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I will be picking up a new speedster from Vintage Speedster next week and will be breaking it in on the way home to Seattle. This is 1200 Miles so most of the break in will hapen on the way home presenting oil change and logictical problems.

Engine is 1915cc with external oil filter

Who do folks think is the best approach:

1. Drive the 1200 miles with breakin oil as provided by Kirk and change once in seattle

2. Buy own oil and get jiffy lube to drain on the way, and fill with my own oil) Can/will Jiffy lube or equivalent do this with out creating issues? Not sure how the 1915 cc engine comes w equipt (plain drain plug or screes and multiple bolts)

3. Find good VW shop in Santa Cruz or San Francisco to do the 500 mile change/work (recomendations)

Interested in opinions...

Matt
1958 Vintage Speedsters(Speedster)
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I will be picking up a new speedster from Vintage Speedster next week and will be breaking it in on the way home to Seattle. This is 1200 Miles so most of the break in will hapen on the way home presenting oil change and logictical problems.

Engine is 1915cc with external oil filter

Who do folks think is the best approach:

1. Drive the 1200 miles with breakin oil as provided by Kirk and change once in seattle

2. Buy own oil and get jiffy lube to drain on the way, and fill with my own oil) Can/will Jiffy lube or equivalent do this with out creating issues? Not sure how the 1915 cc engine comes w equipt (plain drain plug or screes and multiple bolts)

3. Find good VW shop in Santa Cruz or San Francisco to do the 500 mile change/work (recomendations)

Interested in opinions...

Matt
I wouldn't let Jifffy Lube touch my car! Unless you've added a drain plug, you need to remove the sump plate to drain. When you reinstall, you have to be REALLY careful not to overtorque and strip out due to it being made put of aluminum or magnesium (I don't remember which). Halfway between full and low on the Dipstick is a good target. There are probably some of us on your route home. Great opportunity to make a new friend and change your oil safely. Brad Penn Racing Oil (green) (or whatever Kirk recommends). In addition to that, your valves probably should be adjusted at the same time. With that being said, you could probably just drive it home and then deal with everything. Your warranty is with Kirk, that's who I would go by.
Do they sell those disposable "oil change boxes" in California? If they do,then buy one of those and do it yourself. You can also try the oil I use in my Vintage BMW motorcycles (one worth 25K)this oil is Valvoline VR-1 racing oil with ZDDP added and is formulated for solid lifter motors. I would use the 30 or 40wt. I have used this oil for years,it is good stuff. DO NOT let Jiffy lube touch your car,they do not employ mechanics,just "oil change guys"..a good mechanic would not be working at Jiffy Lube.


Matt---congrats--you done good! Pretty car and I like the combo of that particular green and the light tan interior---veddy nice.

Glad your trip was uneventful.

How about some particulars like what MPG did you get? Amount of oil used? How fast you drove? How the car handled? What you ended up doing about an oil change?

Livin' the dream!

Kirk suggested I just drive it home and change it when I got to seattle, so did not have to do an on the road oil change. I added 1 Pint at approx 400 miles to bring it up to "between the 2 lines" on the dip stick.

Milage improved with 25mph for the first 3 tanks (mid grade 89ish) and up to 31mpg on the flater last 500 miles. Noticed a little pre ignition (mostly at idle) in the last 300 miles so likly need the timing adjusted.

Shifting was "hard" for the first 300 miles but improved as the bushing wore in, and I plan on putting some lube on the mechnisn fo rgears slid in more easily

Oil was mostly clean, not burned or gassy smelling so temperatures were under control. The hotest it got was 3/4 on the VS gauge in northern CA going up the big grades at 80 degs air temp. I plan in cuting the oil filter open to see what if anything was picked up, and will update folks when I do.

The only issues I had were some gauge weirdness that should be easy to sort out and a minor 90wt oil drip from the rear left bearing.
Matt..... Address that leaking axel seal immediately..... The oil will ruin the brake shoes if not repaired quickley..... If the shoes are already soaked, replace both sides.... Befor replacing the axle seal, inspect the spacer that the seal's inner surface rides on. It should slide off easily, once the seal housing is removed. I usually replace it after installing the seal housing with the new seal.... The spacer surface is critical. The smallest ding, nick, or scratch allows oil to leak on every revolution of the axle... You may have had the misfortune of getting a "bad" seal.... Stuff Happens.
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