Hello Joe, I posted a reply in July-2006 that sounds like this answer will fit. Look under "Difference in L and R rear body to tire spacing" for the link.
The following is an exert from that page.
posted 7/21/2006 12:03:07 PM
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Hello Ignacio,
I'll get shot for this one, but here go's: Welcome to the help desk of the Crucified Metal Chassis (CMC) that your speedster is setting on.
That being said, you can try a few things that I have seen done to eliminate tire to body clearance issues. You can take the washers from under the pivot on the inboard end of the IRS trailing arms and put them back under the head of the bolt, this will only give you about an 1/8" to 3/16" more tire inset. You can have the inside of the brake drum bearing mating surface machined down about an 1/8", this will inset the drum/wheel assembly in as well. You can grind the inside lip of the fender up to about 3/8", this varies a lot with the glass thickness. Or my favorite, the broom stick approach.
Yea..., a broom stick. Cut a piece of broom stick about a 1/2" to 3/4" longer than the inside fender well to body clearance. Stick this in between the inside of the fender and the body a few inches off the back of the tire to force the fender out for more tire clearance..., that simple.
Of course I'd probably use a piece of 3/4" plywood and glass it in place to spread the body flex load at the area being forced out. Now don't go wild in doing this..., only use this to bow the back fender well out about 1/2" to 3/4". I've seen many spider cracks develope by bowing fiberglass and giving it some time and vibration. One other thing, after putting the stick in the fender well area and attaining your optimum tire clearance..., take a walk back about a hundred feet or so, and just like checking a girl out from the back end, make sure she's symmetrical.
My 2 cents, David
