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Should have said LED flasher that also supports incandescent bulbs.  Here's a sales pit for one (CEC) that does:

All LED flashers from CEC, including the Solid State flashers, are compatible for use with regular bulbs as well as LED bulbs or a mix of LED / regular bulbs.  There are many cheap LED flashers on the market that will simply go up in smoke when you put regular bulbs in.  You may think that's not important, since you have LED bulbs in your car, but think about it:

If your LED bulb goes out, you can simply go into any auto parts store and get a standard (non-LED) replacement bulb to get you going "legit" without burning up your flasher.
If you are towing a trailer, you may not have LED bulbs in the trailer: Our flashers will work with (and can handle the load from) incandescent bulbs, so you do not have to worry about burning out your flasher.
If you have LED bulbs only in the rear (or only in the front) our LED flashers will work with a mix of incandescent and regular bulbs.

Jack, I would spring for the new wiring harness, but it's a huge time investment to install. Since you also want to rent the speedster out, reliability is a key to success. Going through every wire in the car will go a long way to getting that reliability back. If I remember correctly, most of the problems you've seen so far are related to the wiring.

You can probably get the car on the road by following the recommendations above (cleaning up the grounds and looking for loose or corroded connectors). A day spent chasing down every key wire and ground might get the car in good enough shape to hold you until you have the several days you'd need to replace the whole harness (shoulder season?).

The previous owner of my car had ordered a custom replacement from Henry Reisner. Since I had the body off, it was easy to track down wires and figure out where they went. Plus, I had an expert advisor as seen below. @DannyP and a few others on this board are also experts and can advise, but mostly it's just dirty, sticky, work interspersed with verifying connections with your volt-ohm meter. @Stan Galat has recently done a pretty job adding a harness for his upcoming EFI adventure. I'm sure advice would be forthcoming if you replace the harness. Good luck!

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Mike P. - When you get lemons make lemonade.

I always wanted to get a 10' sheet of plywood and lay out a wiring loom using nails to route them.  Even at $350, it probably would be worth the effort for a single harness. 

I do have a dune buggy - going to try a cheap $100 EMPI ebay dune buggy harness on it.  It is lot more open to wire than a speedster.  I have a replacement fuse box - hate those ceramic antique fuses.

EMPI 9466 VW DUNE BUGGY UNIVERSAL WIRING HARNESS W/ FUSE BOX - RAIL BUGGY TRIKE

@WOLFGANG posted:

Mike P. - When you get lemons make lemonade.

I always wanted to get a 10' sheet of plywood and lay out a wiring loom using nails to route them.  Even at $350, it probably would be worth the effort for a single harness.

I do have a dune buggy - going to try a cheap $100 EMPI ebay dune buggy harness on it.  It is lot more open to wire than a speedster.  I have a replacement fuse box - hate those ceramic antique fuses.

EMPI 9466 VW DUNE BUGGY UNIVERSAL WIRING HARNESS W/ FUSE BOX - RAIL BUGGY TRIKE

Greg, looks like it will work but pay attention to the connectors. Get good crimps and consider soldering in addition. I would NOT use the blue vampire taps because they tend to be less reliable over time. I'd just add a barrel crimp connector to the wire that you want to tap, with whatever soldering and waterproofing that makes sense. Good luck!

@El Frazoo posted:

I really don't have anything useful to add here that has not been said. An earlier remark about a single reel of red Chinese wire being used to wire a speedster pretty much describes my car, which was built to my order by a "reputable" commercial builder.  There is the occasional white wire in there too.  So I feel your pain.  It's all to easy to get wires mixed up when tracing or trying to redo something.  Oh, the stories I could tell.

We don't have a full picture of this car yet, but from what you show and tell here, I hope the price was right.  This tub looks like it needs a lot of TLC.  I'll further observe that "hand built fiberglass Speedster wired by a blind chimpanzee" and "reliable transportation" are oxymoronic phrases.  AKA: The Madness.  I wish you luck.

Here are some photos, I paid $30k for the car and shipped it to Hawaii from LA.

I have about $35k into it so far but I think if I clean it up some, it would be worth $45k.

Thoughts? I think I got a decent deal, I love the black and red!

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Very cool Speedster, @Jack Bolton

I have a CMC widebody which, in the Vintage scheme of things, isn’t all that wide.  The lines flow nicely from the top of the rear cowl to the wheel arch.  From the rear it’s reminiscent of a Cobra, only classier.  

No matter, though.  It’s what I chose to represent a “50’s German Hot Rod” and those who understand that tell me I nailed it.

And besides, I’m old enough now to not give a damn what others think.

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Please stop recommending people use those "solder" connectors. They are OK for a temporary repair of one or two wires but are NOT a permanent or reliable solution. It is especially important when they are recommended by someone who is clearly respected and listened to by many folks.

Someone used them to replace a faulty headlight pigtail plug on my truck. Not long after I bought the truck the headlight stopped working. Hint: it wasn't the bulb. Someone cut the two plugs out and used those "solder" connectors to eliminate the plugs, directly connecting the wires. Out of curiosity, I sliced the heat-shrink open. I found corrosion and a failed cold-solder joint, on all three wires. The wires were in a dry area, but outside/under hood.

Why did they fail? The solder simply doesn't stick, the solder and wires don't get hot enough to flow, you end up with  a cold solder. This is guaranteed to fail either soon or someday, no way to know when.

If you've ever soldered pipes together and don't get it hot and/or clean enough you'll get a cold solder which will leak.

A crimped connection in a car is the way to go(due to the inherent vibration), as evidenced by OE manufacturers using this method.

If I was going to the trouble of replacing an entire harness, I'd crimp every connection I could with a good quality ratchet crimper. I bought one on Amazon for about $30. It crimped the small ends that were used on the ECU, they crimp Deutsch and GM Weather-pak too.

I added EFI to my Spyder and built that harness. I crimped every connection I could. The only time I used solder was to connect a harness wire to a pigtail connector that came with a sender. Think temperature senders or injector connectors. Dozens of crimps but less than a half-dozen solders. Every solder connection has marine heat-shrink on it. Marine heat-shrink has a liquid that melts with heat and seals the tubing to the wire insulation. I have 100% confidence that my harness won't fail.

I certainly wouldn't have that confidence with those "solder seal" connectors.

I must agree with Danny on this one. The only wiring failure I had on my harness was from a soldered joint. As long as you crimp tight (see if you can pull the wires out), you will probably end up with a more reliable harness than one with soldered joints.

Whether you should flow solder after you crimp or coat the wires with dielectric grease is a matter of discussion, but I don't think there's a definitive ruling on best practice.

If you do Facebook, there's a pretty good Motorsport Wiring Alliance group that shares decent information. https://facebook.com/groups/791986454524076/

Alan, honestly you are one data point compared to the millions upon millions of OE crimp connections.

And exactly how many of these cars you've put together have you owned and driven for more than long enough for the check to clear?

Folks, if you do solder, make sure the joint is immobile so it won't crack from any vibration or stress. And get it hot enough to flow(which will melt the plastic of those shrink connectors).

If moisture gets in either a shrink or a solder connection it will fail.

Last edited by DannyP

Al's built a million cars, and I have no dog in this hunt

... but Danny made telecommunications connections for a living for over 30 years and he's advocating for crimp connections. Mike Pickett who's done pretty much everything in his life agrees. In the tiny little subset of people regularly posting here, two guys have personally experienced the failure of soldered connections. I'd never even seen one of this type before Al began advocating for them, so there can't be that many of them out there. It's anecdotal, but one data point is a point in isolation. Two is a trend. We have a trend at a minimum. It makes me skeptical.

I've done control wiring in HVAC/R for over 40 years now, and I'm an unapologetic crimp advocate regardless of what anybody else does. The only time I use shrink-tube is when I'm trying to be fancy or when I'm exceptionally worried about moisture. I've never seen anybody use a "cold solder" connector in any commercial application. When the connection matters (OE or field repair), it's crimped- 100% of the time.

Vibrating connections can fail no matter how they are made, but there isn't a single soldered connection on my car (that I know of). It's harder to do and has no advantage.

Your mileage may vary.

Last edited by Stan Galat

My 2 cents comes from the computer biz where ALL printed circuit boards (PCBs) are soldered, and everything off-board from the PCBs is crimped.  

Soldering PCBs works because they live forever in a controlled environment at 40% humidity, controlled temperature within a narrow range, managed power, etc.  It is also extremely economical to solder hundreds of components from integrated circuits to resistors to relays, etc, by passing a component loaded board over a wave of molten solder on a machine to (a.) hold all components in place and (b.) make a proper, solid, electrical connection and (c.) get it all soldered in seconds per board.

Away from the boards, connectors are chosen for a bunch of things like environment (including humidity management), power or signal requirements, reliability, etc.  Their terminations are always crimped, except in some copper-wire instances of the phone company when they used a compression bus where they pushed a wire between two jaws on the connector bus to make the connection.  Since the arrival of Fiber Optic Cables that corrosion-potential method has been going away (Danny could give us insight, here).  I can't remember, in 30 years of building electronic assemblies, seeing a soldered connection away from the PCBs.  

Same goes for cars - The electronic gizmos are all wave soldered but all of the wiring, everywhere in the car, is crimped, always by a crimping machine that is cost prohibitive to hobbyists.  Hundreds of millions of cars are a lot of data points (except for those British ones running smoke-filled wires and two-fuses-per-car from Lucas).  My data point is that 98% of my car wiring is crimped using a ratcheting hand crimping tool like this:  

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-T...ad_source=1&th=1

It does red, blue and yellow crimp connections, is adjustable if you need to, is easy to use and the only time I've had trouble was when the wire was too small for the crimp connector and it pulls out (operator error).  If you're doing an entire car and want solid connections, get one.

If you want to insure a connection is waterproof, position some shrink tube over the crimped connection, shoot dielectric grease into both ends of the shrink tube, then shrink it and clean up the excess.  I've done that on my car for all of the outside lights and such that could get wet and they've been trouble-free for 20 years.

I am a little disturbed that now after I have bought a bunch of them we now think these solder connector things are bad.

Honestly, it's why all information on the internet should be taken with a grain of salt. A few years back, this site was full of folks acting like a joint had to be soldered or it was junk. We have a tendency to pile on. One day it's crimped joints, then next it's plastic fuel filters. There's always a perception that something harder to do must be better.

Every service truck I've got carries about $500 worth of red, blue, and yellow crimp connectors. When I want them to look nice, I remove the nylon jacket and slip a piece of shrink-tube back over the wire, crimp the bare joint, then slide the shrink-tube over the joint and heat it with a lighter or heat gun.

As an aside, nothing will ruin a morning faster than pulling the multi-binned crimp-box out of the truck, only to find that the latch had worked loose and the crimps are now flung out all over the parking lot. The stupid things cost at least $.50 each on average, so even at $120/hr it's worth the time to pick them up, re-sort them, and put them in the appropriate bin. I know everything I need to know about a guy if his crimp box is a jumbled up mess.

I've never used a ratcheting crimp tool, because I've never over-crimped anything. I've under-crimped many, many times -- but as everybody keeps saying, ya' gotta' tug on the wire to know if your joint is good.

Last edited by Stan Galat

I have made more than a few simple circuit breadboards for use in a lab setting. Wires were either put under screw terminals or soldered.  Definitely not an automotive environment application.  I have done some patch work connections on cars and particularly the Speedster. I'll crimp and solder a joint every chance I get, use heat-shrink tubing.  So far so good.  I do know a cold solder joint from a proper one.  My only objection to a crimped connection would be if it was done too aggressively and so the wire gets damaged and then might break if mishandled or from vibration.  So proper strain relief at the junction might be the real key to success. Well, that and moisture.  At work, we would design electronics packages for field testing and send them off to the wiring shop to be made.  These chassis were typically works of art with neat routing, lots of lacing cord and very secure mounts all around.  Like what Danny P does.

One item here I'm curious about: marine heat shrink.  Sounds pretty cool, and is a new idea to me.  how different from "regular" heat shrink?  I do recall when my well pump was installed and replacements have been needed, the 12 ga solid copper wiring splices are done with a pretty sophisticated set of splice kits that are super water proof.  These are special kits that come included with the new pump. I think the connection is crimped inside of a case with goop, and the whole thing massively heat shrunk.  These are supposed to last 20+ years the whole time submersed in water that likely is a bit acidic.

Devils advocate on the solder connections mentioned above. It's too long a story to explain in detail, but I had to wire scoring machines for our fencing school and training center. there were 140 5v .5 amp connections under hatches in a floating sports floor (like a pro-basketball floor). Not one failed in 4 years of use and when we moved to a new facility we repaeated the process and they've all been fine for 2 years. Not the same kind of use as in a car, but they were easy to use, quick, and apparently reliable in this particular usage. The equipment they're connecting won't tollerate over 2 ohms of resistance.

I will say, as have others, that a poorly done connection won't last no matter what kind it is, and all of them will eventually fail. That includes properly supporting the connected segments of wiring. If they are under tension or parts are hanging from connections they will fail faster.

For the OP, man, looking under that dash if it were my flamable speedster I'd disconnect the battery yesterday, rip out all the wiring and start fresh. Running fresh neat wiring can actually be a very satisfying experience.

Devils advocate on the solder connections mentioned above. It's too long a story to explain in detail, but I had to wire scoring machines for our fencing school and training center. there were 140 5v .5 amp connections under hatches in a floating sports floor (like a pro-basketball floor). Not one failed in 4 years of use and when we moved to a new facility we repaeated the process and they've all been fine for 2 years. Not the same kind of use as in a car, but they were easy to use, quick, and apparently reliable in this particular usage. The equipment they're connecting won't tollerate over 2 ohms of resistance.

I will say, as have others, that a poorly done connection won't last no matter what kind it is, and all of them will eventually fail. That includes properly supporting the connected segments of wiring. If they are under tension or parts are hanging from connections they will fail faster.

For the OP, man, looking under that dash if it were my flamable speedster I'd disconnect the battery yesterday, rip out all the wiring and start fresh. Running fresh neat wiring can actually be a very satisfying experience.

Gahhh I know, Don't scare me!

Fire is my worst nightmare.... I already ordered the wiring kit and will be rewiring it soon! Not ready to rip it out yet, still want the car to be in running condition so I can move it around easily.

Also want to tune my new carbs when some parts come in.

Love this discussion so much! I think ill be using crimp connectors with shrink tubing and dielectric grease.

@Jack Bolton posted:


Love this discussion so much! I think ill be using crimp connectors with shrink tubing and dielectric grease.

I suspect for 99% of your connections you would be fine with skipping the dielectric grease and just put marine shrink tubing over the crimp connector. Any connection that has a plug should get the grease.

Eventronic 400 Pcs Heat Shrink Tubing Kit-3:1 Ratio Adhesive Lined,Marine Grade Shrink Wrap - Industrial Heat-Shrink Tubing - Black https://a.co/d/7xDwLCE

@LI-Rick posted:

Does anyone use the heat shrink crimp connectors?  They would seem to  be a step up from just the crimp and are available in a marine grade. https://wirefyshop.com/collect...riant=43711816532210

I've used them, and they are convenient. I don't have any evidence on whether they're equal to the reliability of separate crimp and marine heat shrink. My gut feeling is they are better than a regular crimp connector alone, but that you should probably spend for the higher quality ones to ensure that the shrink actually fully seals. Again, no data, just gut feeling.

Last edited by Michael Pickett

I've used them, and they are convenient. I don't have any evidence on whether they're equal to the reliability of separate crimp and marine heat shrink. My gut feeling is they are better than a regular crimp connector alone, but that you should probably spend for the higher quality ones to ensure that the shrink actually fully seals. Again, no data, just gut feeling.

Thanks Michael, any particular brands that you recommend?  Or would you suggest going to a separate crimp and marine heat shrink.  Cost isn't an issue.

@LI-Rick posted:

Thanks Michael, any particular brands that you recommend?  Or would you suggest going to a separate crimp and marine heat shrink.  Cost isn't an issue.

Rick, it's been several years since I did my EFI harness, so I'd defer to @DannyP on this question. Although you hear me recognizing the superiority of crimps in our cars, virtually all of my professional experience was with wire wrapping and soldering one-off research equipment.

The Motorsports Wiring group has a strong preference for crimps. Danny has decades of making connections that have to survive in brutal environments. He's probably the man on this topic.

@Jack Bolton posted:

I purchased these to use in my rebuild https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think Ill double up, Ill use regular shrink wrap on top of these heat shrink butt connectors, I like the heat shrink butt connectors because it helps secure the wire to the connector!

Definitely regular shrink on top (or messy, overlapped electricians tape - some places you gotta do what you gotta do). Belt and suspenders.

I've tried a few different terminals with heat shrink tube on them but they seem to act strangely versus my ratcheting crimper.  I have my crimper set up to expect the colored sleeve over the connection to be included as I crimp to get a perfect crush.  The addition of the thicker shrink tube over the connection and sleeve seems to distort the colored sleeve a bit but the crimp itself has much less integrity than without the shrink tube on it as it didn't get enough crush pressure.  I've gone back to plain old shrink tube and dielectric grease if I need it.

I've also found that the racks at the NAPA store have a bunch of similar but different 1/4" fast-on tabs in different colors.  Some are keyed, some are not.  Some keyed ones may be the same color, but often have the keys in different places (left, center or right) so you have to be really careful picking up a handful of red, keyed, male and female fast-ons, only to get home and find you grabbed some incompatible ones.  😡

Regarding keyed spade connectors, and maybe setting a bad example, I buy a lot of the blue ones and using them for all the things that don't need Deutsch or bulkhead connectors. I use dielectric grease on all of the spades.

For smaller gauge wires, I strip double the usual amount of insulation away and double the wire over where it is crimped (I know Danny's head is exploding right now).

I like the quality and price on these, they also offer a smaller assortment of red, blue, yellow sizes.

Nilight 200PCS Male Female Fully Insulated Wire Crimp Terminal Nylon Quick Connectors Wiring Spade 16-14 Gauge, 2 Years Warranty https://a.co/d/dz59Jny

Last edited by Michael Pickett
@LI-Rick posted:

Does anyone use the heat shrink crimp connectors?  They would seem to  be a step up from just the crimp and are available in a marine grade. https://wirefyshop.com/collect...riant=43711816532210

I don't use them, agree with Gordon that the plastic thickness sometimes messes with the crimp integrity. As a rule, I don't use butt connectors unless I absolutely have to.

I use Wurth brand connectors if I can get them, or NAPA if I can't. I leave the red, yellow, or blue plastic on and add the heat shrink for strain-relief.

@El Frazoo Marine heat shrink is just thicker regular heat shrink, but with a heat-activated clear sealant goo on the inside that seals the shrink to the wire insulation. Hopefully forever.

For smaller gauge wires, I strip double the usual amount of insulation away and double the wire over where it is crimped (I know Danny's head is exploding right now).

I do this all the time on solid-core 18 thermostat wire. The crimp holds forever like this.

@LI-Rick posted:

Thanks Michael, any particular brands that you recommend?  Or would you suggest going to a separate crimp and marine heat shrink.  Cost isn't an issue.

You didn't ask me, but this is what I do. I have an assortment of the crimps I use. I do not buy bare ones, I buy red/blue/yellow. If I want to put shrink over them, I pull the nylon off the connector and buy the shrink-tube seperate.

@DannyP posted:

I use Wurth brand connectors if I can get them, or NAPA if I can't.

I'm not particular at all about the brand for 99.9% of what I do -- but when it REALLY matters, I've been known to spring for T&B.

I'm convinced almost all of them come from the same East Asian mud hut.

Yeah, I bend thinner wires back on themselves to crimp them, too.  And like Stan, the ones done that way seem to hold forever.

I bought a large kit of assorted crimp terminals from a vendor booth at Carlisle, once.  Turned out they must have come from Stan’s source in the mud hut.  After struggling with them (they looked good, but were truly junk) I finally trashed the entire kit and went back to NAPA.

A truly great wiring job is only one bad crimp away from disastah.

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