Brass T-Fitting function

OK, thanks.

Well, I got my engine back from the guys who REALLY  know how to do it...and it's absolutely amazing how much better an engine will run  WITHOUT an extra nut roaming around under the intake manifold...

THAT bit of stupidity only cost me a pair of 40'shoes I  had up in the attic...

 

I  cut away some unwanted fiberglass and was able to squeeze my engine back in with out  pulling the carbs.

Awesome. Now get out there and drive. 

Glad it's coming together for you!

I spoke too soon...it Really fine on the table, not so good in the car. I'm driving it over in the am.

What fiber glass did you have to cut?

Whoever built this one didn't trim the sides enough to allow passage of the carbs. I trimmed to the sides of the tube, and it fits with minimum cursing.

I've rather decimated the black apron rubber piece that seals the engine compartment and someone told me where I could find a replacement.  Does anyone have that source?

Meade

CIP1.

VWC-111-813-705-D Engine Compartment Seal / Beetle 68-74

$10.99

It is a heavy duty rubber, not the foam. I am replacing it on my car as well.

BobG posted:

CIP1.

VWC-111-813-705-D Engine Compartment Seal / Beetle 68-74

$10.99

It is a heavy duty rubber, not the foam. I am replacing it on my car as well.

You need the factory "C" channel for that seal.

Thanks guys, but someone quoted me 75.00 and it's the one that doesn't require the Chinese channel. ( my Beck is a 2004 model, if it matters. )

Now I'm confused. I thought you meant the compartment seal around the rear and side tins.  This goes between the body and the tins. There is also a foam one that is used in buses. Sorry if I misled you.

No problem; I just don't know the proper name for the part.

Meade

Not sure which one it is Meade without seeing a photo but this is the bus seal and it goes between the tines:

http://www.busdepot.com/411813225

If it is the one you need you'll notice when you get it the foam will have a shiny side (treated) and a regular foam side. The shiny side goes toward the outside of the engine compartment. It is treated so it won't melt when next to the exhaust.

 

Nope, look at my picture. 

That looks like Lowes hall runner mat cut to shape.  You can get thin rubber with woven cloth center core.  My brother owns rubber gasket/hose company in NJ and he gave me some to make inner wheel wheel splash shield for my Toyota 4Runner after original disintegrated.

Mad Duck posted:

Nope, look at my picture. 

Okay, so the IM and the VS built Speedsters are pretty different in this area.  With a VS built Speedster there is a gap between the tin pieces that gives you a good view of the ground all the way around the tin and that is where the bus seal goes. Greg is right, it looks like someone trimmed something to lay over the gap. 

What does it look like if that rubber mat thing is moved away?

Here's what mine looks like with the bus seal installed:

Mine has a similar rubber mat.  I believe that you can buy it anywhere and cut to shape.

Mine was assembled somewhere in North Carolina by strategic carriages or something like that. I assumed that it was built by Beck, and if I had known it was built outside of the factory, I probably wouldn't have bought it.

With that rubber mat apron in place, you can't see through to the road. If anyone knows of any type of materialstuff I could use, let me know.

Mad Duck posted:

Mine was assembled somewhere in North Carolina by strategic carriages or something like that. I assumed that it was built by Beck, and if I had known it was built outside of the factory, I probably wouldn't have bought it.

With that rubber mat apron in place, you can't see through to the road. If anyone knows of any type of materialstuff I could use, let me know.

What does it look like if you remove it?

Others on here have fabricated there own pieces from aluminum, fiberglass, or other materials. Could you fabricate something that would allow you to use a bus seal??

I guess I could make mine out of aluminum and then then screw it back in.

Meade

That would look much nicer.

I'll probably get my wife to cut it out for me. My ability to draw, cut and past, and draw straight lines are laughable.  When I taught high school, my kids would usually question the gender of my stick figures...

The Beck factory seal (for aircooled) is custom made from high temp rubber sheet, and then hand trimmed per car.  It rivets to both the engine tin and the fiberglass engine surround/apron.

I've seen many cars with lower grade rubber seals cut to fit and they seemed to work just fine, although a bit "soft" with the higher engine bay temps.

We do not use any of the OE VW style rubbers, as they don't fit our engine bay...

 

Is that part listed on the Beck website?

No.  You'd have to call Brad in our office for that one.

One filter before the T. Check the fuel pressure coming from the pump (3-3.5lps), if the pump pressure is good, put the T on and check the fuel pressure on both sides. They should be the same, if not. your T may have something blocking or just a bad one. 

It really looks to me like you've got to much going on in regards to connection points.

Anthony said: If I understand you right, the end of end line after the T your feel you have more fuel flow than the other.. If so. Don't worry about it. Once they are connected to the carbs, the needle/seat for the float controls the fuel flow.  I have seen those "t's" collapse when tightened.  If your doing all this I suggest get a brass t block, tap it for a fuel pressure gauge.  One other thing if you pinch the hose closed that flows good does the other hose begin to flow more?  

If that were true, both the fuel filters which are clear, would have the same amount of gas in them. But that's not true. The one with the low flow has very little gas showing in the filter.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: "SpeedsterOwners.com" <**************> Date: 6/25/16 11:56 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Meade <meadeduck@bellsouth.net> Subject: Reply By crhemi (Bill): Brass T-Fitting function

Swap them (filters) around left to right, right to left and see what happens.

I did that, and it wasn't any difference. I can't find any more brass fitting  because brass is so expensive. I did get a nylon fitting and I'll try that, just for the fun of it.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: "SpeedsterOwners.com" <**************> Date: 6/25/16 12:14 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Meade <meadeduck@bellsouth.net> Subject: Reply By crhemi (Bill): Brass T-Fitting function

…done did...
> On Jun 25, 2016, at 12:14 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <**************> wrote:
>

Lets get this thing running proper THIS weekend! Can't wait to hear how much fun you're having driving it...

Just to confirm, Do you have 3-3.5psi to the T?

Yup, that's on MY Bucket List...


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: "SpeedsterOwners.com" <**************> Date: 6/25/16 2:55 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Meade <meadeduck@bellsouth.net> Subject: Reply By crhemi (Bill): Brass T-Fitting function

Don't have a compression gauge. I  might get one at the big box store. I need to go down right now.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: "SpeedsterOwners.com" <**************> Date: 6/25/16 2:57 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Meade <meadeduck@bellsouth.net> Subject: Reply By crhemi (Bill): Brass T-Fitting function

Any luck yet?

 

Nope. I changed the "T" configuration to no avail. I  am going to pull the tops off and check float levels.

Thanks

Wait!. Didn't you say you where NOT getting enough gas to the one carb?

Did you confirm fuel pressure?

Yes, but I want to confirm by getting a fuel pressure gauge.
> On Jun 26, 2016, at 12:00 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <**************> wrote:
>