Brass T-Fitting function

Can you post some pictures?

The stock fuel hardline is plenty to run everything except a race engine. I ran stainless steel tubing between the fuel pump and carbs with a stainless Tee. I only used short lengths of hose to connect the hardline to the carbs and pump. The less hose the better.

.250" tubing with 7mm (Fuel injection) hose works well.

Stainless fittings for flair and for compression

Stainless clamps with rolled edges. Standard worm style and ABA band clamps Black hose is 7mm and grey is 5mm.

The brass portion that I messed up was the  part that led into the piece that feeds the two Carburetors in the back. I had to disassemble the two nuts to join that brass fitting together. When I went to put it back together again, it wouldn't fit. So there's a little straight piece inside the small line that fit into the larger line that had material around it. It's gotten jammed up, so I trimmed some of it off. I don't think that both my carburetors are getting the right amount of gas.

I strongly recommend replacing the clear glass filter with a metal filter. I've seen the seals on the glass leak over time and you can imagine what a fire does to a fiberglass car.

I used a Hastings GF-1 filter, they're like $5.

Good idea. I guess I liked the clear because I could always keep a check on gas flow and condition.

If your tank is clean, then change the filter every 10,000 miles. If it's rusty.. get it fixed

Meade, a lot of us and by that I mean almost everyone uses the metal filter and moves it outside the engine bay. Find where the fuel line comes out underneath the car and before it goes into the engine bay and put it in-line there. Any leaks will occur outside the engine bay and it will GREATLY reduce the fire hazard.

If one uses something like a Carter P60504 rotary pump with it's attached metal filter , how often should that filter be changed and who says so ? I can't find any data. Thanks.

Agree - glass filter is perhaps a little more durable than the plastic ones --- even when clamped.  But why poke a sleeping bear?  The metal ends can still leak even if glass doesn't break. Are those filters two way flow?  If not, maybe mounted backwards?  I think they have arrow indicating flow.

I haven't had any problems with the filters; my problem is with the connection from the gas tank back to where it splits and feeds the carbs.  I will buy the metal can filter but my problem is with the connection.  I have a length of copper tubing I can use with the connection, but do I still need that connection with the flare nut that connects to the hose that feeds the tube? It's early, but I'll take pictures of the internal part of that flare connection.

Meade

Ok, I  have 2 pictures here of the fitting. Whoever built this car used a hard rubber fuel line going from the front of the car to the back. Then they inserted a flare joint and that led into the T connection. I took pictures of both the male and female section.

Meade, will not fire up or will not stay running?

With the carb top off, looking into the carb and you activating the throttle do you see fuel.

Not sure why it's just not using a Tee with barbed ends.

What you have looks way more complicated than needed.

That's what I was doing just now and that is pulling the top of the carburetors to see if I was getting any gas. And I'm not. When I put the Jack under the car the first time, I think I put it underneath the wrong place and crushed the fuel line. I'm going to go ahead and run another line on the outside of the car, probably outside of that steel tube.

If the problem persists, replace the filters ( observing flow direction ).....  I had a "brand new" NAPA filter pack it in right out of the box......   Fuel flow was next to nothing, just barely enough to get above idle speeds.....  In the next to last photo, I think I see something in the end of the hose....  I assume this was a plug to avoid a spill....

Next question would be " Has the fuel pump died? "....

Little Brass Thingies strike again......  

Mad Duck posted:

Whoever built this car used a hard rubber fuel line going from the front of the car to the back.

That is really asking for trouble. Rubber hose deteriorates over time and can cause a leak or worse. I think in many states, it would not pass a safety inspection. You really need to replace it with a hardline inside the tunnel. Under the car it can be damaged by road debris.

Yeah, I agree with Glenn. Put a hard line in the tunnel and use the least amount of hose possible. I have a hard line front to back on my Spyder. It hits a T in the back, then hard line goes across and then up to each carb. Less than a foot of hose per side, and less than 2 feet in front from the tank to the pump and filter, then to the hard line.

The "plastic" line you have running through your tunnel is factory.  It may look like a drinking straw, but it is Tolene (sp?) brand fuel hose. which is OEM Mercedes fuel line for S. America.  It is 100% alcohol impervious, and I have never had to replace a piece of it due to deterioration (we've been using it since 1988).  It can be considered a "hard line".

On new builds, we still use it for aircooled cars, as 1/4" ID has proven to be plenty for even the largest N/A mills.  We couple it to Gates brand Barricade hose, which is a US spec rubber fuel his that is supposed to be safe for use with our 10-15% ethanol blended fuel.  I have never seen the brass fittings that are on your fuel line, someone added those.  The brass "T" however looks to be the stock part that CB sends on every motor.

I have that same plastic line in mine with no issues for 45k+ miles.  Also, it shouldn't be "crushable" from underneath the car.

OK, this is what I am going to do...I am going to try another fuel pump, even though this one is making electrical noises. But I can't test it because the fuel tanks right over it. So instead of running a new line I'm going to go ahead and try the other pump first ... After my birthday party. There is a little Pennsylvania Dutch saying, and it's something like ... too soon dumb, too late smart... 

Meade

Meade, the car was running before you tore it apart right? Have you looked in your gas tank, checked the tank screen? You could just have something blocking fuel flow...

How full is your tank, do you have a fuel filter up front and out back?

Remember you tried to pull the motor before unbolting it and you might be missing something very simple.

...like crimping the line?  That was the first thing I tried. I will still try the other pump. Thanks.

Are you getting fuel to the pump?

I just got back and am ready to get dirty again.  Yes, there's definitely gas getting to the pump; I'm going to try a different electric fuel pump. I KNOW that the carbs aren't getting any gas.

Stay tuned...

Meade

put an air hose on gas filler, 20-30 lbs seal with rag or something and see if gas  comes out right before carbs,,,,,might be some crap in line blocking flow or line is crimped somewhere

A note about fuel lines. I did a LOT of research last year about this, thinking that the lines I had maybe were not holding up to the ethanol.  It happens.  My lines were getting stiff, and when I fooled with them, my hands would come back a little black.  Did not like any part of that.  I could go on and on about all I saw, and there is plenty to see once you start digging, but here is the result: Needs to say SAE 30R9.  This spec not only requires imperviousness to ethanol and many other  fluids/fuels, but is also good for use with fuel injection, not that we need lots of pressure capability.  Also, stays flexible and has good heat resistance.  You can find it, but many places that sell fuel line don't bother to list the specs.  If you don't see the specs, its not going to be the right stuff, chances are.  And compared to regular old black Autozone hose, it is expensive.  Just a word or two to the wise. I'll try for a picture, stand by.

what it looks like.

Meade, did you remove the original fuel pump then put it back backwards maybe? It's unlikely that it just quite while you had the motor out for repairs.

Good idea but it was something else. As a matter of fact I left the original fuel filter there and just disconnected the lines and hooked up the other filter that I had, which turned out to be dead. I'm going to take some pictures now and show you what I found.

Back at the rear where the gas comes back to the motor it terminated it in a fitting. I have three photographs the first one is how it was originally set up, 2 with the piece that was supposed to go in to the female fitting and the third is how I'm going to set it up now. I'm not sure where that braided piece on the end of supposed to do, but I'm going to find out in a few minutes.

You mad bro:

I confess to not following all of this, but it occurs to me that somebody, not the Mad Duck, has worked too hard to make this too complicated.  really, it does not need to be complex.  Barbed fittings, and a few clamps.  I went with the snap-ring style clamps vs the SS screw and slot thingies.  Some would say that with barbed fittings and the correct diameter hose, you will not need any clamps.  We are only talking about a few psi here, and the screw-type clamps can get loose.

Also, I'm learning a lot about all sorts of stuff w/ this thread.  Can't wait for it all to come together.

OK, It's running...sort of...on 3 & 4.  I'll check the valves in the morning and the wiring.  I know the wires are in the right order.  it could be the carbs, as it sounds pretty strong when you accelerate  just sitting there.

I want to thank EVERYONE for their ideas and suggestions and continue to welcome suggestions.  I bought a VDO oil temperature gauge and pulled out the clock to free up the one remaining spot. (Anyone need a functioning VDO clock?) I'm really anxious to see what I screwed up to keep the right side from firing.  I'll do a compression test, just for the fun of it, before I check the valves.

Meade

"just for the fun of it" ummm Obi Wan, the Madness is strong in this one  ummm . . . 

OK, El Frazier, I hope leveled out your Learning Curve, just remember, KISS.

I'd ditch that funky set-up.

Can't wait to see it fixed!

Which setup should I ditch? I have so many...

El Frazoo posted:

A note about fuel lines. I did a LOT of research last year... Needs to say SAE 30R9.  This spec not only requires imperviousness to ethanol and many other  fluids/fuels, but is also....

Kelly, I have 30R10 written in my notes- did you run across this designation?

El Frazoo posted:

A note about fuel lines. I did a LOT of research last year about this, thinking that the lines I had maybe were not holding up to the ethanol.  It happens.  My lines were getting stiff, and when I fooled with them, my hands would come back a little black.  Did not like any part of that.  I could go on and on about all I saw, and there is plenty to see once you start digging, but here is the result: Needs to say SAE 30R9.  This spec not only requires imperviousness to ethanol and many other  fluids/fuels, but is also good for use with fuel injection, not that we need lots of pressure capability.  Also, stays flexible and has good heat resistance.  You can find it, but many places that sell fuel line don't bother to list the specs.  If you don't see the specs, its not going to be the right stuff, chances are.  And compared to regular old black Autozone hose, it is expensive.  Just a word or two to the wise. I'll try for a picture, stand by.

I just checked my new hose from CTC and it says SAE J30 R6 and when looking that up on the net it says..."low pressure hose for gas and gas/ethanol blends for use in carbureted engines....burst strength 175 psi   etc... "

Last time I had my engine out, i replaced all the fuel hose. After I cut open the old hose to inspect and it as like new, now a single sign of a problem. it was six year of German hose.