Burned out 356 Replica

This certainly looks like Alan Hais's (MD) former ride, a couple of years ago it was at an Insurance Salvage Auction , how it got to the west coast minus the Salvage title.............?

Fuel filter in the engine bay?

I hate seeing pictures like that...

I carry two fire extinguishers for just this event. 

I'm new to the air cooled, what kind of preventative measures can we employ?

Make sure the fuel lines are secure so they don't rub against anything, fuel filter is out of the engine compartment (and secure) check hoses at the begining of every driving season (and monthly during) and replace any piece that looks like it's ageing or turning hard, replace all the rubber hose every 2 or 3 seasons. If you use the stock mechanical pump, check that the fittings aren't coming loose. Use common sense. Anyone have anything else to add?

There are several things you can do to increase your efficiency if the worst happens, and you experience a car fire:

Check the extinguisher for full charge periodically and practice removing it from the bracket.  Go through the steps to discharge the extinguisher, i.e., point at base of fire, stand the recommended distance from the base of the fire, pull the pin or retaining device;

Determine how your engine cover/deck lid opens, and plan how you will keep it open if the source of fire is in the engine compartment.  When I had a rear-engine replica, I kept an old pair of gloves next to the extinguisher.  Be aware that you will be struck stupid when you see/hear/smell the first signs of fire.  The more practice and planning you do beforehand will help with fire suppression.  Shooting an extinguisher at a closed deck lid is ineffective for an engine fire.

Unless you're much different than the average guy, your response to your first car fire won't be a thing of beauty, despite what you may later tell friends and family about your Cool Hand Luke attitude.  That's why practice can be a real help.

Forewarned, etc, etc.

Have the proper amount of insurance, get out of the burning car and stay out of traffic, don't be a hero, call the fire dept, and then call your insurance agent. Unless your engine cover will stay open by itself you'll be trying to open the lid, put the pin in the hinge, and then using your fire extinguisher on the now raging inferno. All the while trying to keep from getting third degree burns on your hands and arms to save a fiberglass replica that you can have rebuilt in a few months just like the one you lost.

I've got a lot of hours invested tinkering with my car and thousands of dollars in upgrades but I've also got enough insurance to fully cover my losses.

I love the gloves suggestion. I need to add the hose inspection to the calendar. Keeping the speedster "clean" on the outside and, more importantly, on the inside. I'm getting my VW manual soon. I'll get under my VS to get a baseline. Thanks for the valuable insights!

It's pictures like that that make me think about getting a blazecut fire suppression, along with a fire extinguisher behind the seat.  Cool video of a bus engine fire test on youtube.

.....you will be struck stupid when you see/hear/smell the first signs of fire.

Yes that is right, I was driving a speedster when it coughed through a carb, I looked in the rear view mirror the Hibachi was going strong I pulled off the road and at the same time Maryland Hwy Dept truck was coming from the opposite direction three guys jumped out of the truck I pulled the deck release another guy lifted the deck lid and a third shot the extinguisher with minor deck lid, fuel lines and air cleaner element damaged....ended up being a bend push rod caused the carb issue.

Adding a marine fireport to the bulkhead may prevent a flash and injury as well as access to the engine compartment without opening the deck lid.  Ensure your extinguisher has the capacity to flood the entire compartment.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy...--fire-port--3734464

"I'm new to the air cooled, what kind of preventative measures can we employ?"

In addition to ALWAYS carrying a fire extinguisher (in a place where it is VERY easy to get to in a panic) you could also consider installing a BlazeCut fire suppression system in the engine compartment.

http://www.blazecutusa.com

I installed one (they're under $100 for one to fit a Speedster) and ran it around the back of the fan shroud so it is close to each air cleaner and the fuel line between carbs.

I don't have a photo of that handy, but I also installed one in my gas heater bay - the BlazeCut is the big, white tube going around the bay.  It is fully automatic - nothing to pull or activate.  When heat near it melts the plastic tube, the pressurized fire suppression liquid is expelled and puts out the fire.  At the left end of the tube in the photo is the gauge (looks just like the gauge on a regular fire extinguisher).

Chilling. I agree with everyone else. Save yourself first. Skin and fire do not mix. It is horrific. I have seen the pain and expense of burn wounds this via a family member. It is rough!

Here is Blaze cut on Amazon - best deal I could find. Thanks Gordon - great tip.

https://www.amazon.com/BlazeCu...p;keywords=blaze+cut

Tnx~ Will order one for the Outlaw project.

Nice job, again, Gordon, on that heater install. Very pro.

I have done the following to minimize the risk of fire:

Hard fuel lines in back 

Went to a rotary fuel pump and got rid of the pressure regulator (had one fail, flooding engine compartment with fuel)

Auto open engine lid (try lifting the lid when there is a fire back there!)

Fire suppression system (BlazeCut)

Halon fire extinguisher 

Tundra disposable fire extinguisher 

Cole Thompson- posted:

I have done the following to minimize the risk of fire:

Hard fuel lines in back 

Went to a rotary fuel pump and got rid of the pressure regulator (had one fail, flooding engine compartment with fuel)

Auto open engine lid (try lifting the lid when there is a fire back there!)

Fire suppression system (BlazeCut)

Halon fire extinguisher 

Tundra disposable fire extinguisher 

I'll add one more very important safety feature, if you have an electric fuel pump:

http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

This device allows the fuel pump to run only if there is a tach signal from the ignition.

If your engine catches fire (and the engine stalls) and you don't turn the ignition key to the off postion before you get out of the car the fuel pump will continue to pump fuel to the carbs.

This happened to my IM about three years after I sold it the first time.  The owner said the fire department had a hell of a time putting the engine fire out.  No surprise, since the fire was being fed by a constant flow of gasoline.

Hey, you soon-to-be Blazecutters!

The tube is reasonably easy to install but is STIFF.  I suppose it would be easier to bend around stuff if it is installed on a warm day or if it has been brought up to 80F or so.

Also, they send along a bunch of small-ish, black, tie wraps with which to tie it down.  Nice, but I thought it looked more professionally done (see my photo, above) to use 3/4" insulated hose clamps (Home depot or NAPA).  Around the engine, I run three hose clamps on the firewall just above the level of the fresh air hole on the firewall, and one more on each inner fender wall.  Looks nice and holds fast, right near the potential flame sources, with no vibration.

I just bought one.  It seems like a no brainer not to have one.

I know I have  a minority opinion on this issue, but I would not install any fire suppression device for which the manufacturer had not sought, and received, accreditation.  Just as I wouldn't buy a hand-held extinguisher that didn't carry an approval from the recognized authorities, be it UL, NFPA, or other licensing authority. 

As I have stated in the past, while I am no great fan of things federal, the Underwriters Lab does an excellent job of testing and certifying all types of new devices to make sure they do what they claim.

If Blazecut or Jogyver or whoever the manufacturer/distributor actually is, wants to have their imported product certified, there is a well-recognized system in place to do just that.  I'm not implying that the product doesn't work, since I have no experience with it, just that I'm skeptical of claims that are not reinforced by testing.

If I remember correctly, the manufacturer states that the installation of his device is not mandated by federal or state law, so certification is not required.

There's also a 6' and 12' version available.  $138 for 6' and $182 for 12'.