Brake caliper info needed.....

Harbor freight has the brake tool set that will work. You may be able to go to Autozone/Advance/Oreileys and rent the tool set for free. The pistons thread pack into place. A small spray of WD-40 will help the rubber boots to move and not rip or tear. Dialog me if you need any help. I can send you my number and I can walk you through this repair

Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#61381  Harbor Freight

• Part Number: 27111 Autozone

Part No. 

AST78618 Advance Autoparts

Part # W89200  Oreilys auto parts

I use Jorgensen wood clamps to "drive" pistons back in --- or a big screw driver behind pads.  Of course if rusted it could bind again.  I had to replace 3 calipers (did all 4 though) on my '03 4Runner with only 80k miles (dang FL salt air and street flooding).  You could pump brakes with no pads in and that might force pistons out?

Thanks for the heads up Tab....  I was about to go ballistic with no help from EMPI.(discontinued part... I wonder why?)  I'll scope it out Monday and try again....

Always good to here from you Wolfgang, but the clamp??? Well sometimes they just don't work,,,,,,   Subaru uses the threaded pistons, as does EMPI apparently.....  Hope all is well in Fla... Just got back from 10 days on Anna Maria Island's Bradenton Beach last week....

The threaded rear piston is for the parking brake. You use a disc brake piston tool like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/f...ston-tool-68972.html to screw it in. Trying to use a c-clamp on it can damage the caliper.

Ill bite.  How the heck does that tool work?

Frank.....   The piston face that mates with the pad has two slots 180 deg apart....  the tool has a pair of "teeth" that mate with these slots an allow you to turn the piston in to its home position.....  As you are probably aware, a "regular" piston can be pressed or squeezed in to this home position...These pistons do not normally have slots or grooves...

There are 5 different peg patterns on the face of the block to fit the various possible slot patterns in the piston. The center hole fits a 3/8" ratchet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlMU8K36Hjo

Not looking forward doing my front disc in near future; back drum brakes are easier since I had done this for my 59 VW bug.

Michael, if all you are doing on your front disks is changing pads and you have Karmann Ghia brakes like most of us then the job couldn't be easier.  Fear not.

^^What Lane said, Michael^^ Most of the time it's easy as pie! Do it before the pads are totally gone and you have to machine/replace 1 or both discs.

I find working on disc brakes to be fairly straightforward and relatively easy, but I really don't like working on drum brakes.

Amen to that.

This is great to hear disk on VS is easier than drums on a 59 VW bug, this should be a snap. Thank you everyone for the support. Michael

Thing is there are many simple parts on drum brakes - springs, wheel cylinders,shoe retainers, and the dreaded manual star adjusters.  On disc brake calipers you don't touch any of those parts - you just exchange the entire old caliper for a rebuilt one and $50.  Disc brakes are also self adjusting.  You can rebuild drum brakes - by honing the wheel brake cylinder and replacing rubber bits for maybe $6 - springs and other parts usually can be reused. Arcing new shoes to fit drums can also be a pain.

Easier than that.  You:

1. Remove wheel
2. Tap the ends of the retaining pins and pull them out, which also releases the clip (not sure what it's called)
3. Pull out pads
4. Installation is pretty much the reverse although you may have to use something to push the pistons back in a bit since the new pads will be thicker.

This way you don't have to bleed anything.  If you want you can unbolt the caliper to make access somewhat easier.  As long as the hose is left attached you still don't have to bleed.

Leon, the rear brake caliper is the same as on a LOT of VW/Audi products. The same caliper is on the rear of my Allroad. I've had that caliper on at least 5 cars. Front brakes are HUGE, but the rears are small solid rotor with the e-brake mechanism built in.

It is the same caliper on my Airkewld rear brakes as well.

I found you have to use a combo of turning and squeezing(gently) to get the pistons back in. I use a big C-clamp and a pair of water pump pliers. It take a while as the threads are very fine. It is a strange e-brake mechanism but it works well.

A month ago I did all 4 brakes on the big Audi(and rotors). It had close to 90K on the original brakes, believe it or not. Front rotors had hairline cracks, amd the rear were rusted on the edges. The pads were so low, one of the rear pistons popped out. That pissed me off a little, but I cleaned it all up and got it together and it works fine now. Brakes are now wonderful, again.

I took Tab's advice on renting a caliper tool from Autozone.....  Totally free of charge. (Bless them guys.)   Took me a few tries to sort out the method, but things went well...  Actually it was way easier than I expected...   Thanks to all...