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Well Fern has been around the 'hood' a few times and last week I bled my brakes after I found the fluid level as low. Thought that was odd, but bled them anyway. Got them feeling great. (Note:) I changed a few years ago to new discs in the front, new slaves and pads in the back. So all is pretty new.

I found this week that the fluid was disappearing with no puddles in the car along the tunnel or under the car. Today I tried to find it. I think I did find the problem. The MC is leaking at the boot and falling into space between the pan and the frame. Must be a ton of fluid in there...

I tried to change the MC (yes I have a dual spare) but the hard line that runs to the back &^%$# the nut is frozen to the MC so I cut if off and pulled the line that goes to the 'T' and pulled it off. I have it out now.

I also have new front brake lines that I'll throw in while I'm there.

Question: This hard line from the MC, through the floor, along the tunnel and to the T. It had a curve (round curve) in it by the tunnel and front of the seat. When I go to buy a new one is the (round curve) necessary? Or did the PO (builder) curve it because it was too long?

I am off to UAP tomorrow to get new hard brake lines. I will change the front ones as well, the drivers side is about 10" and the passenger side is about 22"

1957 Porsche(Speedster)

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Well Fern has been around the 'hood' a few times and last week I bled my brakes after I found the fluid level as low. Thought that was odd, but bled them anyway. Got them feeling great. (Note:) I changed a few years ago to new discs in the front, new slaves and pads in the back. So all is pretty new.

I found this week that the fluid was disappearing with no puddles in the car along the tunnel or under the car. Today I tried to find it. I think I did find the problem. The MC is leaking at the boot and falling into space between the pan and the frame. Must be a ton of fluid in there...

I tried to change the MC (yes I have a dual spare) but the hard line that runs to the back &^%$# the nut is frozen to the MC so I cut if off and pulled the line that goes to the 'T' and pulled it off. I have it out now.

I also have new front brake lines that I'll throw in while I'm there.

Question: This hard line from the MC, through the floor, along the tunnel and to the T. It had a curve (round curve) in it by the tunnel and front of the seat. When I go to buy a new one is the (round curve) necessary? Or did the PO (builder) curve it because it was too long?

I am off to UAP tomorrow to get new hard brake lines. I will change the front ones as well, the drivers side is about 10" and the passenger side is about 22"

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  • FernRattle
Mike:

I route the rearward line from the MC thru the front firewall, to the left of the pedal assembly , then a quick bend back in front of the pedals and another bend against the base of the tunnel on the driver's side and out the rear of the pan to the tee..... be sure to use a rubber grommet or piece of hose to protect the line from rubbing where it passes thru the rear pan area

Alan
One thing to note here, brake fluid is corrosive, try to clean it somehow. It is not a good idea leaving it inside the pan cavity and tunnel and forgetting about it. I had a problem like that once, with time it made a rust hole in the floor of the pan double firewall...
my 2 cents, cheers ~jJ~
A quick tip> While brake fluid is corrosive, it's also caustic AND hydrophilic. It will absorb and hold water. This makes it tough to fully wash it away. It needs to be neutralized then flushed.

To be safe, raise the front and pour a strong mixture of baking soda and water into the vent holes in the forward bulkheads (in front of the pedals under the carpet), THEN flush with straight water for a good while.

Make sure that all of the drains are clear and clean. Do it on a warm day to insure that the inner tunnel will dry out when you're done.

Luck!
Well started on it yesterday afternoon and did the following. New Master Cylinder (dual, like the old one), new hard lines to the front wheels, new rubber lines to each. Then started the rear line that I cut out. I couldn't buy one long enough so the autoparts shop sold me a shorter one and a long one with a joiner (adapter) to mate them together. Got the length all right, I needed to form that circle again to make up for the length. All got put in about 4 hours, bad leg and all.

When the front was on stands the fluid was leaking out of the belly where the cut welds are for shortening.

I will try to get it out. So baking soda, mixed into a semi-liquid paste dripped into the opening, then water and a high pressure hose should do the trick?

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  • bob
Little side note: I did bend the tube to go to the left and then infront of the pedal assembly and to the tunnel. You need to be very careful since there is a lobe on the bottom of the brake pedal that can come in contact with the hard-line so you need to make sure you clear this.

I am wondering if tomorrow I should just go and get a new tube and have it run to the left along the left side of the car and through the back. Seems that this would be a better curve... it's covered anyway and beside the seat...

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  • bob
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