Natalie is 7 now with over 20K miles, and while driving around the crappy roads here in Michigan, it feels like either the ride has gotten rougher or the padding on my backside has gotten thinner OR maybe it’s time to think about shocks. Amy recommendations?
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Tom Blankinship posted:Natalie is 7 now with over 20K miles, and while driving around the crappy roads here in Michigan, it feels like either the ride has gotten rougher or the padding on my backside has gotten thinner OR maybe it’s time to think about shocks. Amy recommendations?
Eat more McD's and pad that backside?
I know the padding in the seats in my car has compacted over the last 11 years. You can actually see it. I am running KYB GR2 shocks on my car, but I really doubt that you need shocks at this point. My guess is the seat. STAY AWAY FROM THOSE TWINKIES!!! 
Tom Blankinship posted:Natalie is 7 now with over 20K miles, and while driving around the crappy roads here in Michigan, it feels like either the ride has gotten rougher or the padding on my backside has gotten thinner OR maybe it’s time to think about shocks. Amy recommendations?
Yes - stay off Michigan roads. They're brutal.
You can always have Bill redo your seat(s) over the winter 
+1 on seat over shocks. To make sure, you can test shocks pretty easily by taking them off and compressing them and pulling them to see if they a.) leak or b.) move too freely or not freely enough or not smoothly. Half-hour job or less and forces you to look at your brakes, ball joints, tie rod ends & etc. while you're at it, just to make sure everything's adjusted right/not worn out/not falling off.
Ed makes a good point - often the rubber insulators perish (Ed China made me say it). But as cheap as shocks are for VW, I'd just replace them. I too have KYB GR2 ones (white ones) - but don't know how they feel. Was always afraid they'd be too stiff. With all miles Lane had put on his car (and no complaints) I'd go for them. Oil ones (Excel) are like $18 each part # KYB343144 and gas-adjust are $35 each part #KYB5529. While I love Bilstein shocks on other vehicles at $80 each - they are probably way over kill.
take 2lbs of air out and test
Bill Prout posted:take 2lbs of air out and test
This is worth a try - I've been playing around with my tire pressures to better the ride. My last drive I had 18 front and 26/27 rear and had the best ride I've had so far. There was no highway on this drive though - just 2 lane black top.
I have been told that nothing else come close when Bilsteins are correctly valved. The problem is (I'm told) that Bilsteins for VW's (that is what we're looking at here) are valved for off road and therefore far too rough riding (especially the fronts) for a street car. Again, I'm told, for a small charge you can have them custom valved, and I believe they have a lifetime warrantee (they will rebuild them for free). Although they are expensive, they would be the last shocks you ever buy for the car. Al
The KYB GR-2 is probably what would suit you best, Tom. Firmer than COFAP stock shocks, but not too firm. Did you reset your air pressure when you got it back from your tire/rim debacle?
I had the GR-2 on my old car and they rode nice. I now have Koni adjustables(non gas-charged) and they are a little stiffer, but not bone-jarring.
I did notice that even the KYB's have a lifetime warranty to original purchaser. Order the KYBs fast as they have a rebate until 30 Sep 17.
Thanks for the tips. I run 24/20 & I checked after my rim debacle to make sure that that was maintained (per my instructions). It’s probably either the roads or my backside, but it’s almost that time of year for Natalie to return to @chines1 workshop to return, as always in the spring, better than ever :-)
Rebate link -
