VS is sending me a new rotor since one of the holes the lug bolt goes into is stripped. they said you can NOT rethread...once its done its done. What is the torque spec for that big 36mm nut to hold that on? Is it 225 ft lbs? they guy that called me wasnt sure.
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also - what does everyone torque their wheels down to on the wide 6's with disc brakes? 60 ft lbs?
Whatever my impact gun stops at. lol
Guess I've been lucky
I've always heard about 300 lbs for the castellated nuts and 80 lbs for lug bolts.
Rear axle nut (swingaxle) 217 ft-lbs
rear axle nut (irs) 253 ft-lbs
plus whatever additional torque it takes to line up the next cotter pin hole.
4-bolt lug bolts (14mm) 87-94 ft-lbs
wide-5 lug bolts (12mm) 72 ft-lbs (but exceeding this can warp the drum or strip the holes)
Thanks Justin. The lug bolts are on at 65 ft lbs so glad I asked!
Todd, are you going to put in studs? Mine has studs and I really like them. Makes mounting wheels A LOT easier too.
Ron - not at this point. Yes in the future but for now they are sending the same part so i will have that stuck in and be done with it until something happens or next valve adjust where I have to take thE wheels off.
Todd, my VS has lug bolts (four bolr pattern)... not studs...and mounting a wheel used to be (literally) a PITA muscle strain.
I ground the heads off three lug bolts and now use them as pins (temporary studs) to hang the wheel on.
Simply slip the wheel onto the three pins. The empty bolt hole is now perfectly aligned...spin on a lug bolt. Remove another pin and replace it with another lug bolt...etc., etc.
Easy, easy. No more cursing. No more muscle strain.
Had the exact set up on the Boxster...the car came with a pin that was about 6 inches long and made it very easy. I bought a few extra lug bolts so I will do in the future...I didn't have any proble,s getting thee wheels on really. except the stripped hole!
todd you can order a stud nut set from most all vw venders to replace the bolts, nothing to it at all. hey there is a wide body vintage on flebay in your aera kinda cheep, get it for the wife!!!
Mark - i wrote that guy to go check that car out...if anyone here is interested in it. My wife would kill me if I came home with another one! As for the studs, I think it is time you and I get together again - not because we are both studs, but sounds like you have a lot of work to do on my car!! LOL
What is the proper way ochanging to studs? I just watched some videos but nothing on a beetle. Looks like most lubed it up and used washers and a lug nut to tighten the studs against. But I assume drilling the rotor holes is a must but .... Anyone done this?
OK, Pearl has 4-Bolt hubs, all around, that are drilled/tapped for lug bolts. I use the VW lug bolts at three positions and use a stud for the fourth position (keep reading). I mount Pelican 1-1/4" spacers with the lug bolts, and the stud position has a conical nut to tighten that one stud, so then the spacers are held on with a total of four fasteners - three bolts and one longer stud/nut. When I assemble everything, I used Locktite Red (HD) to make sure nothing is going to loosen up between the spacers and the hubs.
Once the 4-bolt stuff is tight, I then have four more studs in the billet spacer for the wheel, for a total of 5 studs (remember, that one longer stud is common to the 4-bolt pattern) which then fit the Porsche Fuchs rims. (the VW pattern is 4X130mm while the Porsche pattern is 5X130mm) The four studs in the spacer are also locktited in (again, Red HD Locktite) and then I use Porsche alloy lug nuts for the actual wheels. The final lug nuts are assembled dry - no Locktite.
Everything fits, everything works and nothing loosens up.
The studs are tightened into the hubs or spacer with two nuts locked together on the stud to run it in to it's working depth. The only worry you have with studs in the hub is to not thread them in more than 1/4" beyond the inner surface of the hub, otherwise, with drums they might catch on the shoe mechanism if the studs penetrate too deeply.
gn
just screw the bolt out and spray the threads out with breakleen, then apply locktight to the stud threads that go into the rotor/drum, but not on the thread portion that gets the nut to hold on the wheel. you can doubble nut them to tighten them in the rotor, be ure not to back it out any when removing the nuts, do this on all 5 then put your wheel back on and torque to what ever they go to , probably about 70 lbs. and do the next wheel.and so on an so forth.
I think we are talking about two different things...
There is no thread left in the hole. i want to use something like these???
http://www.jbugs.com/product/7...vw-wheels-studs-nuts
arnt they sending you a new rotor??
They are supposed to be. He was supposed to call me back tuesday night but he never did. He was going to call SoCal and see if they had tam and get one to me...
There is no thread left in the hole. i want to use something like these???
http://www.jbugs.com/product/7...vw-wheels-studs-nuts
While those are the stronger, safer style stud, those press-in style need a specific size non-threaded hole and spot faced on the back of the rotor. If they are sending you a replacement rotor tapped for lug bolts, you'd need to use threaded studs like this: http://www.jbugs.com/product/9...vw-wheels-studs-nuts
Though, double check that you have the standard 12mm bolts for wide-5's not 14mm bolts. Your link was to some 14mm studs.
