Brock B Coupe build

Your gonna have a lot of fun Brock ! When finished and driving it, you're going to get a lot of TUMs.  (Thumbs Up per Mile).  ..........Bruce

First stage of the chassis.....

Keep in mind that if you weld in flat floors ( Beetles have the "paint roller pan style dip") your head will be closer to the roof but with a coupe that may not be a concern.

Alan, yes it will have a flat floor (working on it right now)  but i was figuring on adding a drop in when i find exactly where the seats will be.

@Brock B

Great news on being able to start your project, Brock! There will surely be many interested followers of your build. As a visual reference, here are a couple of pics of dropped floor pans one of our SOCers used in his Speedster to lower seat and sitting positions. 

That wheel belongs in the  Emory P car  

Have you seen IM frames?  They are substantially bigger box sections of steel.  If your going to redo the pan you could really add to the rigidity by adding more substantial metal which would make the car safer as well...

 Just saying. here is a pict of a Beam frame.. 

Sub framework....the VS / JPS framework is almost the same configuration as CMC FF etc. They are solid and well engineered.   The super wide body speedster I had was hit on an angle by a Escalade . Despite the fiberglass looking worse than it was, the box frame work held up very well with a minor 3/4" pull needed at the driver's side kick panel base. 

Well that is good news, our motorcycles sometimes cause me to ponder what if ....

Jim yes i am going to do something similar with my drop, 2" should be enough. 

I think i should have went with 4" rails but its done now so no do overs. Mine is stout 2x2x3/16 and .060 thick foors and a coming soon full 10 pt cage......I just hope i never have to test it out!

Yes that is everyone's hope.  I did think at one time about how I could reinforce the doors ... just saying.... fear can get you .

This stream of safety bits about our cars reminds me of when I was learning to drive, (officially & legally) with my dad. He was a great educator and a Dr. of Laws, high up administrator of our schools system, etc. He said, "as you enter the drivers door each time, picture yourself climbing into an eggshell."   And, he followed it up with a basic law of physics saying, "no two pieces of matter can occupy the same place at the same time!" 

So, in short, "don't drive like your in a bumper car at an amusement park!" 

Happened on an accident that I wish I had seen happen.  A Corvette was hit in an intersection and apparently started spinning.    Pieces of all the exterior body panels were in the street at all points of the compass.  The unhurt and very perplexed driver was still behind the wheel sitting in the remains of his car.

IaM-Ray posted:

Have you seen IM frames?  They are substantially bigger box sections of steel.  If your going to redo the pan you could really add to the rigidity by adding more substantial metal which would make the car safer as well...

 Just saying. here is a pict of a Beam frame.. 

 

Looks like SAS has similar box frame

Remember the Enzo crash on PCH in Malibu back in 2006.  Estimated speed was 120mph and the wreckage was spread over 1200 ft.  Both the driver and the passenger walked away.

They had a whole episode with autobiography for that crash. 

Ok please lets not turn this thread into crashathon.

Painted chassis........

Bang... just kidding ... looking good

Are you doing the welding ? Don't forget to fabricate and install a Kafer bar set up Brock. How bout running a nice straight piece if 1/2" conduit front to rear for the wiring ? Steel fuel line or copper ?

I like that you're going to cut in seat pans later. Think about seat belt placement and reinforcement for them. Will you have a roll bar ?

Nice work so far Brock..............Bruce

Bruce, yes I will be doing it all welding, engine , body paint, interior ect.

Kafer bar? Never heard of that, please explain.

Seat belt will be done after seats, retractor will be bolted to the chassis, shoulder to the cage and latch to the tunnel.

Good idea for the wiring conduit! 

Stainless fuel line if i can find a piece long enough. 

Thanks for the help.

Since it looks like door hinges are mounted - it appears you have a steel sub-frame already in the body (just like CMC and others have).

WOW!  Brock, you're moving quick, and looking good doing it!

A Kafer Bar ties together the transaxle, the frame horns and the upper shock mounts.  There are a bunch of makers, but you have a welder, so you're set up for some home cooking' if you feel like it. Here's a picture of one.

Brock: It looks great! I used Por-15 on my chassis when I welded it all up in the early 80's,  It still looks good and has not been stored in heated garages or even always under full cover!  Just a suggestion. I have used it on old Bugs and Buses that I have restored to good success. I have no money in the game, just like the product!

P.S. Be sure to wear gloves!  This stuff gets into the pores of your skin... 

Jim

Wolfgang,  it does have steel inserts in the hinge area of the body and doors. It does not come mounted though and i am still figuring how to drill the door correctly.

Right now i am thinking of setting my gaps and use a lil bondo to glue the door to the hinge long enough to drill. The add a nut plate inside the body for minor adjustments. 

Michael,  i have seen those just didn't know what they were called. Should be easy to make. Thanks 

So does the coupe not have the huge inner rocker panels that pan based speedsters have?  Those huge inner rockers always bother me on the pan based speedsters. I understand why they are that way to expand/make wider the beetle pan.  Just don’t know why no one ever thought of just going with ghia or type 2 pans and making that inner rocker more like a real 356. 

Safety Jim, i have used POR15 before it works good. This is Rustoleum rust stop spray and it has worked good in the past for me also.

Thanks 

Also most of what i am posting happened a few days ago.......

Paul ,no this body does not have the inner long like a real one does but it looks like it would be easy to make. 

Brock, could you post some pictures of the hinge area and inner rockers so we can see the details.  Thanks,  Rick.

PaulEnvemo posted:

So does the coupe not have the huge inner rocker panels that pan based speedsters have?  Those huge inner rockers always bother me on the pan based speedsters. I understand why they are that way to expand/make wider the beetle pan.  Just don’t know why no one ever thought of just going with ghia or type 2 pans and making that inner rocker more like a real 356. 

Well ,that is why if your going to bother welding up your own pan you could expand the floor area and make the sills the right size and then you will have more width to accomodate better seats etc.  I don't know why one would not contemplate doing this at this build point.  

IM and SE, have wider interior space including foot wells and it helps if your feet are size 12 or more... Feel free to disregard all comments.

Ray 

BTW enjoy the build we will enjoy it as well.  

Big feet..big floor pan. 

I'm a big guy to so the more room the better. 

Here is a pic of the front jamb and how the rear one is shaped like it would have been for the inner long.

Ray , im listening to everything being said!

Pan based car,  big feet will be a problem with the pedals... post a pic of the body left kick panel area, there is a way to make a bit more room

You can even look up and there is a pedal cluster that seperates the clutch from the brake a bit more for wide feet and they can even put a roller for the gaz pedal if you want.  (your choice) 

Actually, it is a pretty cool setup as they even reinforce the clutch set up HOOK with an even  stronger clutch arm to prevent breakage.   

Anyway, tremendous possibilities for big feet.  

Hi Folks,   Some builders choose to make their own chassis.   I have had a square tube subchassis designed that is rigid with a Beetle pan that is shortened.  The subchassis can also act as a template for the builder that is shortening his own Beetle.  This has proved  efficient in Canada and Australia where it is much easier to modify an existing licensed VW instead of going through the special build process there.

The lateral "wings" on the subchassis match up to the rocker panels in the Coupe.  I bond into the fiberglass  a steel plate that is 36" X 3"  X 1/4" into the rocker panels so the body can be bolted to the subchassis /chassis on the outer part and the chassis can be bolted to the inner part of the "wings".   For heavier usage/ racing, I have a tube chassis which is more rigid.

Yes, there are steel plates bonded into the fiberglass on the doors and the A pillar for strength in mounting the doors. The best way to mount hinges ( as Brock figured out)  is to glue hinges in place and check the door fitment prior to drilling and bolting on of the body.

Hope that helps with the questions asked.

Cheers,

Dr. Chris

@Chris Kleber,Kitman Motor  When you sell a fiberglass body do you provide any build information i.e. instruction - supply list or does the buyer need to resource same on their own ?

I’m using the Kitman chassis on my build

@Walka. Can you post the dimensions curious how wide it is ?