Built fuel line today

Wow, Will - looks more like a real 356 engine when you do that.  Super-nice!

Makes my el-cheapo rubber hose look downright, well......el cheapo (at least I ran the el cheap rubber hose behind the fan shroud and elevated it).

Excellent work there.  I've done a bunch of Swedgelock fittings in my time, so might have followed something like this.  I thought of hard plumbing the fuel lines, but wimped out and used rubber hose.  Good rubber hose, but still . . .

I have something that you, or someone might appreciate, but to use would require banjo fittings.  Doable, but a bit of a pain.

These are misc parts left over from my two 356's. All the other parts of said cars and by far the more interesting parts, are all long gone.  You will see here a behind-the-shroud fuel line, as well as some other stuff.  The pistons/cylinders are from my '61 S90, and they are the aluminum alloy fined and the nickle flashed and dimpled cylinders.  PS: if anybody wants any of this stuff, or knows somebody who would, pls say.  Any/All could be made available for the cost of shipping.  My understanding is that the barrels, used as they are, would not be good for anything as-is since they could not be re-seated by new rings, and cannot be refinished.  But, they could be bored out and re-sleeved with cast iron inserts, which would then seat properly with new rings.  The Al cooling fins are pretty cool.  Also, I have one seat from the old '56 A Coupe, very ratty, but complete.  I suppose this is a highjack -- sorry . . .

PS, your workmanship on this engine is exquisite, BTW.

Hi Will.....I did mine almost the same way and it looks really clean !  Some guys install a pressure regulator where your "Tee" is. One thing I found a little difficult to do was when I went to install the 17mm nut on the top right to hold the engine, I had difficulty getting my hand in there. So I removed the fuel line to regain access, then re-installed the fuel line. Never-the-less.....It still looks great and Tidy !    I just looked at at another guys engine today and he's using nearly the same metallic grey/silver paint with Black powder coated trim......Very impressive looking !    Nice job Will..........Bruce

Will

Nice job! I like the fuel pressure gauge install too.

ElFRAZOO,

Those barrel parts might make cool clocks or spot lights.

Pete

That engine is way too pretty to actually get oily and nasty.  It should be mounted on a nice stand and exhibited in your living room.

Looks good Will.  Fingers crossed!

very nice for sure

Thanks guys, for the encouragement. It's fun doing these projects but I realize that O.C. is now my middle name. The deeper I get, the deeper...I get. No turning back now!

El Frazoo, no hijack-no problemo. I'm using a banjo fitting on the bottom of the oil canister/breather thingy as there's precious little room between the top of the Vintage Speed linkage and the bottom of the canister. That's next week's project, when the fittings show up.

Has anyone here read Cannery Row by John Steinbeck? In it, Mac asks Doc (think Al or Stan) why a fellow named Frenchy (think me) is still working on his boat. Frenchy has changed it multiple times from a double ended sloop, to a schooner to you-name-it. Doc answers that Frenchy is afraid of the ocean, he never intends to sail, he just loves working on the boat and the idea of sailing.

I sure hope this isn't going to be my story...it's only been 5...make that 6 months...

Lol.  Will, you sound like me. Building is the fun part!

I am getting closer to needing an engine, will you build me one?     Lol.    Looks great!!

Will: you are most definitely not afraid to sail, and you are building a cutter. That is most excellent, sir.

Regarding the engine mount nut on the (1-2, PS, left) side top of the engine/transaxle. VW put a bolt on the starter with flats to make it captive in the starter, and a nut on the engine side. On the 3-4, DS, right side they put a captive nut in the case, and used a regular bolt hex-head bolt.

I always found the 1-2 side to be a bear to tighten on my car. IM's move the engine forward-- and I run a DTM shroud, so there's a hose, etc. right where my hand wants to go. Aircooled Bruce rightly pointed out that there may be an issue where the "tee" is located for the guage interfering with this as well.

I resolved the issue on my car by installing a second captive nut on the 1-2 side of the engine case, and using a standard hex-head bolt for the starter. I'm not sure how that would work with a stock VW starter, but with an IMI gear reduction starter, you need a hex blot anyhow.

This one small thing greatly simplified engine installation and removal, which is no small thing when you're an OCD  frustrated aviation mechanic wanna'-be.

Will, if you ever take that engine someplace for service, you're going to be paying Porsche hourly rates.

Wouldn't Greg (Wolfgang) be the SOC's Frenchy? Just saying.

That's what I was thinking.  Sorry Wolfie. 

Will;

That's great work! I'm saving the thread, in my dream file.

Art

El Frazoo;

I'd take one of the cylinders. BUT, if I'm getting in the way of anyone's real project, I'd back out.

Art

Same comment as Art! I'd take a cylinder and piston.  

Let me know what I owe for shipping to 95037.

Ted

OK, hadn't thought just one cylinder/piston would be of any interest to anybody.  What would be cool would be to see the parts used in a build.  And I do not even know if they could be used in a VW, being actual P parts?  I'd have to believe that those alloy cooling fins would be the bomb in a hot build, if it could be worked out.  But they are only for a 1600 engine.  I'll keep these offers in mind.