Buying Tips?

I am about 3 weeks away from buying my first Speedster, a turnkey
Vintage.
I have some questions that some experienced owners would be wise
enough to share.
I am not a minimalist or someone that wants everything on a Speedster.
I plan on getting the
70hp 1600cc base engine,
trunk carpet,
disc brakes for added safety,
and the CD player.

I was wondering about ...

Vintage factory special exhaust, does this help performance or just
make for a better sound? I have seen an aftermarket exhaust that is
cheaper that looks like a new (2000 era) oval Boxster style.

Dual Carbs, does this help performance or help reliablity in any way?

Is there any need to get the 3:88 transmission with a 1600cc engine?,
does it shift smoother, last longer, any other advanges?

What type engine is placed in Vintage Speedsters? I, II, III, IV?

I am by no means a speed demon but I would like a little extra
horsepower. I do not know what 70hp is to a 1700-1900lb Speedster.
I have been told the standard single carb 1600cc Speedster can break
a hundred in a pinch. I want just enough power to get out of trouble
as fast as I get into it :) .

I am just trying to weed out what I need and what I don't so I might
be able to get other cosmestic and comfort options.

All help and advise appreciated. Thanks!

Most of us would suggest you definately up that engine. A 1600 is a
heck of a reliable engine, but I think the 1776 is the minimum. Yes,
dual carbs are a great performance addition and I feel can only
compliment long term reliability in that the car will run a little
cooler. If you want to make that Speedster a surprise to spank a few
Hondas and older 911s, think about going up to a 2110. Or maybe a
1914. I would suggest you go read the 'Tech' Articles
on 'Performance Engines' at Cal-Look.com. The Speedster is light and
classic, but people don't expect it to scream. A dual carbed 1776,
or better yet, a 1914 or 2110 will smoke. Now if you want a really
stout, torque monster, you may want to consider Jake Raby's Type 4
conversion. JMO.

Coy,
Congratulations on your impending purchase. I'm sure you will be
happy with whatever you select. Mine is a 1776cc single carb with the
3.88 r&p. My performance is adaquate, the engine runs nicely and
returns good mpg (30+ highway). I did not purchase the car new, so I
had to take what it had. Here are my suggestions, based upon my
experience:

1. More engine is better, up to a point. Have a good one built by
Jake Raby, CB or one of the may fine builders out there.
2. Avoid A/C! It will cause you much grief when working on or having
the engine worked on, plus it adds weight and complexity inconsistent
with these raw sports cars.
3. Kirk's special exhaust looks nice (if you like symmetry) and sounds
Ok in an understated kind of way. However, you have to drop it to
open the valve cover to adjust the valves. Bad!
4. Top and tonneau on my car are vynal (never can spell that word). I
think the cloth tops look much nicer.
Just my .02
John H.
2000 VS

MO' Power!
Even if you don't stand on it all the time...Mine came (used)with the
single carb 1776 and 3:88 ratios and it was fine,BUT...
You're goin' to be sittin' in traffic sometime soon and you want to
get 'there' a little quicker and you're goin' to be kickin' yourself
for not goin' a few extra bucks for those all important cc's!

I currently have dual single 40's. They really gave me a lift and
they look real Porsche-y.

I swapped out my exhaust for a tuned S&S and I could feel my power
band increase. It looks like an old 'Abarth' style muffler set up
with one outlet sticking out the right... A single tipped big
oval'smack in the middle, would look great like the old Carrera
style, but I've yet to find one.

Ask if you can have the electronic ignition instaed of what comes
stock.

Double-check all your wiring to lights, horns and plus up the gauge
and fuses...those are the only real 'soft-spots' I've found with my
Vintage...Oh a few missed paint spots... If you get an amp with your
CD ask if there any other ways to install it other than right in the
middle of the trunk...same same with the battery...I wonder if Kirk
looks nto alternative solutions from time to time?

Probably stays with the tried and true, you'll love your Vintage
sportin'car...
Are you going for the classic or the wide-body?

Oh yeah, Vintage uses Type1 V-dubs to the best of my knowledge, but
most engine builders can beef up eitherType1 or 4 depending on your
wallet!

I doubt very much if a single carb 1600cc engined Speedster replica
could get to 100 mph, much less go faster. Performance is relative;
if you're happy with a bread-and-butter boulevard cruiser stick with
the no-guts engine. The 3.88 ring and pinion ratio will allow lower
RPM at freeway speeds, but the "stock" 1600 won't have the moxy
(BHP/torque) to move the car very quickly in the lower gears with the
taller R/P.

Bear in mind that resale value for a replica with mediocre performance
will not be as good and it may be harder to find a buyer.

If there has been one recurring theme on this forum, in the
word's of Tim Allen - it's been, "More power! (arrrh, arrrrh)."
I've never seen anyone complain about having too much HP. I'd
pass on the 1600cc and step up to the 1776cc w/dual carbs as a
minimum. You can go bigger as your budget allows.

There are several of us on the forum with 2110 cc engines (82 x
90.5), built by CB Performance of Farmersville, CA. I have heard no
serious complaints, just the normal initial set-up tinkering,
adjusting, etc. My cost from Vintage was $4650 for my 2110 in March,
2001. Costs will be more or less, depending on options. The
standard 1600 engine cost $2000, when I bought my car. The $2650
upgrade is the best money I have spent, since it makes driving the
car such a kick in the ass. If I had to do it over, I would contact
Jake Raby, a contributor on this list, for a turbo engine. Regards,
Jim

I talked to Kirk just a few days ago and the new version of
his "Special Exhaust" gives the nice "throaty" sound and DOESN'T have
to be removed to adjust the valves.
-=theron

I have a 2001 VS. My advice on the motor is to go as large as your
wallet is deep.I believe every ones budget is different and one can
always learn to cope,until able to get the Firebreathing Raby
Special. Also, ask Kirk about a bigger gas tank, if opting for the
larger motor, unless you don't mind stopping to refuel (often) and
talking to the people that will be surrounding your Speedster.~R

In picking an engine I looked at it this way.....

I was looking for something a little better than stock with maximum
reliability. I am going with a 1600cc w/ dual carbs and performance
haeds from EMPI. Since I'm building my own car I figure I'm gonna
have enough things to debug / tweak in the first summer it's on the
road. And I bought this thing to drive in the summers and tinker on
in the winters. So more power could be something in the future.

Just another angle...


Jerome

Coy,

As a 14 month owner of a VS, here's my perspective. Kirk uses Pat
Downs at CB to build the performance engines. Get the current issue
of Hot VWs or Trends (not sure which one)... the one with several
engine builders in a group cover shot. Pat is on the cover and is
interviewed inside that issue. Call him directly and tell him what
your expectations are and the use and type of driving you plan on,
Talk about your budget, and find the very best combo that works for
you. I like my 1776cc... but any engine is only as good as the
builder, the parts, and the balance of the whole selection of parts.
Jaje Raby and Pat are two names that come to mind. The beauty of a
1776-1835 is that it can cost around two grand less. But don't gp for
an el cheapo 1776..... get a pro to build it. Heck, any JoeBob can
mahe you a 1776, Got a case? Got Pistons... wallah, a 1776. That's
why you see $700 to 900 long blocks in the magazines... and they
aren't worth crap. Parts, good parts, right parts, are the key.

Others... yes a 3:88 is essentail if you hit the freeways. Get a
higher 4th gear too, maybe a .91. Go canvas.... classy and worth it,
get an oil cooler, worth every penny. Good luck!

Jim OKC files: dub u tub

WoW! Great tips! All questions answered! :) Mr. Ward, I may have
seen your Speedster when I worked at the OTA a few months back, HE
Bailey (I was a tollcolector at the Newcastle Gate, lol!); Chickasha,
Lawton, Witchita Falls. If it wasn't yours it was a nice one
anyway. I moved out to California for more pay and alittle warmer
driving conditions. A must for a convertible. I am in San Diego now
and will go up the coast to pick my baby up when she is complete.
Thanks guys, I took alot of notes!

There must be a bunch of guys in the SD area that will take you for a
ride in their cars. It could be a good way for you to see how the
different motor options work and what your needs/expectations will
be. There is nothing better than seat of the pants experience. I
agree with the others, get an engine built by a respected builder and
insist on only quality parts. Welcome to cool world.

Erik's suggestion is a great one Coy. Call Kirk and he will point you to some locals that have VS cars!

You should have hung a closed sign on that Toll Booth that day. I was headed for Medicine Park to catch Jerry Jeff Walker and an ice cold Shiner Bock!


Jim OKC

Hey Coy...Me again.
I just got my car back and even though there is one hinky carb acting up...OOHHH BOOOYYYYYY, Medicine Man Happy!
New Balanced & counter-weighted crank, lightened flywheel, Engle 120 cam, dual 40 Webbers, BigBoy clutch, and a bunch of poly,molly, double-doodle-all-day springs & inards to support more revs...

As posted earlier, if I'd done my homework I'd have saved myself money. I just spent $3200 on upgrading and that doesn't count the dual 40's (one each side) and the S&S exhaust I added month before last.

Boy you guys with the BIG engines must really fly!
MM
WideRidezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz,Yow!