Brake light switch - any difference in suppliers?

Is there any difference between the brake light switch that goes for $8.95 at my local 'bug barn', and the one that the local VW dealer wants to charge close to $70.00 for - other than $60.00?

Both are listed under the same product code.

Are they all made in China these days?

Is there any difference?

Probably not.

Are they all made in China these days?

Almost, although there are still some NOS versions kicking around which were made in Germany or Brazil. You have to look for them, though. I gave up and just converted my brake light switch to a 1937-54 Chevy pickup mechanical version. Works every time, is easy to install and should last longer than me - and it's available from NAPA.

Thanks, Gordon. I am reading that these switches don't last long these days, not like the OEM ones.

I'll look into a mechanical set up, but in the meantime still waiting to get one of the hydraulic ones.

I go through brake light switches on a fairly regular basis. The last one that I replaced was from Japan and the current one was made in China so I don't expect it to work really long. When I showed the last one, using it as a sample, to the Advance Auto dude he said it was for a 1998 Ford Escort. Works for me....for a while anyway.

I got the idea for the chevy pickup mechanical switch from Charlie Paddula at Charlie's Rod Shop, here in New England. The Hot Rodders are seeing the same failure rate as us (18 mos. or less) and a lot of them are going to the mechanical switch. Not as elegant as the hydraulic switch, but it works, seemingly forever, and it'll never leak.

My local auto parts store had one that was made in the US. That's all it's got stamped on it. He said he's pretty sure Borg Warner built them

I just found out that the same switch is used by Volvo on some of their earlier models.

Fortunately, I know the local Volvo garage and wrecking yard very well, and they are going to get me a good used one.

Fits a Volvo 122, 142, 144, and P-1800 (also MG Midget, I understand).

I once replaced the faulty switch in my '65 Midget with a VW part. Worked perfectly.

Lane:

I didn't know you were an LBC type of guy. I've owned a Bugeye, TD, MGB (2), and a TR6 (plus a Miata, but that doesn't count).

I've owned two Midgets: a '62 rustbucket (my first car), and a nice '65 (my toy before the Speedster). I'm gettin' the itch for an MGB (or C) GT. I lurk on MGExperience frequently.

Lane-some fun Brit stuff here...
http://www.britishv8.org/British-V8-Current-Issue.htm
SS

All of those hydraulically operated switches work great when you put them in and, yes, the VW, Volvo, Saab, MG, Fiat and a bunch of others are interchangeable, depending on year. All you have to watch is the thread size and pitch. I can't remember what it is, but it is metric.

The trouble with all of them which are procured from aftermarket shops is that they're all junk after 18 mos.

I am sure mine will fail as soon as I write this! I have the original ones Greg at Vintage supplied back in 2002. I do however change my brake and clutch fluid every two years as recommended by, well, everybody! I really think that is the reason why mine are still good, as well as masters, slave, calipers etc... I did have to replace my rear wheel cylinders though, they leaked.

I installed the good, original switch from an old Volvo last night, and it works just fine.

Have to bleed the brakes now, and I am ready to go.

I noticed the Volvo switch took a little more pressure to work, so I am hoping it is built more substantially and will last longer. It obviously lasted a long time on the Volvo.