That's what I meant and I thought you went to the big box store to get what you needed (pressure gauge and new "Brass barbed T fitting"...fuel pressure appears to be the problem. This was mentioned a couple of months ago!
A combo fuel/air pressure gauge is small money and will save you a lot of wasted time.
It's a process of elimination and it's always best to start with simple stuff first Meade.
I have the same reading on both sides of the Tee. It looks like 2psi.
There's not a ball bearing in that assembly, is there?
You need 3-3.5 for Webers if I'm not mistaken...Can't say if that's "the" problem you're having but it will be on the open road.
Make sure all your plug wires are in the right place,if one is off and it will never be happy.
I thought I wasn't by virtue of the amount of gas that was coming off one of the Tee fittings. I just tried to start the car but the battery was dead.
I hate to break it to you, Bill, but if 1 is off there's another as well. Just sayin'...
Al, thanks for making me feel good about myself...sometimes the brain and fingers in this unit don't sync.
But enough with my issues, let's help Meade! I hate to see this poor guy not able to enjoy his car and it's going on 3 months almost...
Got my engine cranked, and if it runs this good on two cylinders, the other two will be a kick in da pants... I messed with the adjustments on the bad side, switched out plug wires, checked the valves, sacrificed a couple of chickens and lit a candle. Sumpthin's gotta give. (My new cheap carbs should be arriving any day, so long as the monsoon season doesn't swamp the boat...)
You still need a fuel pump that puts out enough gas to keep those carbs (new or old) fed!
Geez Meade, this is starting to sound a LOT like the carb issue I had a year and a half ago. Check your choke bloke off plate for leaking fuel on the bad side.
Ok, thanks.
If you find leaking fuel, you have a problem in one of the choke circuits and are flooding at least one cylinder. I would be surprised if you have the same problem I did but there sound like a lot of similarities.
I checked but nothing was coming out of that plate. When I first cranked it and started it up, a TON of raw gas came out the muffler and wet everything on the flooor.
nasty
I'll bet if you pull the plugs on that side they'll be wet. Have you, by any chance, taken the tops off of the carbs? When I did that one of the choke, um, thingies went flying and I didn't see it. I fought it for a couple of months before I figured it out.
Take heart, Meade. This could make you famous.
Lane's entire carburetor experience was chronicled in a lengthy thread here and was later turned into a screenplay by the Coen brothers. The feature length film is being released this fall.
Look for "Little Brass Thingy" in theaters, on DVD, and through most major streaming services.
Lane, do you mean did I take the choke plate off? I did and nothing flew out at me...I don't think. I'd check, but I've sworn off taking apart Weber carburetors for at least a week. Next time I take them off, it will be to replace them with some other form of carburetion, possibly a tin can operated with a piece of number 9 fishing line...
Meade posted:Lane, do you mean did I take the choke plate off? I did and nothing flew out at me...I don't think. I'd check, but I've sworn off taking apart Weber carburetors for at least a week. Next time I take them off, it will be to replace them with some other form of carburetion, possibly a tin can operated with a piece of number 9 fishing line...
I like that you still have a sense of humor!
What else do I have left??
Meade- Figure out the Webers; the tin can/fishing line combo has an incredible flat spot from 1200- about 2800 or 3,000rpm that no one has ever been able to tune out. Now dual tin cans...
Seriously- have you compared the top bowl gasket of the properly running carburetor with the gasket of the not so well running unit? IIrc there has been at least 1 instance where a batch of gaskets didn't have all the holes for the passageways punched into them...
And that's just mean, Mitch (but I like it! 
). I'm sorry, Lane, but it looks like this is going to last well past eternity! Yoda out.
A trusty set of sumphin' helps. I have some 40 Dellorotos that I can slap on if something tain't right. If they run on the 40s, and not on whatever I've got-- it's fuel. Otherwise, it's ignition.
I'd recommend getting some help.
Meade - Re. taking the choke block-off (not "bloke off" - wish I could type) plate off, not initially. In my case that's how I finally identified the problem after replacing the ENTIRE ignition system, resealing and tightening the manifolds, cleaning and rebuilding the carbs, etc. When I first removed the top of one carb one of the brass snap-rings that holds the choke assembly in under spring tension let go and parts went flying. This had happened before, but only the spring and a small brass piece had come out. I found this parts and put them back in. What I didn't notice was that THIS time the choke piston-like thing (not sure what it's called), aka the "little brass thingie" (LBT) that usually lives under the spring also came out, never to be seen again. With that out, cylinder #2 was getting drowned in gas. When I finally discovered the fuel leak I removed the brass plate for the first time and noticed the empty space where the LBT was supposed to be.
As I said, I kind of doubt this is your problem but it sure sounds similar. The car ran like crap on three cylinders, backfiring, sputtering, no power, etc. I hope you find the problem soon. I know how discouraging it can be to fight something like this.
Ok, then it's not the same. You're running the 40s, right? If you have a "spring lever mechanism" then you may have a complete choke mechanism. I wonder if that could have gotten boogered up (technical term) somehow, making you run extremely rich on that side.
If I am misremembering and you're running the 44s (same as I am) then it could be the same thing because "I do remember something coming out at some point and I thought it was underneath one of those choke block off plates". I dunno... Kinda hard to diagnose remotely. Sorry if I'm leading you down the wrong path.
...and change the oil!
The 40s are different choke assemblies but will check for blockage.
...and it's been a while, so, briefly, I got my title, I'm using the cheap hpmx carbs with .60 jets, took the gas tank out and had it acid-dipped, bought another fuel pump because it was not delivering a very strong (it was a trickle) stream, and noted that I need to replace a lower balljoint on the right front. I seems to run fine for a couple of days, then the jets get clogged again. I pull them out and blow them out and it runs ok. It really seems to run worse when I fill the tank up. I'm thinking about pulling the tank again and taking it back to the people that did it and have them dip it again.
Leon was The Man in helping me straighten things out.
You may need to flush or replace your fuel lines and filters. If the tank was dirty they are too.
...pardon the ignorant question, but how does one go about running new fuel lines...? I flushed the lines every time I pulled the tank (MAY times), and still got the same results. I'm seriously thinking of putting a blueprinted 1600 engine in the car and see if it displays same symptoms...
Where are you getting your gas from? Have you tried flushing through a coffee filter?
I may have mentioned it before, BUT one of the things that we've found is that the ethanol fuel will eat at the floats. It actually causes the plastic to separate in layers and it flakes into the float bowl in small chunks. This is already past every filter, so from there is gets pulled through jets, accelerator pump, etc... It is now our standard practice to replace floats when we do a carb rebuild or major cleaning.
As for replacing fuel lines, the plastic line through your tunnel is Tolene, an alcohol impervious hose made by Mercedes of Brazil, and I don;t see any need to change it. I have never seen it fail or dry out or anything... The rubber lines that are NOT ethanol safe (based the date of your build) and can be switched to something like Gates Barricade (alcohol/ethanol safe) 1/4" non EFI hose would be; the hose from the tank outlet to the Tolene line, the hose from the Tolene line to the brass T in theenign eBay, the hoses out of the T to the carbs (and of course you'll have 2 or 3 inline filters that go in the new hose also)
So if it is the floats deteriorating, how long does it take on a brand new set of carbs?
I have seen some starting to peel off layers of plastic after just a season or two, but I've seen it very pronounced on most of the used cars we take in, which seem to stick in the 6-10 year old range. That said, it is hard for us to know what blend of ethanol someone is using (if they even know), who is using an additive and how regularly, and who is getting non ethanol fuels. Around here, everything is 10-15% ethanol and a 10% blend is often times not noticed because the pump has a single small sticker that says "may contain up to 10% ethanol". We have to "search" for non ethanol fuels...
I may have found the problem in that the adjustment rod on the left carb is loose. Im going to reset the nuts and see how much that changes everything.
