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Although I realize that most of the club members here did not "build" their cars, perhaps some of you will actually do this kind of upgrade, or perhaps one of you will actually build their own kit car one day.  But I discovered this while building my car and it is a worth while tip to pass on.

 

You can find a lot of videos on YouTube about how to put an end fitting onto braided steel hose, and some of them even point out that there are various ways to cut the hose, ie;  Fine tooth hack saw, cutting disc or even a cable cutter.  But all of them recommend that tape be wrapped very tightly (make that VERY TIGHTLY) around the hose, and that the cut be made across the tape to avoid having the braided hose wrapping flare out at the ends.  Once that wrapper becomes flared, you are NEVER going to get that hose end fitting onto the hose !

 

So my technique requires you to acquire some wide cable ties, and to wrap one of them VERY tightly around the hose at the point where you want to make your cut.  Take your cutting disc tool (yes, this leaves some dust inside the hose) and make your cut by cutting a very slight amount from the cable tie - make the cut quickly, do not hesitate and go cleanly all the way through the hose.  The cable tie should slip reasonably simply off the end of the hose once your cut has been made.

 

You will find that the hose wrapper will not flare, and that the cut should be clean with no frayed steel wires sticking - if you went quickly through the hose.

 

There will be some hose dust that will come out when you tap the hose fitting onto your work bench.  This is done to insure that the hose itself is plumb up against the inside of the fitting.  In fact, make a mark on the hose at the hose end of the fitting, so you can insure that when you insert the end cap of the fitting, that it does not force the hose to walk back out of the fitting itself. 

 

Use a fitting box tool (it is available all over the place) to hold the fitting while you twist fit the hose into the fitting.  Believe me, this is the best tool you will ever buy (thanks again to Cory for loaning me his).

 

Once your fittings are on both ends of your hose, take a high pressure water hose and rinse out the hose to remove all debris, dust or possible steel wires from the hose wrapper cut.  Then take alcohol, and pour it through the hose and finally, haul your hoses off to your local gas station, and use their high pressure air hose to blast your hoses dry and to make double damn sure there is no debris inside that hose.  You do not want steel wires getting pulled through your oil hose or filter !

 

Hope that anyone who tries this, has the same good luck as I did - this method works great and precludes you from having to buy extra length hose, just to have enough hose to cover up for any mistakes you make while cutting it!

 

And lest I forget, you can get a better price on braided steel hose and fittings, at Jegs or Summit Racing, than just about anywhere else - and - they will deliver quickly based upon your shipping requirements.

Terry Lipford

Vintage Speedster Wide-Body

Sarasota, FL

Original Post

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Great article Terry; the only thing I'll add is that rubber lined hoses have to be replaced periodically (any one have an idea as to how often?) as the rubber can eventually swell and actually close off the opening. Teflon ss hoses never have to be replaced, and some people claim better flow because of the teflon being "slipperier" (is that even a word?). The only drawback is that (as far as I know) the fittings have to be "swedged" on with the proper tooling. Gene Berg Ent. used to sell made up hoses at reasonable prices, and industrial supply places will do it or know who does locally.

Russell braided hose uses synthetic rubber, which although better than natural rubber, it does not deal with heat as well as PFTE (chemically almost identical to teflon) based braided hose.  There are some reasonably priced PFTE hose suppliers (see http://www.votionspeed.com/ser...ainless-Steel/Detail ) and PFTE hose does not break down over time as natural rubber will.
 
I do not have any info on how often synthetic rubber interior braided hose will require replacement, perhaps some else might ?
 
Good call ALB
 
Originally Posted by ALB:

Great article Terry; the only thing I'll add is that rubber lined hoses have to be replaced periodically (any one have an idea as to how often?) as the rubber can eventually swell and actually close off the opening. Teflon ss hoses never have to be replaced, and some people claim better flow because of the teflon being "slipperier" (is that even a word?). The only drawback is that (as far as I know) the fittings have to be "swedged" on with the proper tooling. Gene Berg Ent. used to sell made up hoses at reasonable prices, and industrial supply places will do it or know who does locally.

Ed,
 
ALB is dead-on about using PFTE hose, and you can find them on the Gene Berg site already made up with fittings ( see http://www.geneberg.com/produc...&products_id=289 ).  Not having to purchase fittings, and cut hose, is a nice time savings.  The Gene Berg price is not terribly larger than buying blank hose, cutting it, and installing your own fittings.
 
Originally Posted by ed's 2005 Beck (zukes07):

Thanks Terry for the detailed instructions. One of the projects on my list.

 

ed

The Berg filter kit (which does a great job and includes the hoses but does NOT plumb in a cooler) is designed for a VW Sedan and might not put the filter where you want it in your Speedster, nor may it provide for where you have (or want) your external cooler to be fitted.  

 

A better alternative might be to get the external cooler and filter mounted where you want them, figure out what you'll need for attachment fittings at each point (what size/type, straight, 45 or 90 degree, male or female) and THEN measure for hose lengths to get them right.  After you have the lengths that you need (and be especially careful about routing the hoses away from or between your exhaust header "J" pipes), take the filter mount and cooler to a "Tubes and Hoses" shop (find them in the yellow pages near you) or do a yellow pages lookup for "Hydraulic Hoses" in your area.  If they have the lengths and end types you need they should be able to make them up in about an hour with no fear of any internal contamination.

 

Be aware that this will be a custom set of hoses and you will not be able to return them if they are wrong because of supplied info.  I usually get a length of el-cheapo rubber hose as a "template" and either buy or borrow the fittings that I think I'll need from the hose shop, then mock up a system with the rubber hose stock to then mark each fitting for location and mark on the fitting and hose a reference line for the hose guy or gal so they will know how to orient each end fitting on each hose (that's important for them).  Then I take all of the hoses and fittings to the shop and they use them to make a real SS set.

 

Be prepared to spend somewhere around $150-$175 for a set SS braided, teflon hoses for a full flow set-up to connect your cooler and filter to the engine.  I think the last set I had made up (for a 2,110 in a VS) was $160 from a place in Savannah, but that price was about what I've paid in New England, too.

 

gn

Originally Posted by Gordon Nichols - Massachusetts 1993 CMC:

The Berg filter kit (which does a great job and includes the hoses but does NOT plumb in a cooler) is designed for a VW Sedan and might not put the filter where you want it in your Speedster, nor may it provide for where you have (or want) your external cooler to be fitted.  

 

A better alternative might be to get the external cooler and filter mounted where you want them, figure out what you'll need for attachment fittings at each point (what size/type, straight, 45 or 90 degree, male or female) and THEN measure for hose lengths to get them right.  After you have the lengths that you need (and be especially careful about routing the hoses away from or between your exhaust header "J" pipes), take the filter mount and cooler to a "Tubes and Hoses" shop (find them in the yellow pages near you) or do a yellow pages lookup for "Hydraulic Hoses" in your area.  If they have the lengths and end types you need they should be able to make them up in about an hour with no fear of any internal contamination.

 

Be aware that this will be a custom set of hoses and you will not be able to return them if they are wrong because of supplied info.  I usually get a length of el-cheapo rubber hose as a "template" and either buy or borrow the fittings that I think I'll need from the hose shop, then mock up a system with the rubber hose stock to then mark each fitting for location and mark on the fitting and hose a reference line for the hose guy or gal so they will know how to orient each end fitting on each hose (that's important for them).  Then I take all of the hoses and fittings to the shop and they use them to make a real SS set.

 

Be prepared to spend somewhere around $150-$175 for a set SS braided, teflon hoses for a full flow set-up to connect your cooler and filter to the engine.  I think the last set I had made up (for a 2,110 in a VS) was $160 from a place in Savannah, but that price was about what I've paid in New England, too.

 

gn

Great post, Gord. Another thought; maybe the Gene Berg set for the Bus would work because of the extra length?

Absolutely true !   In fact, flush with mineral oil, then flush with high pressure water hose (pressure washer even better), hang the hoses up to dry for a day or two - and then install them.
 
And oh yeah, 45 degree swivel fittings by Russell make installing AN-8 a snap !
 
 
Originally Posted by Jogyver:

If you are thinking of using braided line , it is recommended to flush the line with mineral oil prior to use. One little stainless steel shard will cause major engine damage . Especially for oil cooling lines.

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