That cop didn't know whether to poop or wind his watch.
Yes the Hoopty has a lot of torque, but let's remember that in first gear ALL of our cars will generate a very impressive forward thrust. What did not happen here was very much acceleration. It was more like zero to 2 mph in 30 sec. Also, the grades were slight. What was impressive was the sturdiness of the Hoopty frame. That is what made this possible. I was there. I saw it. It all happend too fast for me to say: "What??!!! Are you CRAZY??" Maybe on the order of five tons of rolling stock behind the little Hoopty that could. Here's my suggestion for Carlisle '08: Let's all pitch in and buy Gordon a tune up for his big diesel-meister truck BEFORE he leaves Bahston.
Jack, back to your original question, I think there are a number of small ways to get more miles out of your car that have nothing to do with gearing or the powerplant itself. I was thinking about that while reading Kelly's post. He's right; my car didn't come apart like I thought it would while I towed the truck.
If you look around at the usual parts suppliers, like Berg and others, you'll find any number or bits to help brace your engine and transaxle. A tranny nose-cone bracket, supported by the front bolts holding the nose cone to the gearbox itself and tucked under the frame horns, can be used to prevent the transaxle from bucking with the engine's torque. That'll help preserve the shift linkage, the coupler under your back seat and the rubber bushing at the front of the nose cone itself.
A motor plate, used to help the engine not vibrate or rock side-to-side while it's running, is also a good idea with a high-performance engine. Bracing the frame horns by welding a couple pieces of steel from them to the structural steel vertically into the steel subframe of your car will also help with rigidity.
The less the engine and tranny move, the better the rest of the hanging parts will fare over time, helping to reduce leaks from hoses and pull on flexible parts. Electrical connections will fare better and the wear and tear on the body, decklid, etc. will be reduced by tying all those pieces together.
I also think it's a good idea to incorporate at least a couple hangers for the exhaust, if you can.
Kelly: The Queen of Torque, Angela herself, taught me my mantra:
"Yea, though I walk through the Shadow of the Valley of Rice, I shall fear no turbo, for torque is with me."
If you look around at the usual parts suppliers, like Berg and others, you'll find any number or bits to help brace your engine and transaxle. A tranny nose-cone bracket, supported by the front bolts holding the nose cone to the gearbox itself and tucked under the frame horns, can be used to prevent the transaxle from bucking with the engine's torque. That'll help preserve the shift linkage, the coupler under your back seat and the rubber bushing at the front of the nose cone itself.
A motor plate, used to help the engine not vibrate or rock side-to-side while it's running, is also a good idea with a high-performance engine. Bracing the frame horns by welding a couple pieces of steel from them to the structural steel vertically into the steel subframe of your car will also help with rigidity.
The less the engine and tranny move, the better the rest of the hanging parts will fare over time, helping to reduce leaks from hoses and pull on flexible parts. Electrical connections will fare better and the wear and tear on the body, decklid, etc. will be reduced by tying all those pieces together.
I also think it's a good idea to incorporate at least a couple hangers for the exhaust, if you can.
Kelly: The Queen of Torque, Angela herself, taught me my mantra:
"Yea, though I walk through the Shadow of the Valley of Rice, I shall fear no turbo, for torque is with me."