool stuff to make it easier. LOL Mike

Easier than putting a 30 mm wrench on a bolt head and turning? Of all the difficult tasks inside a speedster engine compartment (getting a socket on the manifold nuts?), putting a wrench on a crank pulley bolt doesn't fall within the top 250 or so. I'll take the word of the collective that it could be easier, but I'd have to see it.

 

A 3/8" ratchet doesn't sound easier to me.

The crankshaft pulley bolt is torqued to 33-35 foot pounds (or, if it's not, it should be) - even for cheap, Taiwanese "alloy" pulleys.  I have seen some that took over 50 ft lbs to loosen them (and one that needed an impact wrench set somewhere north of 150 ft lbs).

 

Even with a 10/1 compression engine the most resistance you'll see when turning it over, slowly, by hand, is (maybe) 7-10 foot pounds.

 

I set my valves by turning the engine over backwards (counter clockwise) turning the crank bolt with a 30mm box wrench.  A big one.  Always have, always will.  There is zero chance I will ever loosen the pulley bolt by doing this.

 

I also have learned, over years of hard knocks, to pull the coil wire off of the distributor when setting the valves.  It takes two seconds to do this but might, just might, save your life.

Good point on the wire, Gordon. Thanks.

 

I turn my engine with my hands on the pulley. Or sometimes with the fan belt. 

I rigged up a "plug in" switch that allows me to bump the starter from under the car. (while its on jack stands) Took a while to get used to it, but it works.....

I've almost maimed myself twice now, when underneath a car.

 

That switch would certainly speed up the process for me.

 

In my case, "stupid is as stupid does"!

 

I've seen others with a remote starter on their cars, but I just KNOW I would forget something and then hit that switch and "WHAM!!"