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Looking at a CMC 356. Did some measuring and found the rear left is 7 cm from axle nut to fender and right is 6cm--offset by .5 cm. Is this a problem????? The left rear tire rubs when rolled. Fingers project to first knuckle under wheel well top on left and to 2nd knuckle on right so this body is "slightly" off center. There are slight differences between front wheels (data is at home). Has the usual butt sag and looks like rear torsion plates could use adjusting--left sags more than right--same as my 68 Ghia Vert--almost 2 cm off. Upper door gaps are spread--rest of gaps look perfect. Looks like there is a support on top of front beam.

 

So, would like to do this right. Have needed VW skills to do most work myself but have to make a decision on purchasing this CMC. Price is at $7500. Has disc front and read, clean but dated interior, great pan, sway bars in rear-dual dells-deep sump-oil filter-been sitting for 4 years in garage-missing front hood trim. Was built by engineer that owned several VW's over the years. Has since passed and being offered by widow that has very little documentation and knowledge.  

 

Yes, If I jump I will become a paying member. See my 68 Cherry Red Karmann Ghia Vert currently on Ebay 

 

Thanks-David

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Butt sag is a common issue with Fiber-fab/CMC cars. Look in the resources section of this forum  for info on how to correct the problems. My CMC has the same wheel to tire fitment problems. But I converted my car from 4 lug to wide 5 thus making it even more complicated LOL. I had to shave the inside of the wheel well a touch and trim the wheel lip just a bit to get the clearance I needed. I did this after the paint was done, but you can never spot the correction. $7500 is not a bad price for a complete car with all you mentioned. Pictures posted would be a great start, I'm sure that there are more that a few members that could help you 

The left rear wheel rub/closeness is a standard issue with CMC's.  Some say it is due to the shape of the mold.  Several fixes. Carefully grind the inner/upper lip down.  Get offset rear wheels, or have yours cut. If it doesn't rub; leave it alone and check tire regularly.

I have yet to do anything about my left rear.  I was hoping that when I correct my butt sag, things would be different, or at least make that change and reassess the other issue. 

 

There many with more CMC experience than I, they will chime in here soon.

 

Art

When mounting CMC body to my VW pan - I played with aligning it so rear fender clearance was same.  Was impossible.  I'm guessing mold was off or the steel sub-chassis was attached to fiberglass slightly off.  .5 cm --- you are only one who will ever notice!  You can grind by wheel well opening and even inside of wheel well. These are chopper gun fiberglass shells and the thickness of fiberglass varies greatly.  Recently looked at fellow SOCers VS and he pointed out same discrepancy in body on his. He believes mold was made from a damaged original 356 years ago and never corrected - he may be right! As long as 4 wheels are aligned to go down the road straight - body orientation won's matter as long as it clears your tire/rim combo.

 

Yes there is a CMC factory supplied brace (see build manual in Library) for the nose above the beam.  Also fiberglassed in splash panels either side to support the nose from sagging. Upper door crack wider - Rear can easily be corrected for butt sag (do search here).  

 

Post car location here and it will be gone in heart beat at that price (with those mods)!. Just make sure it has a good title - getting Certificate of Origin would be a plus.

 

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