Not really, just trying to get your attention.
I was hanging out with Al Gallo last week and we both had the same experience with a Rhino transaxle nose mount so I thought I would share our now copious, hard-earned experience.
Rhino mounts for VW type 1 transaxles are great. Carey Hines recommended them to me when I was messing with my transaxle and it is a nice fit with one, glaring exception; Using the front mount, if left unaltered, there is like, ZERO clearance for the socket or wrench when you want to tighten the nuts on the frame studs (and it's a 17mm nut). I found this out the hard way, after tightening mine as best I could with the only open-end wrench I could get up in there and then they were barely tight - so little that the ground strap on one of them didn't make good contact and my starter was barely able to crank the engine over.
Fortunately, for you shade-tree mechanics out there wanting to upgrade your transaxle mounts the same as the "Big Dogs", there is a very easy and effective remedy. Before you install the mount, figure out which are the two holes for the frame studs (the transaxle nose studs go in the other holes and IIRC there are three of them). The mount is basically a big, machined metal casting with the prothane material poured into it and cured. You need to relieve some of the metal of the mount around the frame stud holes to clearance it for the 17mm nuts and whatever socket or wrench that you use. This can easily be done out of the car with a bench grinder or, if you don't have a bench grinder you could use an angle grinder or Dremel with a HD cut-off wheel. You'll need to remove an about 1/8"-3/16" of material around the nut in order to get a socket onto the nut. Don't wory, there is plenty of mount metal left after surgery and you won't degrade it.
Do both sides the same and try a test mount to see if you've taken off enough metal - try installing and tightening the nuts to see if you can get on them properly. You should be able to tighten the nuts really tight without the socket/wrench slipping.
That's it. A little part prep before you start will save you lots of aggravation later on.
BTW, from the "Do as I say" part of the post; As I mentioned above, mine was already installed in there, so I had to remove the nuts and washers, then carefully get up in there with a Dremel from three different hard-to-get-at directions with teeny-tiny cut-off wheels until I got enough metal off to get a socket in there, all while not screwing up the stud threads. It would have been one heck of a lot easier, and a one-minute job, if the part was out and on the bench where it could be worked on.
