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Its a practiced art.  Having a few beers down helps.  And at the risk of being booed out of the room: If one does not have a local distributor (is there one anywhere near Wash DC, Baltimore??) how does one get a case of the "green stuff"?  i see e-bay mentioned.  Any other sources?  Amazon?  I'll start looking, as the case I got before all this BS started floating around is about gone.

Just reporting back after speaking more with Charles.

It was confirmed that the supplier of the base oil additive pack has changed, and while the level of additives in the new base oil is actually measured the same (via oil analysis) the formulation is not the same and this has been quantitatively proven by LN's (and others) oil analysis.  Most specifically, the oxidation values have changed.  It was explained to me that the oxidation values come from the chemical structure of the base oil.  And, as many of you know, an oxidized oil will break down and not lubricate...

Anyway, I am certainly not looking to start or continue an oil debate...  run what you like.  Our official recommendation for aircooled oil is Gibbs DT50 if you want to run a full synthetic (and I do not like full synthetics in aircooleds personally), and Gibbs HR 15/50 if you want to run a dino oil.

Charliebrown-1-

I give up, but I'm gonna run the Brad Penn.  What the heck - I change the oil every Spring and maybe get 3,000 miles on it of mixed driving (no track time anymore) so how much oxidation can I possibly fear?  If I were racing it that would be one thing, but for the driving I do?  I'm going to follow MUSBJIM's lead and not worry about it.

Thanks for looking into this for us all, Carey.  Not the kind of stuff most of us get into, usually, and good info, for sure.

Kelly:  Brad Penn from Amazon usually runs $85 - $90 a case, delivered to your door.

 

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