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I've always had thought to use 944 discs in rear - to take advantage of the parking brake often missing on conversion kits.

Here's book advert (I have a copy) with some pictures that covers process (may take a cut and paste link):
http://books.google.com/books?id=rWTbIiTcRk8C&pg=PA117&lpg=PA117&dq=944+porsche+brakes+on+a+vw+beetle&source=web&ots=5aIHwshned&sig=NKZ7pN8-xIuxo7My8xW5y7z5UVQ&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=5&ct=result#PPA119,M1

and good web site:
http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=409278
apparently there is a tech article there too.

Hi guys and thanks for the comments.
Alan on your point, why bigger brakes on a light weight car. My speedster is fitted with a Subaru WRX engine, in an effort to TRY and comply with Australian design regulations, words to the effect...."when an engine transplant is made that upsize the capacity, brakes of the size that the donor engine vehicle should be fitted."

Wolfgang thanks for the links, that one to the VW performance Handbook is really helpful and give he some good options.

thanks Bill

On the rear use 944 turbo aluminium trailing arms c/w with their rotors and 4 pot calipers. Cheaper are the steel non-turbo trailing arms and 2 pot calipers. Handbrake is inside the rotor hat like a Vette.

Better yet, do as I have done - 944T trailing arms, rotors and 996 calipers mounted on a bracket from VDub Engineering
Be aware of wheel clearance if using 944 trailing arms. The 944 trailing arms come in either 25 mm wider than stock for up to mid 86, and later arms are 50mm wider per side.
I have 17 x 8.5 Boxter wheels, and early 25mm wider arms on a flared CMC body

944 calipers are getting on in age and the rebuild kits are unobtanium.
996 are monoblock, axial mount, rebuild kits are readily available. Needless to say they are very powerful.

Now you will need bigger brakes on the front. I have the 996 fronts on a custom spindle and A-arms.

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