Maybe I missed something, but how on earth will you get the upholstery done in the back of the interior? Are your arms stretchy like that guy in the Fantastic 4? 
Lane Anderson posted:Maybe I missed something, but how on earth will you get the upholstery done in the back of the interior? Are your arms stretchy like that guy in the Fantastic 4?
I'm guessing Brock has a more traditional hotrod background and all the aluminum panel work in the back is the interior, Lane
Most likely it will only be carpet in the back anyway. I really would have liked the rear section be stock looking then i would have just painted it. Almost bought a Speedster clinic body just because of the back seat area.
Brock B posted:Most likely it will only be carpet in the back anyway. I really would have liked the rear section be stock looking then i would have just painted it. Almost bought a Speedster clinic body just because of the back seat area.
Brock,
Rusty Tubs sells an insert for the backseat ... er, maybe next project.
Rick sells one for a Speedster not quite the same and yeah way past doing that!
Brock B posted:Rick sells one for a Speedster not quite the same and yeah way past doing that!
Whose Rick? Is this someone I should know?
He ownes Rusty Tubs, I bought a couple real 356's from him a bunch of years back......(wish i still had em!)
Pass side A pillar and the roof hoop done.
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Hmm, with that kind of cabin bracing, remind me of what engine you plan on putting in this beast. Saturn 5, SR-71? I pity your competitors at the track.
Mike
I like it as it will be strengthening the whole car graeat
Mike, fairly nasty 1915cc vw.......
Ray, it should but hopefully it will be safer also.
Define 'fairly nasty 1915cc vw'...
I really, really like the roll cage. Will you install a headliner? Or is it close to impossible to install a headliner once the roll cage has been installed? How do you paint the roll cage without overspray getting all over? Painter's tape and paper?
Alb, 1915cc, 9.5 or 10.0 compression, hyper pistons, FK87 cam,full flow oiling, stock crank amd rods, 44mm carbs, merged header very little muffler.
I got a deal on a already built long block but the cam is to big for the compression (or the comp is to low) and i would have done better rods. But i couldn't beat the price.
Todd, yes on the headliner i will use some of the foam backed hl material and glue it to the roof after sound deadiner. Painting it will be done when i cut in the door jambs and rear seat area, they will all be body color.
We have seen pool noodles used over roll bars
Brock,
Did you receive the glove box cover? Was supposed to arrive at your place last Saturday..
Chris
IaM-Ray posted:We have seen pool noodles used over roll bars
They won't let you on Lime Rock with pool noodles.....
This car wont be tracked by me, it just a hot street outcast coupe!
Chris, yes i did thank you again for sending it out so quickly!
Well this morining i have come to a couple stark realizations......
1) I dont fit in this car very well, dont remember being this hard to get in and out of the last real one i had 10 years ago!
2) This cage is real close when in the seat so bumping my head is very easy to do, not sure if i should leave it in or not.
Brock B posted:This car wont be tracked by me, it just a hot street outcast coupe!
Chris, yes i did thank you again for sending it out so quickly!
Well this morining i have come to a couple stark realizations......
1) I dont fit in this car very well, dont remember being this hard to get in and out of the last real one i had 10 years ago!
2) This cage is real close when in the seat so bumping my head is very easy to do, not sure if i should leave it in or not.
I am of the opinion that a roll bar that you hit your head on is more dangerous than no roll bar/cage. Can you move it back?
Todd, that may very well be true.
I think the bar that goes toward the windshield (up in the roof) is the one that would need to go if any of them do. The x bar is close but i also would make a great spot for a comfy soft ( and safer ) head rest to go.
Both issues may be made easier/ better by lowering the floor (as I keep advocating).
Stan, maybe but the door opening is only so big and setting in the seat at a reasonable position puts my eye sight almost perfect in the center of the windshield and door window openings.
Fact is while i am just as big as i was then i just dont fold up as well........
Stan Galat posted:Both issues may be made easier/ better by lowering the floor (as I keep advocating).
Stan just wants it to fit him to be able to drive it! LOL
Busted.
I'm sure Brock already knows this, but, for the rest of us, strongly-held opinions about roll bars/cages are common among car nuts. One extreme position holds that, unless you wear a helmet at all times, you are better off without a roll bar, as the bar itself will cause more injuries to the driver in a rollover than the crash itself. No exceptions, no wiggle room, no slack.
A more moderate view is that a well-constructed, weld-in or bolt-in bar or cage can benefit the driver if there is sufficient head space between the bar and the driver's head in event of a crash, and if the driver is suitably supported by a harness belt system . One associated benefit of a bar or harness is that a 4 or 5-point belt system is now possible, due to the cross bar attachment being above the driver's shoulders.
The various racing authorities have strict regulations about placement, material specs, method of attachment, etc. that make the the Code of Federal Regulations sound vague.
I installed a 1/2 cage about 3 years ago with harness belts. It may also have stiffened the car slightly, but that may just be wishful thinking on my part.
I have the "low as possible" seats on my personal coupe Green one....www.rcnmag.com/garage/wisdom-teeth
No sliding rails.. bolted right about 2 inches above the pans. Seats as far back as I can against the firewall ( mid engine car.. Subie) 1 am 6'3" tall and it is like a folding spider when I get in the seat, but I am comfortable once seated. The tube roll cage in my car inside clears my head by about 3 to 4 inches. With regular height seat rails, my head hit the roof.🙁
This fact is why we redesigned the roof of the Coupe Kit. Extra Coremat in the A pillars and double layer coremat in the roof for strength instead of a roll cage design. Most regular drivers can do without the roll cage unless they are racing the car.
Cheers, Chris
Ture cages are dangerous on the street, i have had to deal with them before in a Pro Street 70 Camaro and if i have to (if i still have it ) i will wear a bicycle helmet when i drive it.
I googled to get the straight scoop on roll cages.
I don't think I even wanna drive now.
Fact is in one of these lil cars, real one , replica, coupe , speedster or a bug if you get hit you are in serious trouble........old and or old small cars do not stand a chance against modern cars.
My floor is probably 3 or 4 inches lower than a pan-based car, and I am also bolted directly to the floor and pitched back like a Gemini astronaut. I’m only 6 feet tall, but when I sit in my car, I’m nicely tucked in. In a “normal” Speedster, my eyes are level with the top of the windshield.
I joke all the time about how unusual my proportions are, but it’s not like I’m the only man in America with a long torso. I would absolutely leave the cage in the car, and absolutely drop the floor several inches to accommodate any similarly proportioned future buyer if it were me (which it’s clearly not, and Brock sure doesn’t need my advice).
The cage, especially in the A pillars and across the top of the windshield is a very, very attractive feature. I would recommend doing whatever it takes to make sure it’s not possible to hit your head.
I had always wondered how well a speedster replica would hold up in an accident. This super wide VS with just 300 miles on the clock. It was hit by a full sized SUV - a Cadillac Escalade. After learning the details as to how the two vehicles collided and carefully inspecting the damage surprisingly, the car held up very well. Yes the fiberglass gave way as expected but the only area of the 2 x 4 steel box frame lower left kick panel moves only 5/8" inch and that was impressive. the axle beam and frame head also had moderate damage.
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Hmmm... Now where have I seen similar images before?
Stan Galat posted:My floor is probably 3 or 4 inches lower than a pan-based car, and I am also bolted directly to the floor and pitched back like a Gemini astronaut. I’m only 6 feet tall, but when I sit in my car, I’m nicely tucked in. In a “normal” Speedster, my eyes are level with the top of the windshield.
I joke all the time about how unusual my proportions are, but it’s not like I’m the only man in America with a long torso. I would absolutely leave the cage in the car, and absolutely drop the floor several inches to accommodate any similarly proportioned future buyer if it were me (which it’s clearly not, and Brock sure doesn’t need my advice).
The cage, especially in the A pillars and across the top of the windshield is a very, very attractive feature. I would recommend doing whatever it takes to make sure it’s not possible to hit your head.
I guess having a lower floor would do it and a higher track or power seat could help all body styles.
Marty has power seats
contact El Guapo
Yeah..........
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Nice
Got these cut cut and installed
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Driver door latched, almost done with the pass side.
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Brock, keep 'em coming, looks great!
Brock, there is a question for you on the following thread: https://www.speedsterowners.co...3#599032067559420883