Brake upgrade

I took my front disc brakes apart last night and decided I need new brakes. The disc brakes I have are from the mid 80s and most likely (best guess) off of a Ghia (small calipers and small, square brake pads). The question is, what do I replace them with? I like Airkewld's BAD series-expensive, but I like Wilwood calipers.
Ron

Ron, I bought the BAD brakes but have yet to put them on. One thing, they don't have a kit with the Wilwood calipers that will fit on the VW/Ghia disc brake spindles. They only have Wilwood kits that utilize the drum brake spindles.

The discs and hats are first rate...look better than in the photos. I'll try to get a pic of them mounted to my A frame suspension and post it tonight. Although expensive, our Cdn dollar is not bad vis a vis the US dollar and I found Pete to be easy to deal with as he ended up giving me a bit of a break in the shipping.

I got the full kit with new calipers, master, etc, etc. The braided stainless lines that came with it were DOT certified too, which is kind of reassuring. I'll PM you...

Brian, thanks for the info. I PM'd you back.
Ron

Talk to Lanner at V Dub Engineering in Mississauga about 944 rotors and hubs machined to fit your spindles. Use either 944 NA, 944-T or callipers but the repair kits are not available.
For the ultimate use current 996 monoblock callipers

He can do it so track width increase is kept to a minimum of 5mm if you wish

The most bang for your buck and readily available rotors. I used Zimmerman drilled ones
Bolt pattern is 5 x 130

The VW performance book listed below (I have and will dig it out) talks about using Chrysler Omni/Talbot Horizon calipers to brake increase surface area. This would let you keep the 4 bolt wheel patern. If you change front to 5 bold Porsche or VW wide 5 then you're into adapters or modifying the rear too.

http://tinyurl.com/yc76m5c

Claims the calipers are readily available - so must be on other vehicles too. Sounds like cheap $100 upgrade. Direct bolt on replacement for ATE calipers. Provides Larger pads and pistons.

Robert, funny you should mention Lanner at V Dub-I've already talked to him about a kafer cup truss bar.
Wolfgang, I'm already using a Porsche bolt pattern.
Ron

Ron,

Have you looked here?:

http://franklinsvwwerks.com/Products_Wilwood.html

Kelly, but very nice. I ended up ordering the BAD kit (two piston Wilwoods).
Ron

Posted some pics of the BAD brakes on my front suspension in my file...couple below. Ron, yours will look real sharp with the Wilwoods. still debating whether to go that route as I'll have to cut the caliper "ears" off my spindles ro something like that to get them to fit.

Oooooooo...!!! I really like that front suspension and R&P steering.

ron - these cars don't weight a lot, so you can easily over-brake them if you don't have massive front tires.

the ghia brakes should be more than adequate on your car.

I have to get an adjustable proportioning valve to get all 4's to lock up at the same time. right now - it's too much front brakes (CB wide 5 drop kit)

those brakes are expensive - you might get better braking performance with that money spent elsewhere.

my $0.02

I confess that the main reason I'm going with the BAD setup is the Wilwood calipers. I think the Wilwoods are a huge jump in quality, compared to many of the other VW calipers on the market. Also, there is a large selection of pads available for Wilwood calipers.
My theory is that you can't have too much braking performance. The limiting factor usually comes down to tires.
Here's a link to a brake proportioning valve with metric fittings: http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4539&parentid=0&stocknumber=14-76240
I have this proportioning valve on my street/track Miata.
Ron

By the way mangosmoothie, you're better off having the fronts lock up before the rears, and your chances of balancing your braking system so that all four wheels lock at the same time are slim.
With my street/track Miata I set the proportioning valve so the rears locked first and then made small adjustments until the fronts locked first.
Ron

That's the same preportioning valve I got although ti didn't come with the metric adapters so I got them elsewhere. I must admit, not too sure on how and where to install it in the speedy but I'm not at that point yet anyway.

Mounting it near the master cylinder wouldn't work-too hard to get at for adjustments. A possible solution may be to fab some brake lines and run them up to the trunk area, by the brake reservoir.
Ron

I was thinking out back, either behind or beneath the rear parcel area and then making an access panel. Or else inside the car somewhere. How close is too close to the master?

Brian, in my Miata the proportioning valve sits right next to my master brake cylinder.
Ron

I am doing this right now and killing two birds with one stone:
Cut the line running through the inside of the car from MC to the rear union. Mount the PV on the tunnell down beside your seat for easy adjustment. Once set, lock the knob with a jam nut.

My PV is Wilwood and US style flared fittings. Now that you have cut the Beetle line simply make your own flare to the PV

Post some photos when you get it installed.
Ron

A bit late but I'd recommend these brakes, they are German TUV certified. I'm going to put them on my replica.

http://www.csp-shop.de/cgi-bin/cshop2/front/shop_main.cgi?func=det&wkid=26635061554&rub1=Wheels%20%2F%20Brakes&rub2=Brake%20Systems%2CBrake%20Systems%20front%2CBug%20%2F%20Karmann%20Ghia%20%2D65%2CPCD%205%2F205&artnr=15458c&pn=0&sort=0&all=

I really like CSP products-quality stuff, but expensive. I recently bought one of their shifters.
Ron

I have their front wide-5 solid discs. They work well, but probably not as good as the vented ones.