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I'm trying to be proactive in getting ready for the Smokies this year. The last time I went my brakes we're limiting me in that they did start to fade a bit.

I had been been looking at having my trailing arms (IRS) modified (1 inch) and adding rear discs as the body (CMC lft side) limits my wheel space for tire choice and rear discs would exacerbate  this . The problem with this approach is too much $$$.

What I have done so far is add a VS shifter to ease braking and I've added new cross drilled rotors replacing my standard rotors and I'm looking at new rear brake shoes and larger wheel cylinders. ( Super Stopper from Air Cooled)

Has anyone tried the CB rear disk setup (Zero Offset) or had any experience with the Super Stopper wheel cylinders/shoes?

I'm going to change tire size to 175 from 185 for more room in the wheel well space.

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Mike--there has been a lot written here about the problems with the B C Performance rear disc brake kit.  I had my troubles too when the inner steel part of the hub separated from the aluminum outer part.  Drove all the way home to AR from Richmond VA with the separation.  The hub has to spin some part of a circle before"catching" going either forwards or backwards.  This is a long time flaw with this part.  I swapped out my defective hubs from a solid steel one from Socal imports.  It was plug and play and was a direct replacement for the bad one.  Someone posted that the problem with separation is eliminated if the brake kit is properly torqued.  Mine was perfectly torqued because I was previously warned about this before the rear discs were installed  still went South. 

Socal also makes a complete rear disc conversion which I'd recommend if starting from scratch.   The steel hubs weigh more but the extra pounds means nothing to the engine I have and I doubt a 1600 cc Type I would loose much either.

I wouldn't drive a Speedster replica without discs at all four corners.  We have enough safety issues to worry about without not taking care of one issues that can be fixed.

Good luck with your car!

 

 

 

Jack Crosby posted:

Mike--there has been a lot written here about the problems with the B C Performance rear disc brake kit.  I had my troubles too when the inner steel part of the hub separated from the aluminum outer part.  Drove all the way home to AR from Richmond VA with the separation.  The hub has to spin some part of a circle before"catching" going either forwards or backwards.  This is a long time flaw with this part.  I swapped out my defective hubs from a solid steel one from Socal imports.  It was plug and play and was a direct replacement for the bad one.  Someone posted that the problem with separation is eliminated if the brake kit is properly torqued.  Mine was perfectly torqued because I was previously warned about this before the rear discs were installed  still went South. 

Socal also makes a complete rear disc conversion which I'd recommend if starting from scratch.   The steel hubs weigh more but the extra pounds means nothing to the engine I have and I doubt a 1600 cc Type I would loose much either.

I wouldn't drive a Speedster replica without discs at all four corners.  We have enough safety issues to worry about without not taking care of one issues that can be fixed.

Good luck with your car!

This is a known problem with the CB wide five brakes, and it was good you brought it up, Jack.

However, Michael is running Fuchs, and so has late Porsche drilling brakes, which are a completely different thing. This is good information to have out there, but not necessarily relevant to the brakes he is looking at. The late Porsche drilled hubs are not made out of aluminum, they are ferrous.

I think the big question with these brakes is whether or not they add with as compared to stock drum brakes. 

Thanks for the replies guys and yes Art I did address the but sag. The problem is one of clearance from the face of the hub to the outboard fender well and with the CMC body fault of less clearance on the left side vs right, its close to the tire and rubs at times. I've filed the inner lip for more clearance as well.

Stan,I'll have to check with CB as I had heard about the zero/true offset in their setup. I think that may be "Pay once cry once" is what I'm looking at here but putting a grand into the setup would hinder my interior budget.

If no one has had any experience with the Super Stopper setup I may be on my own on this experiment but its the cost of a ham sandwich vs the whole pig.

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