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Alan, what size wheels did you go with? I thought I read something about 17 inch wheels. The ones in the pics look good. I did that on my first widebody vintage because I thought it looked cool; but I grew up. Nothing bigger than 16 in my opinion. It’s just looks hot rod and not “outlaw” and to me there’s a difference. That is what is  so cool about the Emory cars.

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Alan, what size wheels did you go with? I thought I read something about 17 inch wheels. The ones in the pics look good. I did that on my first widebody vintage because I thought it looked cool; but I grew up. Nothing bigger than 16 in my opinion. It’s just looks hot rod and not “outlaw” and to me there’s a difference. That is what is  so cool about the Emory cars.

Sold the 17's that came with the Speedster. The new wheels are from "Moblewagen"  #520P Interceptors. 5 -1/2 x 15 's

Tires are 185 x 65 x 15 .......... they allowed for 7/16" rear tires to wheel well clearance.

Outlaw: The Kafer bars that I had previously installed on the rolling chassis interfered with bolting down the body, had to remove them, bolt the body to the chassis replaced the Kafer bars. In doing so,  I found the horizontal bar that runs from top of the shocks had minimal threads into the bar because of the Mendeola custom suspension. Tomorrow, I'll weld a sleeve to extend it the bar 1-1/2 ".  I had time later today to  install the 2165 engine too.  Tomorrow I'll finish the carb linkage, test fit the fan - oil cooler and remote oil filter housing, then prep the driver's hoop style show- roll bar that's going to powder coating next week. 

@Alan Merklin, before you go cutting the horizontal bar, I would look into installing a spacer between the upper shock tower and the shock. It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but I think the shock is leaning into the tower. The Mendeola suspension should have no effect on that Kafer bar, as the shock towers are in the stock location, the only thing that is different is the shock absorbers.

@LI-Rick posted:

@Alan Merklin, before you go cutting the horizontal bar, I would look into installing a spacer between the upper shock tower and the shock. It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but I think the shock is leaning into the tower. The Mendeola suspension should have no effect on that Kafer bar, as the shock towers are in the stock location, the only thing that is different is the shock absorbers.

Thanks but spacers will change the vertical geometry of the shorter bars ... I had to change where they are mounted on the solid trans cradle mount so I don't have the clearance. Sleeving the long bar to increase the length is by best choice.

Yes, it's out being powder coated... I reconfigured the top frame to store under the hard tonneau without having to remove the horizontal doll bar support. Is either top up and roll bar hop can remain, top down with cloth quarter boot or down with hard tonnneau cover.

Of all the cars that you built Alain this one is my favorite. It’s too bad it can’t make its way north of the 49th. I would have to leave it in Marty‘s garage somewhere Naples or Chicago.

Outlaw project: After initially bolting the body to the chassis, the top of the pedal pads were close to the underside of the fiberglass area below the tank, rather than shorten the pedals I reconfigured the tank fiberglass area. Also have made up the forward and rear 12 gauge aluminum cabin bulkheads that will get riveted, foamed and seam sealed.  The top edges of the dual carbs just hit the inner edge of the deck lid so minor trimming was needed there. The R& P two universal steering shaft and column are now installed, horn grills and all lights are now done, routed the new Vintage Motorcars harness.  The battery that now has a Key Fob remote battery cut off switch   (Amazon) wiring the dash, wiper motor, gauges w/ GPS speedo ( Beck)  switches & ground block. Did adapters for the side quarter air intakes using 3" PVC couplings and heavy aluminum dryer hose. The speedster trunk is not as deep as others,  had to remove all but 1" inch of the tank neck to fit. Master cylinder decided to start weeping yesterday where the nylon male connection is set into the M/cylinder grommet and where that is located (under a steel vertical bulkhead on the Mendeola suspension) it's going to be a pita to loosen the master cylinder bolts, more it forward a skosh hopefully leaving the hard the lines attached to be able to get to replace the grommet. Then it's on to installing the fan oil cooler, stat, remote filter and lines etc.

Last edited by Alan Merklin

I just took a half hour and looked through this amazing build thread Alan. I have somehow missed this until now and am blown away by this build. I love it, Alan. If this were mine, I would be tempted to buy the Raby 2270 type 4 build that has been listed on Samba for the last year or so. It is a new in crate Raby build that the owner bought and never used. He started at $20K and is now asking $14k and I would guess might sell for even less. Having messed with a type 4 build believe me, the $14k price for a new Raby engine is a steal. Loved catching up with this build Alan, is the car sold? I see at the beginning of the build you were looking for a buyer.

I have been tempted to buy this engine and hold on to it for a future project. Still may.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/cl...etail.php?id=2535369

Raby 2270 1

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@IaM-Ray posted:

You should get it Stan.  But then the wrenching would pause .  

There’s a story here, but I’ll spare you.

I should have had a big T4 15 years ago, but I was committed to T1, by nature of not wanting to redo the exhaust, etc.

That was 3 exhausts and at least that many engines ago - many years spent trying to replicate what a T4 does just by its nature.

Danny P’s engine comes closer than any T 1 I’ve ever been in. I’m hopeful my latest try comes close (enough).

T4 is the ultimate buy once/cry once deal.

Last edited by Stan Galat

Outlaw Project: I lucked out changing out the master cylinder inlet port grommet, I removed the two mounting bolts pushing the M/Cyl forward 1/2" with all lines still attached to be able to access the grommet.  Speedster is now wired and not a single popped fuse, the only thing I had to fix was the high beam indicator light. It's good to always use Greg's - VMC harness & knowing wire colors by sight is a plus too. Trimmed and braze the lower corner edges of the new gas tank to clear the fiberglass frunk sidewalls. I tested the brazing with an ounce of lacquer thinner into the tank so if it had a pin hole leak the lacquer thinner evaporates quickly and doesn't leave a flammable residue like gas does, it was A - Ok.  Next I sleeved the shift rod in a plastic tube just forward of the shift coupler before sealing the area in black 1" expandable foam as the rear of the center tunnel that was open. Also made an access port to be able to view the OEM VIN chassis number, fabricated 11 gauge aluminum vertical seat area panels and seam seamed to seal out water. Tomorrow ( 84 degrees here ) I'll wire and plumb the engine, then check on the driver's side roll / hoop bar that's been at the powder-coater for a month now. Then it's on to installing the carpeting.

Last edited by Alan Merklin

“It's good to always use Greg's - VMC harness & knowing wire colors by sight is a plus too.”

Wait a minute…….   I thought you once told us you were “color-blind”.   Boy, those cataract fixes must do wonders for yah!   😉

Never said I was color blind, I am shade color blind...depending on the lighting..... blues and purples, greens and browns, browns and black are difficult to distinguish unless I have a strong light and use a white index card behind the wires to be able to tell the difference...... it works ~

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